[Grand73Am]

If you have a good air compressor, you could buy a $130 pressure blaster from Harbor Freight and sandblast it yourself. I use Premium play sand from Lowes for about $4 a 50 lb bag. Be sure to wear a good dust mask, since you don't want to breathe the silica dust. Also, get a faceshield if you don't already have one.

Then, I'd spray it with one good coat of black epoxy primer, and then 2 coats of semi-gloss black single stage urethane. If you have a local name brand automotive paint supply store, like PPG or Dupont, you can get your supplies there. Then if you need something else, you can get it the same day, as long as it's a week day.

[HoneyHush]

I've used the Tractor Supply tractor and Implement paint on 3 cars now. I like the gloss black on the frame and underside because it shines up so much and is very easy to clean. I have brushed it on and sprayed it on with a cheap airless sprayer from Harbor Freight ....both with excellent results. It's only like 20 bucks a gallon and worked a 100% better than the por-15 for me that I used on my old car. I like the different colors available as well and have done my gas tank in the mf grey and it all has held up extremely well so far after a year so far. I will stick to the Tractor Supply stuff myself....hope this helps ya some in your decision.

[64speed]

I have a sandblasted but when I use playground sand the nozzle gets clogged and it’s a pain. I hadn’t thought of oven cleaner but I will definitely be doing that. Would you do the frame in gloss black or semi gloss? I have all the UNI suspension stuff except for the front upper and lower control arms. Those are the global west knockoffs with y’all upper and lower ball joint installed. The factory control arms front and rear and the hotchkiss springs will be going up for sale sometime mid January.

[Grand73Am]

Originally Posted by 64speed

I have a sandblasted but when I use playground sand the nozzle gets clogged and it’s a pain. I hadn’t thought of oven cleaner but I will definitely be doing that. Would you do the frame in gloss black or semi gloss?

Not all play sand is the same. That's why I mentioned the "Premium" play sand from Lowes. It's uniform in size, so very seldom clogs the nozzle on my blaster. Of course, the hole in the nozzle can't be too small to begin with. I use a 3/16". I've tried sand from Home Depot once, but it had too many larger size chunks in it that did clog my blaster. The Lowes Premium works well though.

I prefer semi-gloss, which looks more like original, and doesn't show imperfections as much as gloss.

[dhcarguy]

X2 on Rustoleum

[HWYSTR455]

I recently had a frame blasted and powder coated, the local shop I used is really good, pay close attention to detail, and if there were any issues with the part/frame, like cracks, poor welds, etc, they call to let the customer know. They are the most expensive blast & coat place in my area and charged $800, just to give an idea.

I've used a lot of POR15 before, one thing you need to ensure is to not shake it, and stir it as directed. If it gets aeriated, it will fail/peel/bubble. But, if done right, once it goes on and cures properly, it never comes off. On frames and other areas not exposed to direct sun light, you don't need to top coat it, but it's a little too shiny for my taste.

Powder coating and painting doesn't get the inside of the frame, so I used the Eastwood internal frame coating and antirust coating(s). They work. 3M has similar products, and have used those before as well, not sure if Eastwood rebrands or not.

It's easy to go crazy when doing stuff like this, but honestly, anything is better than nothing, and usually works for a considerable period of time. I've used a wire brush, etching primers, and engine paint many times and the results are good to very good. It touches up easy too.

.

[Jerry H.]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

I recently had a frame blasted and powder coated, the local shop I used is really good, pay close attention to detail, and if there were any issues with the part/frame, like cracks, poor welds, etc, they call to let the customer know. They are the most expensive blast & coat place in my area and charged $800, just to give an idea.

I've used a lot of POR15 before, one thing you need to ensure is to not shake it, and stir it as directed. If it gets aeriated, it will fail/peel/bubble. But, if done right, once it goes on and cures properly, it never comes off. On frames and other areas not exposed to direct sun light, you don't need to top coat it, but it's a little too shiny for my taste.

Powder coating and painting doesn't get the inside of the frame, so I used the Eastwood internal frame coating and antirust coating(s). They work. 3M has similar products, and have used those before as well, not sure if Eastwood rebrands or not.

It's easy to go crazy when doing stuff like this, but honestly, anything is better than nothing, and usually works for a considerable period of time. I've used a wire brush, etching primers, and engine paint many times and the results are good to very good. It touches up easy too.

.

I've cleaned, blasted and painted a couple of frames but for $800 and the quality of a powdercoated frame that is the route I would take. By the time you figure all your paint, materials, etc. plus if you figure your time for anything I think you come out ahead.

Broaden you search for blast and powdercoat shops somewhat and I think you should find someone who will do you a good job at a reasonable rate.

[64speed]

I’m gonna give it a try blasting it with my blaster and the recommendations I have received on the sand. Once that’s done I’m going to exopy prime it and brush on the rustoleum professional grade black. I would love to have it blasted and powder coated but not only is money working against me but time is too. I can only keep it three weeks most and they want it back sooner than that if possible. I wasn’t expecting all these paints to be as high as they are. I figured 50 maybe 75 dollars a gallon but the cheapest I can find por 15 around here is 130 a gallon! That’ll buy you a lot of rustoleum ha ha. I know it’s the cheap way out but Santa and bodywork and time limit have all conspired against me. I never would have thought to prime it if not for this thread though I would have just slathered it on. As far as the inside of the frame my buddy has one of those nozzles you hook to an aerosol can so I am gonna rubberize undercoat the inside of the frame

[Grand73Am]

Originally Posted by 64speed

As far as the inside of the frame my buddy has one of those nozzles you hook to an aerosol can so I am gonna rubberize undercoat the inside of the frame

Frankly, down in the South where we are, the frames don't have a significant rust problem. I just blast 'em good on the outside, and maybe a little on the inside on the front and rear ends of the rails where I can get to, blow the sand out real good, and just paint everything I can reach. No real need to try to get all the way inside the frame. As long as you blow out any dirt and sand, it's not going to rust from the inside out in our part of the country. So that would save you some time, effort and money for material.

[hdinch]

When I took my frame off I used sanding discs, took a little time but got the frame to bare metal then did the POR 15 prep and paint. It turned out decent.
That was fairly inexpensive and a good winter project.

[carcrazy]

I used Zero Rust on my 67 several years ago and it has held up well.

[J.C.you]

.....eastwood rust encapsulator is the best I have used. You can topcoat if you want over the eastwood without resanding. POR 15 tends to peel off on non rusty parts.

Just did my 65 goat frame this weekend.

[72pontiac]

Originally Posted by J.C.you

.....eastwood rust encapsulator is the best I have used. You can topcoat if you want over the eastwood without resanding. POR 15 tends to peel off on non rusty parts.

Just did my 65 goat frame this weekend.

looks nice. that's all I would need to be happy.

[J.C.you]

Originally Posted by 72pontiac

looks nice. that's all I would need to be happy.

Yeah the Eastwood is satin and is close to oem. It's about 140 per gallon. Takes about 3/4 gallon to do the entire frame, suspension, rear spraying with a gun.
That frame is top coated with a uv resistant trailer paint, gloss enamel.
Have about 200bucs in materials in that application with topcoat.

[JC455]

I've had pretty good luck with Rustoleum. It's available in a spray can or quarts. You can spray it, roll it, brush it, etc.- Dries smooth and level.
It's available in gloss and satin... can be touched up easily IF it requires touch up, and.... it's pretty inexpensive.

[Skip Fix]

I've had good luck with SAcrete's Playground sand in my gravity fed cheapy blaster. EVen with an average size home compressor tough paint/rust prevention goo is tough for it to get off though.

[convgto]

I use the play sand from Lowes in my harbor freight pressure tank blaster, l always sift the sand thru window screen then works great, takes only a few minutes extra to sift. Zero rust then I mixed gallon gloss and a gallon of flat tractor supply tractor paint, perfect sheen to me.

[Marv]

I had the frame on my '62 blasted and then did the KBS Coating three-layer process. It was awesome - a glossy black that I could hit with a hammer and it wouldn't chip off. I actually brushed it on and, because it self-etches, it levelled out with no brush marks.

If I had my way I'd cool my heels. save my money up and do the job properly - get the frame blasted to give you the best substrate to work with. Can you get blasting garnet where you are? Many media blasters in Australia don't work with sand due to the danger of silica inhalation, and use garnet, which can be re-used.

I've done a transmission and suspension items with garnet and it rocks. Ha ha.

[leeklm]

I did mine with epoxy primer from SPI. https://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/

I am a100% paint novice, used an elcheapo gun from harbor freight, and it looks great after 3 years. I did the frame, inner fenders, suspension, diff, core support,etc.

The local sand blaster charged me something like $200 or $250 to do it all, and was well worth it!

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[70GS455]

I used MasterSeries moisture-cured urethane

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