[HWYSTR455]

I see it now, missed that. Carry on...

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[Sirrotica]

The point is that the engineering has already been done, all someone needs to do is use parts that have been matched already. It isn't hard to buy all the parts from a wrecking yard, and replace them onto another vehicle, it is afterall GM parts, going onto a GM car, made by Saginaw, a GM subsidy. How many GM light trucks gave up their 4L80E parts for a classic muscle car? It didn't come on that vehicle, but it surely can be adapted to work on one.

You can end up with the same mess by buying all Wilwood parts, and mismatching them.

If you need an how to article for directions, here it is:

https://bangshift.com/general-news/t...-car-or-truck/

It's not like it has't been done hundreds of times, for decades, with success. Having hung around many wrecking yards for many years, and making conversions work with used parts from a wrecking yard on race cars. Before there was the internet, and aftermarket suppliers at your fingertips. It's not that hard to do, using common sense.

That's the definition of hot rodding, not getting on the net, and BUYING what you need, then bitching that the aftermarket vendor sucks because after you bought all his parts, and you're not getting the results you wanted.

It's hydraulics, and physics, sometimes you have to figure it out. If you want someone else to figure it out for you, then you pay them for figuring it out for you. It's not impossible.

[grivera]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

Just to add, you should be able to increase your vacuum signal at idle with more timing advance. If you go to full manifold vacuum and limit it, it will help a lot.

If that doesn't give you what you want, you can upgrade to a dual diaphragm 9' booster, if you don't mind it not looking OE.

Manual is a very good option if the above all doesn't give you what you want.

My personal opinion, hydroboost has its place, but not on a muscle car. The driver experience kills it for me. Not to mention added complexity, troubleshooting, weight, and appearance.

The order of above suggestions creeps up on the 'problem' resolution and makes sense to approach it in that order. To me, anyway.

I have and do run some pretty 'radical' cams on the street compared to most, have about 11-13", and a dual diaphragm booster works for me.



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I assume you have the tall aluminum fab’d valve covers- if so how is the clearance at the booster?

[turbo69bird]

Originally Posted by 65madgoat

Honestly I would recommend going MANUAL brakes with a Wilwood set up. Easier, simpler, cleaner. AND WORKS! Need more bite? Then change pads. You'd be surprised how good a properly manual setup is.

Absolutely agree.
You don’t see road race cars running power brakes in classes like GT1 , go manual.

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by grivera

I assume you have the tall aluminum fab’d valve covers- if so how is the clearance at the booster?

Yes, and have the new Ames engine mounts, which raise the engine by @ 1". The clearance from cover to booster in the closest area is about 2".

I have fuel rails too, but just need to kind of turn the cover towards the intake during removal and it comes off with no problems.

EDIT: Added a pic of the clearance with the Anchor engine mounts too, but you may have to zoom in.
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[grivera]

This is great Mike, thanks! Any issues removing valve cover?

[76TA462]

Because of low vacuum, use of cannister that didn't solve the problem, and even a vacuum pump for awhile, and still brakes that didn't instill confidence, I contacted Wilwood for my conversion. Speaking with the tech at Wilwood when I ordered thier discs and calipers front and back for the conversion on my 455 76 TA I was advised to go hydraboost since I decided not to go manual. By the way I like both. I bought the Vintage Speed Reaper System (Tallon Hydraulics??) out of MI, and installed it 2017. Wow, seven years already! It came with the Willwood master 260-8556 with 1 1/8 bore size for my application, proportioning valve, and a CNC mounting plate and etc. The install was a direct fit and relatively easy but instead of using the included lines and fittings that needed to be crimped on, I opted for professionally made-to-fit lines from a local hydraulic company. The system has been flawless and a night and day improvement, and great confidence. More sensitive than the original set-up but not an issue. Just my two cents to hopefully help.

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by grivera

This is great Mike, thanks! Any issues removing valve cover?

Sorry I missed this, but no issues removing the cover, as long as you don't get impatient. Like I said, if you lift up slightly and turn the cover lengthwise towards the intake, and then lift up, all is fine.

If you get impatient, worst case, the gasket will get pulled off the cover if you glue it to the cover.


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[imposter]

curious about this is it ok to put a hydroboost on a 4 wheel drum brake car as its a 66 bonneville and no disc's kit avail

[Lemans64]

Originally Posted by imposter

curious about this is it ok to put a hydroboost on a 4 wheel drum brake car as its a 66 bonneville and no disc's kit avail

Hydratech Brake company says not to as per their FAQ'S
Q: I have 4 wheel drum brakes. Can I use this system on my vehicle?

A: We do not recommend the use of this system on cars with front drum brakes. We have found that excessive grabbing, and left to right front brake pull occurs with the use of this system.

[hasels]

Hello. I just found this forum. I'm installing a hydroboost on my 71 LeMans with a hopped up 400 which doesn't have enough vacuum for my prior setup. It's all setup and installed, primed, etc. The power steering works as it usually did but when I push on the brake pedal, I get a few bump...bump...bump on my foot then it goes to the floor and does nothing. Any ideas? Before I changed the engine, the vacuum brakes worked incredibly well with 4-wheel disc brakes.

[Mr Twister]

Originally Posted by hasels

Hello. I just found this forum. I'm installing a hydroboost on my 71 LeMans with a hopped up 400 which doesn't have enough vacuum for my prior setup. It's all setup and installed, primed, etc. The power steering works as it usually did but when I push on the brake pedal, I get a few bump...bump...bump on my foot then it goes to the floor and does nothing. Any ideas? Before I changed the engine, the vacuum brakes worked incredibly well with 4-wheel disc brakes.

I think the hydroboost is a deep pushrod cup unit. If your old MC is a shallow push rod cup it may need to be changed for proper travel. Old thread but maybe the OP will see this.

[Lemans64]

Originally Posted by hasels

Hello. I just found this forum. I'm installing a hydroboost on my 71 LeMans with a hopped up 400 which doesn't have enough vacuum for my prior setup. It's all setup and installed, primed, etc. The power steering works as it usually did but when I push on the brake pedal, I get a few bump...bump...bump on my foot then it goes to the floor and does nothing. Any ideas? Before I changed the engine, the vacuum brakes worked incredibly well with 4-wheel disc brakes.

As mentioned you need to check this. Here is a company that sells Hydraboost systems that shows the difference in master cylinders and pushrods.
http://www.hydratechbraking.com/GM_A_Body.html