[Dave M]

I'm about to put in a 467 with 540 lb-ft of torque. I think it might be a good idea to get some..........Also, I just bought an after market X-brace. the car never had one since I've owned it. How much will that help? Thanks

Dave

[455TA]

PTFB (Pro Touring F-Body) subframe connectors look like really nice pieces. I have competition engineering SFC on my 80 TA and they work great as well. I will say this, if you do go with a SFC, go ahead and do yourself a favor, if you haven't already, and go to a solid body bushing from PTFB. They help tie it all in with the SFC so the SFC can do their job, instead of fighting 40 year old rubber bushings. I say all this because I just did the PTFB solid bushings in my car and had to cut my SFC that were welded on to do it, and it wasnt a fun job at all. I wish I would have done the bushings before installing the SFC but Hind sight is 20/20.

[Inogame]

I just installed the Hotchkiss Vert stiffening kit. Sub frame connectors and x-brace. I upgraded my exhaust as well so the hotchkiss x-frame accommodates up to 3 in exhaust.
By "just installed", I mean literally on Sat. I did it for the same reason you are thinking about it, I just dropped a 461 in motor.

The subframe connectors can be welded or bolted., we welded the rear and bolted the front. The hotchkiss are very well made and went in much easier than my 50 year old suspension. (that is next on my list)

[Dave M]

That's the same x-brace I bought. Also, I bought Long Branches and a complete exhaust system from RARE. I'll look at the Hotchkiss, PTFB, and the Comp Engineering. I used the PTFB on my 71 and made the mistake of having them welded in. Then needed to remove the fuel lines and take the body off the subframe. That was a major pain. So I won't be welding them in again.

[Dave M]

The CE SFC's don't fit converitbles....Not sure about the PTFB? These BMR's fit, but are pretty expensive.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/b...model/firebird

[JLMounce]

Going to subframe connectors, you must run solid body mounts in the rear mounting locations at a minimum, but you should really do them all.

I like the chassis works subframes myself. They are a bit more expensive, but they provide a front mounting solution that is better than drilling into the frame and bolting, but still allows you to remove the sub-frame if required.

They work on the same premise as a hitch and receiver. You weld a receiver to the subframe, then slide the end of the connector onto that receiver and bolt it in place. In this way, the bolts are not structural, they just immobilize the connector on it's forward position. This also means that you don't have any protruding surfaces below the subframe. This gives you better ground clearance and should you bottom out and drag, you don't risk tearing the connectors out.

If you decide to add more grip and more power to the car, there is a cross brace with integral drive shaft loop that can be added later as well.

https://www.cachassisworks.com/c-530...gm-f-body.aspx

[Dave M]

But will they fit Convertibles without cutting the floor?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[DOC]

I put a set of Comp engineering connectors in the my wifes 69 vert They were bolt in. I did have to cut a notch for a floor pan cross brace and weld in plates where I notched the connectors. Took about an hour to modify them. I run the stock rubber bushings with no squeaks or rattles from the connectors. I have noticed which is nice when I jack up the car, the door gaps do not change at all and I can open and close the door when the car is being jacked up in a corner of the car.

[jwcfbd]

I put Globalwest connectors on my 67 and they made a huge difference in body flex. They are weld ins on the rear and can be bolted or welded up front. The only thing I'm not crazy about is the looks of the front end of the bars as they hang down.
http://www.globalwest.net/firebird-s...1968-1969.html

[JLMounce]

Originally Posted by Dave M

But will they fit Convertibles without cutting the floor?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don't know the specifics of of the floor pan differences between vert and coupes, so I'm not really at liberty to say. If these are the ones that interest you, call first to find out.

[rohrt]

IMO the x-brace does next to nothing, but every little bit helps. I have mentioned before that I place my fingers on the door gap of my convertible driving on a smooth road and just feel the car flexing.

I think the Hotchkiss SFC are the best out there for bolt in application for our convertibles. And IMO the Detroit speed SFC is even better but most work to install.

[XLR8STEVE]

competition engineering connectors notched
caltracs
hotchkis x brace
all aluminum body mounts
i like the way it stiffened up the car

[Tim john]

Another vote for DSE (Detroit Speed and Engineering) sub frame connectors. An excellent engineered solution for the F body. As mentioned, more work involved but the results reflect the effort.

Tim john---

[Dave M]

Thanks everyone. I'm doing the aluminum body mounts and x brace first. I have another post for the mounts. Then I'll do the connectors.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[killakev]

I bought sub connectors - Jeggs brand $125. Check out this link on modifing the subconnector and NOT your floor. This what I am currently installing. Have to say, need more mods than what the article showcases. I will take some pics tonight and post with more explanation.

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/pon-0...ector-install/

Make sure you click on the picture at the top of the article - there are 13 pictures that tell the story!

[killakev]

[ATTACH]461798[/ATTACH
The car without the connectors

]
The connectors cut to clear the floor brace and pan



The front of the rear leaf spring. Shackle still attached since the bolt is frozen to the bushing... of course it is.

.
The 49 year old bushing with the bolt head ground off.



49 yr old bushing and bolt beaten into submission...

[Dave M]

Thanks for sharing!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[killakev]

Other modifications needed. One hole need to be extended in order to line up. An extra piece of metal needed on the other connection point which will be drilled out once the other bolt is lined up.

So see where this is going? I knew that the connector need to be cut to aviod the floor brace but the bolt holes not lining up so badly? I called Jeggs to complain and I got ****....yeah well you know how it goes going to need to modify..blah blah blah. .I'm like really? the bolt holes don't line up? Would the Hotkich line up? or the Competion enginnering? maybe or maybe not




New C-Clips installed.....yeah that wasn't so easy.



An example of how far off the bolt holes are......Don't buy this my friends. I will chug ahead and beat this. Alot of extra work that was not expected.

[killakev]

Let me tell all of you - DO NOT PURCHASE JEGGS BRAND SUB CONNECTORS. What a mess this was. Don't go there, learn from others bad decisions..