[Ramairnacho]

Originally Posted by Gator67

Started the Vintage Air install. I had a stud welded on the inside of the firewall prior to paint, so hanging the main unit was quick and easy. I plan to run the hoses per the instructions over the top of the inner fender (under the outer fender) though the RH kick panel. Even though the car was originally non-A/C I'll be using A/C kick panels for a cleaner look (no vent knobs, and modded cover on the RH side will hide hoses). I'm also going to install the center vents in the dash like an A/C car.





Interior pieces are mostly all dyed now. Not sure the colors are 100% correct but the dark and light sandalwood hues look great together.



Digital Dakota RTX gauges...was impressed how well they mimic factory design.

As much as I love engine turned TA gauge bezel, I think I'm going to stick with Firebird wood grain. Will make the required holes in my non-A/C non-gauges bezel using a Greenlee punch.

Where did you find that beautiful dash and center console? Is it original or restored?

[HWYSTR455]

Just did a VA install on 442, makes my 3rd.

On that cap where the hoses come thru the firewall, if you use a 2.5-3" bolt for the crossbar, it makes it much easier to install.

Use the EZ Clip hose and ends, you will be glad you did later.

I have a smoothie plate going in my 'bird, and am going to use a 4-port straight manifold. It will be where DSE usually does their's, look on the website under projects for ideas.

I'm going to use non-AC kick panels and retain the fresh air doors.

I used a VA hardline for my heater hose run along the bottom of firewall, and an AN -8 hose with ends. On the fender side, I looped the heater hose to leave some slack, and put the hot valve there.

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[HWYSTR455]

Instead of RTV for the hose/fan cap, I used ribbon seal like used on windshields.


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[HWYSTR455]

DSE car 4 port AC manifold pic.

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[Gator67]

Originally Posted by Ramairnacho

I notices your cluster. Why is there a sticker green on them? And did someone glue the rings on the cluster face.... Be careful trying to drill out holes since clear coat might crack or peel. I was going down that route and realized less stress to find one that had factory holes cut out and a defogg bezel plate cut out.

These are aftermarket gauges from Digital Dakota...just arrived...haven't peeled the stickers off. The rings screw into the gauges, which supports them in the bezel.

I'm using a Greenlee punch for the holes to avoid damaging the bezel...same tool electricians use to punch holes in conduit boxes.

[Gator67]

Originally Posted by Ramairnacho

Where did you find that beautiful dash and center console? Is it original or restored?

I had the Dash redone at Just Dashes. The console is a reproduction. I'll install the metal bracket with rivets, so at a glance, it will look factory.

[Gator67]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

DSE car 4 port AC manifold pic.

Your posts and photos are extremely helpful, thank you!

I've spent a lot of time on the DSE website...amazing stuff!

I thought long and hard about running my lines though a port on the firewall like that. It certainly looks more finished and professional. My reasoning for not using the port is probably flawed...mainly, I felt that there would be 8 additional spots where I could potentially develop a leak. I was also a little concerned about the tight bends in the interior lines off the manifold. Finally, I hadn't fully planned for what else is going to end up on the firewall, and I didn't want to create a problem for myself.

[Gator67]

The upholsterer did a good job mimicking the OEM door panels. It took him 29 hrs...which seems like a lot, but he did start from scratch. I used the Al Knoch reproduction for the lowers...the brackets had to be tweaked a little, but they fit nice, and happy to see the dye Randy had mixed matches the material really well. Now that I look at the photo, I think the mirror adjustment bezel is going the wrong way? I also can't recall whether the pull straps get screwed directly onto the doors or whether they are secured only with the metal reinforcement strap?

[Greg Reid]

I can't answer any of your questions but just want to say that those look great!

[Formulabruce]

I CAN answer it. Its facing forward, which is Not correct...
May not be an easy fix as you'll need 2 more holes as they are offset.
That said; will not be seen .. looks great!

[keith k]

Originally Posted by Gator67

The upholsterer did a good job mimicking the OEM door panels. It took him 29 hrs...which seems like a lot, but he did start from scratch. I used the Al Knoch reproduction for the lowers...the brackets had to be tweaked a little, but they fit nice, and happy to see the dye Randy had mixed matches the material really well. Now that I look at the photo, I think the mirror adjustment bezel is going the wrong way? I also can't recall whether the pull straps get screwed directly onto the doors or whether they are secured only with the metal reinforcement strap?

Those look great, Jeff!

[Formulabruce]

So the pull strap gets screwed to the metal strip on the back, from the back side I recall. ( outer most holes on the strap ends) A through screw attaches it all ( bigger, inner hole on the metal ends of the straps) to the inner door frame through the moisture barrier.

[Gator67]

Thanks for the assists! Another question. Should the opening for the sun visor center support bracket face the front of the car or rearward? Forgot to check before we installed headliner, and don’t want to make a mistake because the small spike will tear it.

[Formulabruce]

Originally Posted by Gator67

Thanks for the assists! Another question. Should the opening for the sun visor center support bracket face the front of the car or rearward? Forgot to check before we installed headliner, and don’t want to make a mistake because the small spike will tear it.

This faces to the rear so a person in a front seat can swing the visor out easily and use to block sun from a side window.

[Gator67]

Originally Posted by Formulabruce

This faces to the rear so a person in a front seat can swing the visor out easily and use to block sun from a side window.

That’s what I thought originally, but most pics I find online show it going the other direction. 🤔

[Formulabruce]

Originally Posted by Gator67

That’s what I thought originally, but most pics I find online show it going the other direction. 🤔

The first gens sure do. My 1970 sets are boxed up, but after looking, it makes sense they face forward as the 69 does.
I was mistaken..

[Gator67]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

Just did a VA install on 442, makes my 3rd.

On that cap where the hoses come thru the firewall, if you use a 2.5-3" bolt for the crossbar, it makes it much easier to install.

Use the EZ Clip hose and ends, you will be glad you did later.

I have a smoothie plate going in my 'bird, and am going to use a 4-port straight manifold. It will be where DSE usually does their's, look on the website under projects for ideas.

I'm going to use non-AC kick panels and retain the fresh air doors.

I used a VA hardline for my heater hose run along the bottom of firewall, and an AN -8 hose with ends. On the fender side, I looped the heater hose to leave some slack, and put the hot valve there.

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On your new set-up with the smoothie cover, where/how do you plan to run your heater control valve wiring?

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by Gator67

On your new set-up with the smoothie cover, where/how do you plan to run your heater control valve wiring?

So on the GTO, which has a smoothie, I will copy that to a degree for the 'bird.

In post 322, that center pic is the heater control valve config. The hose is very stiff, so I created a loop to prevent kinks, and to allow for any future trimming if the end gets boogered. That is a non-smoothie plate install, but will add a smoothie plate in the future.

On my GTO, since the control valve is only 5/8" pass-thru, I took a section of aluminum tubing and jammed it in one end, an JB welded it in there. That prevented me from having to do a loop.

The 'bird I'm doing a straight manifold, will use 90 degree EZ-Clip fittings, and have them go behind the inner wheelwell/fender. Will use the same type of hard line as the 442 & GTO, and route it into that area by where the fan motor was, and probably do a loop for future changes.

VA makes lengths of aluminum AC tubing, that has an AC fitting on one side, and a bubble type flare on the other side. I cut the AC fitting off and flare it for a tube nut, which cleans up the hose from the back of the head. (can see end in pic on post 322).

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[HWYSTR455]

Here's some pics of the GTO valve setup.


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[HWYSTR455]

The wiring on the GTO I ran thru the cowl/fresh air area.

On the 442, I used a leftover hole from the OE AC setup.

On the 'bird, will see when the time comes how I'll run it, but probably with a new, small hole and grommet.

EDIT: You can remove the terminals from the connector, and only have to drill a hole the size of the one wire. Then just put the connector on from the other side.

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