[76GrandPrix]

Hi everyone, I just picked a 455 for a new build and noticed the deck surface by #8 has a nick in it right where the head gasket metal ring seals. Its not super deep but my concern is sealing or burning issues. The deck has already been zeroed so i'm not looking to take much if any off. I'm looking for repair suggestions. Thanks

[steve25]

That's right where the head gaskets fire ring seals up the Bore and something will need to be done about it for sure !

May be it can be cast iron pinned and then cut back with a deck mil cut to only have to take off .002" across the whole deck surface.

[track73]

I have tig welded the deck of a 400 small block Chevy and draw filed it flush. I used Ni-rod with the coating chipped off.

[steve25]

That sounds like a good way to go, as even if your only able to get level within.002" or so all will seal up fine!

[PunchT37]

That`s one reason why I don`t zero deck blocks unless I absolutely have to.

[mgarblik]

Originally Posted by track73

I have tig welded the deck of a 400 small block Chevy and draw filed it flush. I used Ni-rod with the coating chipped off.

I would also do this repair method. It will be just fine. I might go just one step further and deck the block again, both sides. Probably .002-.003" will have it looking like new again. That surface doesn't look the greatest in the pic.

[61-63]

Originally Posted by track73

I have tig welded the deck of a 400 small block Chevy and draw filed it flush. I used Ni-rod with the coating chipped off.

X3 that would be the easiest way to fix it. Might even use silicon bronze rod to tig braze it and file it off.

[dataway]

I'd check that bore carefully too. Looks like it's distorted some, see how far down it goes if there is a hump in the bore. Looks like it took a pretty good hit there.

[HoneyHush]

You could probably put some marine grade epoxy in it sand it flat after hard. Especially if you use copper head gaskets with the copper spray. That stuff isn’t coming back out especially with the head bolted down, but I’ve seen the stuff fix holes in intake tracks of cylinder heads that have had 30 lbs of boost on them with no problem.

[surfsama]

Originally Posted by dataway

I'd check that bore carefully too. Looks like it's distorted some, see how far down it goes if there is a hump in the bore. Looks like it took a pretty good hit there.

It could just be the angle of the picture but it sure does look like it's pinched down some in the affected area.

[lust4speed]

Or if you find that you need new pistons just raise the piston pin height .020" and deck the block to eliminate the problem area.

[steve25]

The epoxy use for this repair holds promis, but due to the long term heat that area will be subject to I would use one of the many very high temp ciramic epoxy's that can be had!

[76GrandPrix]

Originally Posted by surfsama

It could just be the angle of the picture but it sure does look like it's pinched down some in the affected area.

It does protrudes slightly into the bore, but it looks like it will have to be bored to .040 to cleanup the minor rust. Thanks for info! I'm leaning towards the welding option and a quick clean deck mill.

[Jay S]

Would a bigger bore (4.41”) cometic head gasket move the sealing area out far enough to miss the nick?

[Cliff R]

Not quite sure what you mean by "deck has already been zeroed" but just glancing at the pic it appears rusty and needing resurfaced anyhow.

Determine how deep the gouge is and see if it's feasible to machine the surface to eliminate the issue.

You can machine quite a bit off of a block before you'll run into issues like the intake not lining up and also needing machined, etc.

In any case that's not a good area to try a weld repair, and forget trying to use any type of epoxy to repair it........

[76GrandPrix]

Hi Cliff, by zeroed I meant that the pistons are level with the deck surface already. My best guess is the knick is .010 deep. The bigger head gasket would be close to the outside of the knick. Possibly machine clean and use a thicker head gasket. Thanks everyone!

[mgarblik]

Originally Posted by Cliff R

Not quite sure what you mean by "deck has already been zeroed" but just glancing at the pic it appears rusty and needing resurfaced anyhow.

Determine how deep the gouge is and see if it's feasible to machine the surface to eliminate the issue.

You can machine quite a bit off of a block before you'll run into issues like the intake not lining up and also needing machined, etc.

In any case that's not a good area to try a weld repair, and forget trying to use any type of epoxy to repair it........

If you decide to go this route, which would be a good repair, you could simply go with a Cometic head gasket with the correct thickness to return everything to proper dimensions. Hard to tell from a pic, but it looks like .030-.040 off the deck to get rid of that divot completely. That's why a tiny weld was recommended.

[61-63]

I will go back to what I said re silicon bronze tig braze to fill that divot. Silicon bronze has a melting point only 400 degrees or so below steel and cast iron; 1700 degrees F I think it is. If you have a friend with a tig it would only take him a minute to lay it in there. Then file it off flat. It will not melt out and once the head gasket and heads are bolted on it has no where to go even were it to try and turn loose, which it wouldn't. JMO

[blueghoast]

My 2cents JB Weld. It's some tuff ****.

GT.