[PAUL K]

Originally Posted by lust4speed

Now here's the frustrating part. I was one of the first in line when the aftermarket HR lifters were introduced. Placed my order and waited a couple months for production to ramp up. Ended up with one set of Comps and one set of Cranes because that was what came in to the local speed shop (back when Summit wouldn't sell to California residents). Both sets were, and are, dead quiet which must be 20 years and many thousands of miles later. Never a problem with either and they were good past 6,500. Fast forward to today and every manufacturer is shooting themselves in the foot and struggling to produce a workable product.

Same situation over here

[64speed]

My machinist assured me today that the lifters were cleaned and prepped per Lunatis guidelines and in his words were just as good as any other unless you want to spend a thousand dollars.

[ponjohn]

Originally Posted by 64speed

My machinist assured me today that the lifters were cleaned and prepped per Lunatis guidelines and in his words were just as good as any other unless you want to spend a thousand dollars.

What brand are the 1000$ lifters?

[JLMounce]

I believe the Crower's are close. Around $800 or so.

https://www.crower.com/lifters/lifte...retro-fit.html

Actually looks like they are just above a grand. Price went up by about $200.00 from the last time I looked.

[Sirrotica]

Straub Technologies has some pretty pricey examples listed on their site:

https://straubtechnologies.com/pontiac-products

I'm not trying to answer for Paul K, he probably has his own examples.

[rohrt]

Comp Cams tips for installing Hyd Roller lifters. Thought it might be of intrest.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=thMhEjniJGg

[lust4speed]

Originally Posted by rohrt

Comp Cams tips for installing Hyd Roller lifters. Thought it might be of intrest.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=thMhEjniJGg

The video is about a 180 from the written instructions currently included with the lifters. The Comp instructions are pretty adamant about leaving the rollers out of the mineral spirits and this guy dunks them. Oh well.

I like the video method better because it always was a pain keeping the rollers out of the mix. Have a set ready to install that were cleaned the old way and think I'll go back and soak the complete lifters.

[tom s]

This might give a indication of who uses Morel lifters!

https://morellifters.com/dealers

[Sirrotica]

Originally Posted by lust4speed

The video is about a 180 from the written instructions currently included with the lifters. The Comp instructions are pretty adamant about leaving the rollers out of the mineral spirits and this guy dunks them. Oh well.

I like the video method better because it always was a pain keeping the rollers out of the mix. Have a set ready to install that were cleaned the old way and think I'll go back and soak the complete lifters.

The Straub site is very adamant about not washing the factory lube off of the rollers. They say it's a special lube and it has a break in formula that is necessary, that regular motor oil doesn't have................

In any cam discussions has anyone ever used a mushroom tappet in a Pontiac application? I ask because I've never seen any reference to them in the Pontiac application. They're supposed to be more durable than a regular flat tappet because of the increased contact area.

[slowbird]

Originally Posted by ponjohn

What brand are the 1000$ lifters?

Jesels are $1600 but they're the best hands down imo and worth it if you're build an all out race engine

[PAUL K]

Originally Posted by ponjohn

What brand are the 1000$ lifters?

Morel and Crane offer a top shelf lifter that are close to 1k and I'm sure a few others have them also as some folks pointed out. However I'm not aware of any "top shelf" hydraulic rollers for our Pontiacs other than Morel offers a step up from their opening price point lifter.

[tom s]

Paul,did you notice that the two upper end pontiac Morels require bushings?Tom

[Tom Vaught]

Originally Posted by slowbird

J*s*l*s are $1600 but they're the best hands down imo and worth it if you're build an all out race engine

I think the opinion of the Mercury Racing Guys might be different:
https://www.mercuryracing.com/why-re...ts-are-limits/

So they went to something a lot better Brian.
https://www.mercuryracing.com/the-va...in-that-could/

There are Drag Race Engines for Enthusiasts and there are engine that need to run at high rpm points without issues for much longer periods of time in other applications.

For Drag Racing, the parts ARE really good for the average racer.
For a durability engine like a Offshore Boat Racer, A Le Mans Racer, or a 24 Hour Track Durability Racer there are better designs vs what the average guy could come up with.

Read the links. Mercury Racing changed their engines from the parts they were using to better parts for a reason.

Tom V.

This is the Street Section where durability of the engine makes a difference.

[67gtospud]

I ordered Johnson short travel hydraulic roller lifters from Butler Performance for my recent 432 build. I let the lifters soak in a small container of brake cleaner for 4-5 hours and pumped the plungers 10-15 times each. Then I let them soak for another hour. I blew them out with compressed air and soaked them again for 3-4 more hours in fresh brake cleaner and cycled the plungers again. Soaked for an additional hour then blew them out. Finally I let them soak In 15-40 oil overnight and cycled the plunger right before install.

I have approx 1500miles on my new engine and I have zero lifter noise cold or hot.

[catc]

Found the parts lying in the oil pan,.......anybody have a thought on what happened first?

[AG]

My theory is since the lifters do not compress at all and act like a solid lifter rather than a hydraulic lifter, mixed with some preload cause stresses high enough to break something. Both new sets I bought from 2017 would not compress at all until I disassembled one set after 100 miles of use, cleaned and reassembled them and then the plungers depressed like they should. The CC instructions supplied with the lifters specifically said to not immerse them in a solvent to clean. Think of adjusting a solid roller with some preload.

[Lee]

Originally Posted by AG

The CC instructions supplied with the lifters specifically said to not immerse them in a solvent to clean. .

Do you have a copy of where that is stated?

I've read the supplied instructions with a few sets in recent years, and this NOT what I read.

https://static.summitracing.com/glob...cca-850-16.pdf

In the link above, the instructions state, "While cleaning, be careful to NOT blow out this grease for this is very vital to initial break-in. Also do NOT clean with aerosol cleaners! "

I've talked with Comp reps about this. The point is to NOT use compressed air to "blow out" on the rollers. That can cause the roller and bearings to experience excessive speed under no load, which can damage the bearings. An aerosol could do the same thing.

I soak them in solvent for at least a few hours. Remove them and let them dry for awhile, then soak them for at least a few more hours in a bucket of oil. I check the rollers coming out of the solvent, and again coming out of the oil, to make sure they are rolling smoothly.

[Steve C.]

Solid roller lifter Pre-Installation:

It is important for all new roller lifters to be washed thoroughly with mineral spirits or parts washing
solvent to remove all assembly grease. After the lifters are cleaned, it is recommended to soak them in
common engine oil to ensure bearing saturation.

https://www.compcams.com/amfile/file...product/26850/

Hydraulic roller lifter Instructions:

1. Lifter Preparation: Remove your new COMP Cams® lifters from the packaging, and clean
the lifters thoroughly in mineral spirits or an equivalent solvent.

https://www.compcams.com/amfile/file...product/26536/


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[TCSGTO]

Originally Posted by catc

Found the parts lying in the oil pan,.......anybody have a thought on what happened first?

That flat needle that’s galled to the wheel and the broken needles got extremely hot. Looks like a ultimately a lack of lube failure. Send the pics to Comp and see what their analysis is.

[tom s]

Steve,your instructions was from 2012,the current one is from July 2019!Tom