[CraigGT37]

My son had that happen to him while he was driving his 92 Eagle Talon. It happen at 60mph, smashed windshield, caved in his roof,(looks like someone danced all over it), and lifted the top corners of both fenders.

[NeighborsComplaint]

Originally Posted by TedRamAirII

Check with Rick Grisham, Madison,Il. on Facebook, has a hood.

He has it with him at a swap meet today. Talk about bad timing!

[GT182]

Now I see the damage in a better light NC. That's a shame, and it sure made a mess. I didn't realize there was no safety "ear" on it like on my 66. You're lucky it didn't take out the windshield.

Repo parts suck as most won't make them like the original part just to save money. It's one reason I'm careful on what I buy for repo parts. I've bitched about them and sent them back a time or two. Catalogs should warn us about what's correct and what isn't.... I mean it should be mandatory, no questions asked. Tell us it's made right or it's not. No guessing on our part. The main one that comes to mind is repo bucket seat upholstery. Pictures don't always tell the truth.

[uttergto]

Originally Posted by NeighborsComplaint

I had made an appointment for today to have the body shop repair my radiator core support. I bought new bushings and the reinforcement plates to do this and planned on getting done last year but the shop took forever and I ran out of time and had to get car in storage for the winter or forfeit my spot. The nose of the car settled some last year, I noticed my door gaps getting tighter at the bottom and got in as soon as possible. I decided also to have the underside of the hood media blasted and painted while it was there. I had installed an insulation pad to hide the mess from the prior owner (undercoat over rust) and thought a clean start would be good.

I always check the hood, grabbing both scoops and giving a heave to make sure it is closed and lock engaged. I had been driving it around with no issues other than it was taking 2 men and a boy to open the hood since the core support dropped some. I had opened the hood since last drive but I think you can guess where this is going ... carnage.

Hard 1-2 shift, top of 2nd and the hood springs up like a jack-in-the-box. I laid on the binders in hopes of inertia throwing the hood down, but no such luck. I heard both hinges snap and I'm looking through the little viewport GM provided me under the open hood.

Hood is buckled on both sides at the hinges, both back corners peeled up like a ski-slope and a huge oil can in the middle of the hood. No fender, cowl or windshield damage other than 2 small paint chips. Body shop says no bueno on repairing the hood, so I have to look for a replacement. No steel replacements available and body shop says VFN (8-10 weeks lead time) or Glasstec only as a last resort, better off with a used hood. I see a couple in the classifieds and am chasing a couple others through the body shop's suppliers.

Be careful with the hood hinges, be sure they are not loose. Many of the reproduction hinges are not made well. Some I have encountered do not have the rivet tails swaged properly and sometimes pop out.

[NeighborsComplaint]

My hinges were destroyed, but to their credit, the hood stayed on and did not smack the fenders cowl or windshield. I had bought them a while back from Tamraz. Body shop is ordering replacements from NPD (the better Goodmark hinges with correct grey phosphate finish).

I threw in the towel on used hoods. The body shop has checked all their sources and is ordering a bolt on style fiberglass hood from Glasstech at my direction. Lead time is 3 weeks. The couple of used hoods I have seen are rusty and just need more work than I think they are worth. The body shop has used GlassTech before with good results and I am also installing a pair of flush hood locks for an additional measure of safety in addition to the having GlasssTech cast-in my original striker.

In the interim, I have started a couple other projects including sound deadener, new package tray and a stereo install. I picked up a basic Pioneer CD/Bluetooth kit with speakers, kick panels with 6.5 speakers, 1" component tweeters with crossovers and a low profile amplified sub. The stereo will go in the glovebox and the sub under the passenger side front seat.

I also repaired my dash and refinished the top. The prior owner had drilled holes in the steel top and also right through the speaker grille to mount a Monster Tach. That was a botch of a job without removing the windshield. I just didn't want to take a chance having someone pull the glass.

Here's the insulation job (double layer at trans and headers):

[OCMDGTO]

Looks good NC! Good info on Glasstech, I've been debating a glass hood myselfand. What are you using for the insulation?

[NeighborsComplaint]

I used this material:

Frost King Foam and Foil Duct Insulation
Insulates Aluminum or plastic duct work.
Insulates all types HVAC Ducts
Conforms to sharp corners
Stops vibrations
Seals seams and screw heads
12" x 15" Roll $18.77 per Roll

4 rolls did the floors, under the back seat and also the package tray.

[Baron Von Zeppelin]

Probably too late now - and I'm in North Carolina

Have a good 71-72 hood still wearing factory paint.
Paint is worn thin and weathered - but eliminates any surprises.
Will need a light media blasting underside , or sprayed with some of the modern marvel evapo-rust.

Also have a good 71-72 core support
Needs minor repair at lower mount area - on the battery side.
And light media blasting

Last good 71-72 hood I had , was sold to a PY member , I believe in NY.
Built a crate from old pallets and shipped via Forward Air.
Approx 10-11 years ago.

[indymanjoe]

Originally Posted by NeighborsComplaint

I used this material:

Frost King Foam and Foil Duct Insulation
Insulates Aluminum or plastic duct work.
Insulates all types HVAC Ducts
Conforms to sharp corners
Stops vibrations
Seals seams and screw heads
12" x 15" Roll $18.77 per Roll

4 rolls did the floors, under the back seat and also the package tray.

I used the same and am very happy with the results.

[se428bandit]

NeighborsComplaint, if your interested in selling your original hood. I need to sheet metal to do some repair work in front of the scoops on my '72 hood. If your interested send me a PM.

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Originally Posted by NeighborsComplaint

It has no safety. Single pull of the lever opens the hood.

Is that not the safety catch sticking out on the top right?

A single continuios pull may release the latch (lower left) and draw the safety in. But if just the latch released....should still have to pull the hood release to draw the safety catch in. Like it shows in the picture, latch open with safety sticking out.

Clay

[NeighborsComplaint]

Originally Posted by "QUICK-SILVER"

Is that not the safety catch sticking out on the top right?

A single continuios pull may release the latch (lower left) and draw the safety in. But if just the latch released....should still have to pull the hood release to draw the safety catch in. Like it shows in the picture, latch open with safety sticking out.

Clay

Yes it functions that way but is not independant of the hood release like most fail safe latches.