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#1
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I had an igniter III conversion in my original 68 points distributor . Since I finished the car , I’ve always had quirky idle rpm , inconsistent timing and restarts . The engine ran fine other wise . Then it started feeling flat in the midrange . I found the timing was only showing about 24* at 3k . After much guidance from Bob aka Suntu ed , the consensus was to ditch the Petronix . I used a nos set of accel points and AC condenser , wired in a ballast resistor and wham ! Runs excellent , strong midrange ! Easy starts . This is the first set of points I’ve ever owned or installed and I’m impressed . The ballast I used was an AC F1104 , it’s rather small , dropped the voltage to the coil to about 8.9 . Much thanks again to Suntuned !
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| The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to locomotivebreath For This Useful Post: | ||
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#2
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What many of us have said for years. Nothing wrong with a good set of points.
Glad it worked out. Should provide you years and years of trouble free service. |
| The Following User Says Thank You to Formulajones For This Useful Post: | ||
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#3
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Yep, my 67 still runs points. Remember to check dwell once in a while to keep them in the 28-32 range as they wear.
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The More People I Meet, The More I Love My Dogs! |
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#4
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Pertronix left me stranded twice
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468/TKO600 Ford thru bolt equipped 64 Tempest Custom. Custom Nocturne Blue with black interior. |
| The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to 64speed For This Useful Post: | ||
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#5
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Dumped the Pertronix the PO put in my 61 several years back due to several little problems I could find no other explanation for. Starts right up, idles smooth, no flat spots. and no unexplained shut offs. Life is good.
Don't put a lot of miles on it and sometime if it doesn't run like this I will know it's time to change points, May even put in some of the NOS plugs I'm saving and do what we used to call a tune up. Points will usually give warning long before the crap out completely and you get months to figure out where to find a mechanic who can do more than plug on the scan and scratch his (??). |
| The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to pfilean For This Useful Post: | ||
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#6
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I had 2 Pertronix go out on me. Points ever since, no problem.
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"I know just enough to keep me here, but not enough to get me out" |
| The Following User Says Thank You to Cardo For This Useful Post: | ||
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#7
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Ditched the idea of ever buying one before I wasted my money.
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1964 Tempest Coupe LS3/4L70E/3.42 1964 Le Mans Convertible 421 HO/TH350/3.08 2002 WS6 Convertible LS1/4L60E/3.23 1966 VW Type 2 Single Cab Pickup 140hp 2276 1956 VW Type 2 Panel Van 36hp 1200 1957 VW Type 1 Beetle 180hp 2276 |
| The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to b-man For This Useful Post: | ||
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#8
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I liked the idea of the built in rev limiter and at the time , it was a well thought of upgrade - just like hydraulic rollers lol ! . I grew up with H.E.I. , and just figured it would be a no hassle improvement . It randomly just shut off once and then I was afraid of it . No stumble , sputter , just like ur turned the key off . Fired right back up , I could only assume it was the Petronix . I really didn’t want to mount a ballast resistor , but it’s small and the air cleaner hides it . The car sounds smooth , I think it’s quieter - is that possible ?
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#9
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Hey can I ask what coil are you using.
Have been thinking about going back to Points at some point down the road. Thanks Gerry
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1968 Firebird 400, 068 cam, TH400 & 13" Continental Converter, Auburn posi with 3:08 factory gears, Cliff's Q-jet resting on a 68 factory iron intake, GM HEI and Ram Air pans and RARE Long Branch Manifolds |
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#10
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Yes. Gases yearn to do their thing. When the burn
happens inside a large hunk of cast iron, it's quieter. Late burns move the noise downstream. |
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#11
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Shoulda got a DUI...
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70 TA, 467 cid IAII, Edelbrock D-port heads, 9.94:1, Butler HR 236/242 @ .050, 520/540 lift, 112 LSA, Q-jet, TKX (2.87 1st/.81 OD), 3.31 rear https://youtube.com/shorts/gG15nb4FWeo?feature=share |
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#12
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Hey can I ask what coil are you using.
Have been thinking about going back to Points at some point down the road. Thanks Gerry - it’s a master pro 2-5195 from o’reiley . After some internet research , it’s apparently the same unit sold by Napa but I can’t confirm that , that’s info I came across on other forums . It does how ever fit into my stock coil bracket better than the Petronix coil .
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#13
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If you are really bothered by the ceramic ballast resistor, you can buy resistance wire, just like GM used from the factory. You can run a new resistance wire from "run" on the ignition switch to the coil. Takes some time to install, but not a big deal.
As far as Petronix goes, I may be one of the few who has never had a complete failure of one in use. But I have had a Petronix III on a SBF on the engine dyno that would not let the engine run past 3500 RPM's. We went through the rev limiter re-set procedure and it cleaned that up. Personally, I am just not comfortable running cheap Chinese garbage in such a critical application as the ignition system. As Cliff so aptly puts it, "all that electronic junk fails eventually". (paraphrase). I recently did have a brand new Petronix distributor that had a totally defective vacuum advance unit. It held vacuum but did not move the control rod. That would cause all kinds of issues on a street engine. |
| The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to mgarblik For This Useful Post: | ||
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#14
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I felt confident in the the Petronix III as it was and still is according to summit USA made . The longer I’ve owned this car , the more I appreciate its factory parts . I have some aftermarket odds & ends - mostly suspension and a cup holder .
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#15
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I put the M&H point replacement system in my 67 GTO about 15 years ago and it is still running strong. I used the stock coil. And, to convert back to points all I have to do is pull it out and put the stock points back in.
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Remember no one is perfect. Everyone's butt has a crack in it! |
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#16
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I installed the first gen Borg Warner electronic ignition in my Firebird in 1975. It was infrared triggered. The dwell was a constant 30 degrees. It still worked fine after 25 years when the engine was yanked for my replacement body. Hooked up to a Mallory coil, I ran HEI plugs gapped to .045 for a wide flame front. Never had any trouble feeding the tachometer like I do with an MSD distibuter.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to srmmmm For This Useful Post: | ||
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#17
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I only use the original Petronix 1,still made in the USA.I always have them installed by a pro.Suntuned and Ignition engineering have done all of mine.Although I have been doing this Pontiac deal since 1962 I have never messed with dizzys or carbs.I can afford to have a pro work on them.FWIW,Tom
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| The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to tom s For This Useful Post: | ||
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#18
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I’ve never used the pertronix conversion kit, but the complete igniter III pertronix distributor I ran for a few years never gave me any problem. It’s still going in the car that I sold.
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66 GTO, 495, M22, Strange S-60 w/4.10 Sold new at Royal Pontiac (Dealer# 07-679) 70 Formula 400/auto |
| The Following User Says Thank You to Singleton For This Useful Post: | ||
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#19
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Cliff has a very notorious hill behind the shop that he directs folks to throw their XE cams down into the dumpster so that they make that characteristic “tink “ when they land in it…..
I guess I need to find a place here for everyone to throw their old broken Pertronix into so we can listen to the sound of the offshore plastic as it bounces off the trash can sides. Glad you got it worked out. Thanks for the update and the kind words, glad to help. |
| The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to Sun Tuned For This Useful Post: | ||
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#20
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Quote:
I also have the original unit in my ‘65 since the mid ‘90’s now I guess with the same coil and a ballast resistor. I sent the distributor to Sun Tuned also in the mid 2000’s sometime after joining this site. He did his thing, I dropped it in and it’s been there untouched since. Mike |
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