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  #61  
Old 02-07-2018, 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by tom s View Post
Your lucky you can get by with the 100,you have to be way over 11-1 if the block has been decked and any over bore.Tom
the block has not been decked but it is .040 over

i dont know the actual comp ratio but it runs very well on 100 octane race gas

  #62  
Old 02-07-2018, 02:03 PM
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With 100 octane, at WOT, I hear a crackling sound, which I assume is pinging. I don't know the details of my engine, other than block, heads, and mild build circa 1991.

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Your lucky you can get by with the 100,you have to be way over 11-1 if the block has been decked and any over bore.Tom

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1965 Pontiac GTO
455/469 w/ #48 Heads, '65 Tri-Power
9.25:1 CR
Stump Puller Cam
Muncie M22W 1st-2.56 2nd-1.75 3rd-1.37 4th-1.00
3.55 Rear Differential
Front: 225/60R15 Height: 25.6"
Rear: 275/60R15 Height: 28"
  #63  
Old 02-07-2018, 02:27 PM
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After 62 posts, either lower the idle speed, reduce cyl. pressure, reduce cyl. temp., all the above, or raise octane.

  #64  
Old 02-07-2018, 04:44 PM
commanderpilot commanderpilot is offline
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Originally Posted by Navy Horn 16 View Post
Why not just buy 100LL and mix it at 30%. WAY cheaper.

I don't trust additives at all. You don't really know what they are putting in it, and all you know it is that is making your gas less volatile.

Commanderpilot:
Hate to say it, but the availability of 100LL is hanging by a thread due to EPA's pressure and the fact that the only source for the tetraethyl lead is a single manufacturer in Europe. It's become a "boutique additive." Believe me, piston powered plane owners are very concerned about this because burning anything else would require FAA approval (assuming the refiners come up with a no-lead 100 octane fuel). Nobody is likely to go through that given the high cost to certify a new fuel and the (relatively) low demand for the 100LL to begin with. I believe it accounts for only 2% of all gasoline sales in the USA.

  #65  
Old 02-07-2018, 06:23 PM
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After 62 posts, either lower the idle speed, reduce cyl. pressure, reduce cyl. temp., all the above, or raise octane.
X2 Wade!

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  #66  
Old 02-07-2018, 11:20 PM
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After 62 posts, either lower the idle speed, reduce cyl. pressure, reduce cyl. temp., all the above, or raise octane.
X3....might I add tighten up the squish, might be easy as some thin head gaskets.

Attempting to be a fuel Alchemist can have disastrous results during the learning curve.

  #67  
Old 02-07-2018, 11:35 PM
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Speaking of squish ... I am at about .043 ... .004 in the hole and the .039 Fel-Pro gasket. I had wanted to be about .035 .... is there a gasket option to lose a few .001s without going to solid copper?

  #68  
Old 02-07-2018, 11:38 PM
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Originally Posted by wbnapier View Post
With 100 octane, at WOT, I hear a crackling sound, which I assume is pinging. I don't know the details of my engine, other than block, heads, and mild build circa 1991.
A "lean miss" can sound like that sometimes. Once had a holley 450 cfm carb on my GTO ( when I was 17) ... at about 4000 rpm it would start crackling. Luckily I corrected the situation before I melted a piston.

  #69  
Old 02-08-2018, 12:00 AM
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Originally Posted by dataway View Post
Speaking of squish ... I am at about .043 ... .004 in the hole and the .039 Fel-Pro gasket. I had wanted to be about .035 .... is there a gasket option to lose a few .001s without going to solid copper?
Cometic MLS, not cheap, your close enough from what I know.

  #70  
Old 02-08-2018, 12:13 AM
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Originally Posted by dataway View Post
A "lean miss" can sound like that sometimes. Once had a holley 450 cfm carb on my GTO ( when I was 17) ... at about 4000 rpm it would start crackling. Luckily I corrected the situation before I melted a piston.
How did you correct it? I had a dyno test done and I was a little lean at WOT, so I increased the jetting. I redid the dyno thing and no change. Strange. Timing is 12 initial 32 total.

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1965 Pontiac GTO
455/469 w/ #48 Heads, '65 Tri-Power
9.25:1 CR
Stump Puller Cam
Muncie M22W 1st-2.56 2nd-1.75 3rd-1.37 4th-1.00
3.55 Rear Differential
Front: 225/60R15 Height: 25.6"
Rear: 275/60R15 Height: 28"
  #71  
Old 02-08-2018, 08:56 AM
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Not saying that is definitely your problem ... it was obvious in my case that the carb was too small .... installed a larger carb and was done.

The sound is actually a bit more like you would imagine a .22 caliber machine gun might sound.

Lean enough to cause a lean miss would have surely been spotted on the dyno so I doubt it's your problem.

  #72  
Old 02-08-2018, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by dataway View Post
Not saying that is definitely your problem ... it was obvious in my case that the carb was too small .... installed a larger carb and was done.

The sound is actually a bit more like you would imagine a .22 caliber machine gun might sound.

Lean enough to cause a lean miss would have surely been spotted on the dyno so I doubt it's your problem.
Not the carb too small. Carb just wasn't jetted/calibrated right for the application. Carb too small and engines run like they have govenors. Runs fine, just wont rev high and make power. Like the difference between running a 2bbl and 4bbl.

Clay

  #73  
Old 02-08-2018, 11:58 AM
wbnapier wbnapier is offline
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Originally Posted by dataway View Post
Not saying that is definitely your problem ... it was obvious in my case that the carb was too small .... installed a larger carb and was done.

The sound is actually a bit more like you would imagine a .22 caliber machine gun might sound.

Lean enough to cause a lean miss would have surely been spotted on the dyno so I doubt it's your problem.
Thank you for the reply. I've been struggling with compression / octane issues. The previous owner doesn't remember / have the engine build details, and I am new to the automotive hobby. The only thing I know for sure is that on 91 octane the engine diesels substantially, which doesn't happen on 100 octane. The sound of engine pulling is better with 100 octane as well. I don't know what really pinging sounds like, and I am unsure what the crackling sound at WOT is.

On the dyno, I was 1 point lean at WOT. We up-jetted the end carbs, and it didn't move the number. We also advanced the timing from 12/32 and the hp / torque didn't change. All this is contrary to accepted doctrine.

One day, I may pull the engine, re-gasket, aluminum heads, etc... It's just so expensive, so I just pay $9 / gallon in race gas until then.

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1965 Pontiac GTO
455/469 w/ #48 Heads, '65 Tri-Power
9.25:1 CR
Stump Puller Cam
Muncie M22W 1st-2.56 2nd-1.75 3rd-1.37 4th-1.00
3.55 Rear Differential
Front: 225/60R15 Height: 25.6"
Rear: 275/60R15 Height: 28"
  #74  
Old 02-08-2018, 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by "QUICK-SILVER" View Post
Not the carb too small. Carb just wasn't jetted/calibrated right for the application. Carb too small and engines run like they have govenors. Runs fine, just wont rev high and make power. Like the difference between running a 2bbl and 4bbl.

Clay
Yep, that sounds right ... when I think about it CFM limit is just that, can still be rich or lean. The 450 CFM carb was probably jetted leaner as it wasn't a "performance" carb by any means.

However .... throttle response was fantastic

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