[chiphead]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

Doesn't matter what kind of rocker you have, from the stud to the pushrod on the rocker isn't where the ratio is changed for 1.5 to 1.65 or 1.7, it's towards the spring side the ratio changes.

.

Wait wait.... This made the refrigerator bulb in my head come on. If you look at the pushrod cup on a 1.5 vs 1.65 HS rocker, the pushrod cup moves toward the rocker stud on the 1.65. So the rocker ratio does change on the pushrod side. If it changed on the valve side, the rocker tip could run off the top of the valve when the ratio changed. Wouldn't that mean that 1/2 turn on the polylock would result in different lifter preload depending on rocker ratio?

[johnta1]

I'm fairly certain the valve sounds were not attributed to errors in adjusting the lifters.
So I need to think of what else it could be.

Use a stethoscope or similar device and narrow down to where the noise is coming from?
Could be many other things causing a valve like noise or even other stuff making the valve noise.

Narrowing noise down could make it apparent what the problem is.
(better than all the grasping at straws without being there)

[TAQuest]

Originally Posted by STEELCITYFIREBIRD

Post some pictures of your rocker to valve alignment open and closed, clear and well lit, from a few angles.Closed is the area of most interest.
Then Run a pattern on the valve tip and post up a pic with rocker off.

Coming right up on the first part.
Could you explain the second part?

[TAQuest]

#1 Valves closed.

https://share.icloud.com/photos/0TaX...r_Township,_MI

[TAQuest]

#1 Intake open.
https://share.icloud.com/photos/0mcy...r_Township,_MI

[TAQuest]

#1 Exhaust open.

https://share.icloud.com/photos/0jEI...r_Township,_MI

[TAQuest]

Originally Posted by johnta1

Use a stethoscope or similar device and narrow down to where the noise is coming from?
Could be many other things causing a valve like noise or even other stuff making the valve noise.

Narrowing noise down could make it apparent what the problem is.
(better than all the grasping at straws without being there)

Covers are off. Not running right now.
The noise started after the cam swap. The old cam was smooth idle. This one is the Voodoo 703. Lifter change. Geometry change.
I can't tell where the sound is exactly coming from. Doesn't seem like one spot. It's spread out and on both sides.

[TAQuest]

Originally Posted by STEELCITYFIREBIRD

Post some pictures of your rocker to valve alignment open and closed, clear and well lit, from a few angles.Closed is the area of most interest.
Then Run a pattern on the valve tip and post up a pic with rocker off.

I think I know what you are asking for on the second part. You want me to paint/dye the valve tip and run a cycle so you can see where the roller travel is on the valve tip.

[STEELCITYFIREBIRD]

http://lunatipower.com/Tech/Valvetra...nGeometry.aspx

Trying to see rocker to spring/retainer , valve closed like this:

You may need different pushrods

[TAQuest]

Originally Posted by STEELCITYFIREBIRD

http://lunatipower.com/Tech/Valvetra...nGeometry.aspx

Trying to see rocker to spring/retainer , valve closed like this:

You may need different pushrods

I can check that. That's what the Lunati tech said, may need different push rods.

The other pic you have from the mustang forum for clearance. There's a relief in the rocker arm on these that gives lots of clearance.

[STEELCITYFIREBIRD]

You didn’t change or check springs, correct?

Your PR’s have a length on them?

IDK what is in ball park range for E heads, but someone here will.

[TAQuest]

Here's where the tip is riding the valve stem. Looks really close to where it was with the other cam because you could see the wear mark before I painted it with the pink dykem.

https://share.icloud.com/photos/0rmQ...r_Township,_MI

[TAQuest]

Pushrods are PR726

[STEELCITYFIREBIRD]

Starting at #1 cylinder, rotate the engine until the #1 exhaust rocker just starts to open the exhaust valve. Set the valve lash on #1 intake rocker . Continue rotating the assembly and stop when #1 intake rocker starts returning from full lift. The lash on #1 exhaust can now be set. Continue this procedure for the remaining cylinders following the engines firing order.

Not too bad, but not ideal, should be closer to center. Button up and move on.
You broke cam in on new oil, correct?
So how is your oil pressure??
Did you use all three tubes throughout the process??

[TAQuest]

Originally Posted by STEELCITYFIREBIRD

Starting at #1 cylinder, rotate the engine until the #1 exhaust rocker just starts to open the exhaust valve. Set the valve lash on #1 intake rocker . Continue rotating the assembly and stop when #1 intake rocker starts returning from full lift. The lash on #1 exhaust can now be set. Continue this procedure for the remaining cylinders following the engines firing order.

Not too bad, but not ideal, should be closer to center. Button up and move on.
You broke cam in on new oil, correct?
So how is your oil pressure??

Broke cam in on new oil plus Lucas break in. Changed after break in with same.
Oil pressure is really good. Same as it was before cam swap.

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by STEELCITYFIREBIRD

Starting at #1 cylinder, rotate the engine until the #1 exhaust rocker just starts to open the exhaust valve. Set the valve lash on #1 intake rocker . Continue rotating the assembly and stop when #1 intake rocker starts returning from full lift.

Not 'starts returning from full lift', it is after full lift, and almost closed.

Previous post:

"Begin by rotating the engine over again until the intake valve
reaches maximum lift and is almost all the way back down."

.

[STEELCITYFIREBIRD]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

Not 'starts returning from full lift', it is after full lift, and almost closed.

Previous post:

"Begin by rotating the engine over again until the intake valve
reaches maximum lift and is almost all the way back down."

.

EH.. Aah ...NO!
Ex begins to open= adj intake,
Intake begins to close=adj exhaust

[STEELCITYFIREBIRD]

You got three options... as I see it;
1-Listen to the noise (not me)
2-Get oil everywhere, adjust running (only when all else fails)
3-Run valves once again,
* use/have no tools on polylock while finding zero lash, eliminates any
possible interference
* use correct method (links below) to place lifter on base circle of cam
* determine how much travel/turn on polylock from opening valve to zero lash
and split that for your set point from zero lash, or bottomed (bottomed up is easier and more precise) a third method is with a feeler gauge/plunger bottomed but I won't go there


https://www.hotrod.com/articles/comp...aulic-lifters/

https://www.jesel.com/instructions (btw/I cut and paste a partial post from here to save me time while @ work!)

Time to !

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Originally Posted by TAQuest

https://share.icloud.com/photos/0GA-...r_Township,_MI

Originally Posted by TAQuest

Different angle;

https://share.icloud.com/photos/0Y2q...r_Township,_MI

Originally Posted by TAQuest

#1 Exhaust open.

https://share.icloud.com/photos/0jEI...r_Township,_MI

Things look awful clean/dry. Old style E-heads usually have lots of oil puddled.

In one pic the top corner of that first rocker Looks skint up. The kind of stuff you see when you have clearance problems with some roller rocker and aluminum valve cover combinations.

Just looking
Clay

[TAQuest]

Originally Posted by "QUICK-SILVER"

Things look awful clean/dry. Old style E-heads usually have lots of oil puddled.

In one pic the top corner of that first rocker Looks skint up. The kind of stuff you see when you have clearance problems with some roller rocker and aluminum valve cover combinations.

Just looking
Clay

The car is jacked up a little in the front so the oil all puddled in the back.

I measured the covers and there's 1/4 inch clearance.

Thanks for looking. Wish I had an easy answer to the sounds. One thing, I bet the sounds don't slow me down.