[LT]

Formula ag - would idle and high speed air bleeds set to say .070 /.033 on both primary secondary help?

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[Formula jg]

Do you know the IFR size and location on the metering block (high or low)?

[cdrookie]

I'd want total timing to be in way faster, like 1800. Start with the basics on the carb, check if the primary transfer slot is "square", check float height, let it warm up and adjust the idle, then adjust the 4 corner screws to achieve the highest vacuum reading, might have to reset the idle. Don't adjust the idle with the primary idle adjustment once you have the transfer slot squared, use the secondaries to get the idle where you want it. Your jetting might be a little on the rich side, maybe... But get the basics ironed out then, as mentioned, find a long straight, desolate road and test it out.

[LT]

Ok, why would you suggest having total timing all in at 1800 when the majority of others suggest at peak torque RPM? I'm not saying it's wrong. I'm just asking you to share the reasoning behind it. Thanks!

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[cdrookie]

Timing is hp. Having it full in at 3k rpm's can possibly have you loosing hp below that. Right now my distributor is locked at 36*, so as soon as it starts it's full advance. My starter doesn't like that at all, I ordered a Progression Ignition HEI, to help with that. Every combo is different, so you have to experiment and see what your's likes. I'm no expert, and these days I forget stuff a lot faster than I learn, but I've had a couple distributors set up by a couple different Pontiac guys and both were 18* initial, 36 total, all in by 1800 rpm.

[LT]

Thanks for clarifying the thought process on your suggestion. I can understand locking the timing at 36* starting at 1800, so at idle your at your initial. This will work for drag racing where staging and WOT are paramount. I'm road racing and extreme street, so I need part throttle response and WOT. I should have clarified this in the first post. Sorry, and thanks again.

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[Verdoro 68]

I've been considering one of these distributors because of the tune-ability but the learning curve intimidates me a little bit. I had SunTuned curve my distributor and am happy with it, but I'm wondering if the Progression setup might offer a more well rounded advance curve. How many of you saw a difference out of the box when moving from a prepped stock distributor?

[ta man]

Originally Posted by Verdoro 68

I've been considering one of these distributors because of the tune-ability but the learning curve intimidates me a little bit. I had SunTuned curve my distributor and am happy with it, but I'm wondering if the Progression setup might offer a more well rounded advance curve. How many of you saw a difference out of the box when moving from a prepped stock distributor?

The big advantage is as long as you have a basic understanding of timing is you can make changes from your phone. You can fine tune in real time what the engine wants.

[Verdoro 68]

I'm going to install one this weekend. Any suggestions for a baseline curve for a stroker with a 236/242 and a 3000 stall and round port iron heads? A chassis dyno run showed that my engine is done by 5000 and torque maxes at 3750.

I'm thinking 12 initial, 36 total RPM in by 2900 with a 5300 rev limiter. As I understand it, the iron heads like more timing than their aluminum counterparts.

[Singleton]

Originally Posted by Verdoro 68

I'm going to install one this weekend. Any suggestions for a baseline curve?

The great thing about these is how easy it is to experiment with different settings from the drivers seat. My opinion is that it will idle better with a lot more initial timing (20's or more), and more timing (mid to upper 40's), at part throttle cruise in the 49-42kpa row @ 2200-2500 rpm will net a cooler running engine and better fuel economy.
Remember that this distributer cranks at 15 degrees no matter how high you have your initial timing set at.
Your wide open timing seems ok, but like i said previously, its simple to experiment with different settings, and you can make and store multiple timing charts to easily switch between them while driving

[ta man]

Originally Posted by Singleton

The great thing about these is how easy it is to experiment with different settings from the drivers seat. My opinion is that it will idle better with a lot more initial timing (20's or more), and more timing (mid to upper 40's), at part throttle cruise in the 49-42kpa row @ 2200-2500 rpm will net a cooler running engine and better fuel economy.
Remember that this distributer cranks at 15 degrees no matter how high you have your initial timing set at.
Your wide open timing seems ok, but like i said previously, its simple to experiment with different settings, and you can make and store multiple timing charts to easily switch between them while driving

Cranking is always at 10 degrees. I would suggest to double check your timing with a gun vs the display to ensure it is accurate. Raise up your rev limiter to 5500 to 5700 to get it well above your shift but keeps the engine safe. Have fun with the tunes. If you can get to the dragstrip it is great to tune your total timing. Just remember timing can affect the carb tuning at cruise and idle and vice versa.

[Verdoro 68]

Got it installed this afternoon. Pretty easy setup and initial fire. I swapped out the melonized gear for the composite BOP gear I've been running. I started with initial at 12 degrees, but I ended up at 14 which allowed me to smooth things out. I was kind of surprised that I was able to bring the idle down about 100rpm from where it was with my old distributor by putting more initial into it. The RPM drop between park and drive is almost unnoticeable. I didn't get a chance to take it out, but I'm impressed so far.

[grivera]

Ken - have you gotten some drive time on this - if so, how do you like it?

[Verdoro 68]

It's been pouring rain here so I haven't had it out yet. Maybe tomorrow if the weather clears.

[Verdoro 68]

I took the car out around town this weekend. Overall, the car feels more responsive. I underestimated how nice it is to adjust the timing without any tools!

I started with the initial advance and experimented moving it between 12 up to 18. The car seems to like 12-14 best. I was confused to see the idle speed in the app vary 80-100 rpm. The engine sounded steady, the tach was steady and the timing light only indicated 10rpm variance. Adjusting the idle speed and timing didn't level it out, so I'm wondering if the rpm reporting in the app is just very finite. Right now, I've got the distributor wired up to the coil which provides full voltage so power shouldn't be an issue. I've got the vacuum source teed off the back of the carb, but it's a line shared with several other accessories so I'm going to give the distributor it's own source and see if that helps.

I like the aggressive mode. It helped with the responsiveness on the lower end, so I'll likely be running with it. My car lives between 2200 and 3000 so the timing is mostly in at that point anyway, but for lower RPM driving it added some pep.

Video of RPM variance in the app: https://youtu.be/mQw0F666Ebc

This process has been very much trial and error for me. I've changed the curves too many times to count, but here's where I'm currently at.

[ta man]

Try setting your 101 and 94 values at 640 rpm at 14 degrees. I wish this distributor was made years ago. For another build coming up I'm ordering another one.

[grivera]

Looking forward to getting mine but want to wait till I’m at that stage in the build…don’t want it sitting around eating up warranty time…

[promptcritical]

Originally Posted by ta man

Try setting your 101 and 94 values at 640 rpm at 14 degrees. I wish this distributor was made years ago. For another build coming up I'm ordering another one.

Why? I’m just trying to figure those maps out. Thanks.

[ta man]

Originally Posted by promptcritical

Why? I’m just trying to figure those maps out. Thanks.

I forgot the OP is using manifold vacuum, so it doesn't matter. I run ported vacuum advance so my idle timing needs a little help when it is cold.

[promptcritical]

Originally Posted by ta man

I forgot the OP is using manifold vacuum, so it doesn't matter. I run ported vacuum advance so my idle timing needs a little help when it is cold.