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#1
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I'm putting together one of my spare engines, so that I can sell it. I just want a smooth running, idling engine with no farting around or adjusting valves, etc.
I also don't want to wipe another cam. I've gone through a few of them lately and it's been frustrating to say the least. I don't mind spending a few bucks for good parts and also taking the time to get it running properly. A decent, properly running engine would be worth a good buck around here. So I'm thinking: - Low lift camshaft -the best lifters available -remove the inner springs and carefully fire up the engine I just want to use the factory rocker nuts torqued down to 20lbs, etc. Any other pointers and product recommendations would be appreciated. |
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#2
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I have had good luck with my Crower cam and cam saver lifters DESPITE a flawed break in and a backed off rocker on the first drive
__________________
468/TKO600 Ford thru bolt equipped 64 Tempest Custom. Custom Nocturne Blue with black interior. |
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#3
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Melling SPC4 cam (066). Hy-lift Johnson lifters. Enginetech valve springs from Rock Auto. Isky Rev-Lube. You’re good.
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#4
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If its for resale look into what the machine work will cost to do it right.Might be better off selling as a rebuildable core than get wrapped up in a total rebuild.Tom
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#5
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Most people are hesitant about buying a "rebuilt engine" even with paper work. Even good machine shops make mistakes and as 2nd owner you have no recourse. "Tom s" is probably right . Assemble your parts and sell it as a rebuildable core.
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#6
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Agreed 100%, just sell what you can of it disassembled and move on.
__________________
Wernher Von Braun warned before his retirement from NASA back in 1972, that the next world war would be against the ETs! And he was not talking about 1/8 or 1/4 mile ETs! 1) 1940s 100% silver 4 cup tea server set. Two dry rotted 14 x 10 Micky Thompson slicks. 1) un-mailed in gift coupon from a 1972 box of corn flakes. Two pairs of brown leather flip flops, never seen more then 2 mph. Education is what your left with once you forget things! |
| The Following User Says Thank You to steve25 For This Useful Post: | ||
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#7
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Bad idea.
Established shops that can offer some kind of warranty are reasonably able to turn a profit on rebuilt engines. Private individuals doing the same are going to have a tough time getting their money back let alone make money selling a rebuilt engine. People can’t trust the quality of the work or of the parts used in a rebuilt engine from someone with no reputation in the business and will only pay a low price because they’re taking a chance. No profit or very little. You didn’t state exactly what engine you’re planning on selling. 350 engines running or as cores have almost zero interest for buyers. 400, 428 and 455 engines definitely will, cores for these engines are good sellers. But again almost nobody trusts an amateur rebuild no matter what receipts you can show.
__________________
1964 Tempest Coupe LS3/4L70E/3.42 1964 Le Mans Convertible 421 HO/TH350/3.08 2002 WS6 Convertible LS1/4L60E/3.23 1966 VW Type 2 Single Cab Pickup 140hp 2276 1956 VW Type 2 Panel Van 36hp 1200 1957 VW Type 1 Beetle 180hp 2276 |
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#8
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I agree about selling the engine "as is"
Fwiw... using the factory 20 lbs.ft method of adjusting the valves has more to do with machine work and less to do with the cam selection. |
| The Following User Says Thank You to PAUL K For This Useful Post: | ||
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#9
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The factory 20 lb adjustment is also in conjunction with having the stock bottle neck rocker studs.
The stock factory non RA4 lifters have a plunger travel range of .120”. This gave the factory room to play around with head gasket thickness and and tolerances in applying the valve job while allowing for heat expansion of the valvetrain and valve recession during the life of the motor while still having no lash take place to make for valvetrain noise and to allow the valves to close and seal. The 20 ft lb adjustment on average puts the lifter travel right in the middle pretty much of its .120” range when a hydro lifter will perform its job as intended. Things are a bit more critical with the factory RA4 lifters as there plungers only have .060” travel range if I recall right.
__________________
Wernher Von Braun warned before his retirement from NASA back in 1972, that the next world war would be against the ETs! And he was not talking about 1/8 or 1/4 mile ETs! 1) 1940s 100% silver 4 cup tea server set. Two dry rotted 14 x 10 Micky Thompson slicks. 1) un-mailed in gift coupon from a 1972 box of corn flakes. Two pairs of brown leather flip flops, never seen more then 2 mph. Education is what your left with once you forget things! |
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#10
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If building the engine is enjoyable for you, then I have a couple suggestions. This should get you closer to at least breaking even when you sell it. 1. Try to have a buyer lined-up before you begin the build and get a deposit for the build. 2. If building the engine 100% on speculation, have the engine in a chassis, or at least on a run stand so a buyer can hear the engine run before purchase. 3. Have paperwork with a complete, accurate parts list, measurements of all critical dimensions. (cylinder to wall, ring end gaps, oil clearances, valve stem to guide, surface finishes, type of valve job and such) Even with these bases covered, it can be difficult to recover the cost of an engine build using quality parts and machining everything properly. Think of this much like remodeling a kitchen or a bathroom. When you sell, you only get a percentage of the investment back.
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#11
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Thanks, guys for the replies.
The engine is a 400. It was rebuilt and running, but we knew that the cam was no good. I cannibalised the engine for the accessories and intake. Now I want to put it back together and get it running. A running engine is worth way more around here and likely no one will buy it for a core. I have a home built stand to run it on and show prospective buyers. Even if they want to tear it down after, the optics of it running will make all the difference. |
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#12
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So this 400 will use your Edelbrock round port exh heads that you have?
__________________
Wernher Von Braun warned before his retirement from NASA back in 1972, that the next world war would be against the ETs! And he was not talking about 1/8 or 1/4 mile ETs! 1) 1940s 100% silver 4 cup tea server set. Two dry rotted 14 x 10 Micky Thompson slicks. 1) un-mailed in gift coupon from a 1972 box of corn flakes. Two pairs of brown leather flip flops, never seen more then 2 mph. Education is what your left with once you forget things! |
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#13
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I would add If you do build it with intent for re'sale having it in a running verifiable state provides a potential buyer with more confidence, VRS i just put it together here it is..
__________________
........... The More You Follow The Herd The Less You Can Be In The Lead .......... |
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#14
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bad idea..not too long ago i picked up a brand new fully forged eagle 467 kit, the asking price was 3k. i offered 1800 not realizing it came with a fully machined 67 400 block. the guy had other interest in it so he passed. a week later he said my offer was the best he had an come get it. i didnt realise until i got there he was giving me the block. the guy was disgusted at the offers he had...i even told him i didnt know he was including the block but he said yup..need it gone.
that being said, that told me that my 400 that was at a really well known pontiac shop using a lesser crank was pretty much mine forever unless i just want to give it away....my advice, part it at a small loss, build it for a big loss...or build it an run the piss out of it...what im doing. lol..pontiac guys are the worst....you could buy a brand new set of 3k heads, turn around and postem for 2k and still get a generous offer of 1500 haha Last edited by performerrpm; 08-01-2025 at 02:40 PM. |
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#15
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For the record, I sold a running 455,with a 20 yr old build, for $500 more than I wanted.
Runs 12.7 in a mid ‘70’s trans am with 2.41 gears. |
| The Following User Says Thank You to PunchT37 For This Useful Post: | ||
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#16
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It just never fails, anyone with an engine for sale tells you to "listen to it run", but the damn thing has open headers and you cant hear **** over the noise.
Good luck
__________________
Clutch Guys Matter _______________________________________ 53 Studebaker, 400 pontiac 72 4-4-2 Mondello's VO Twister II 1964 F-85 Home of the 700hp small-block Olds **Still wanting a 64 Bonneville or Catalina** |
| The Following User Says Thank You to Mr Anonymous For This Useful Post: | ||
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#17
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Not mine.
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#18
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The perp;
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#19
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Somebody roll this for me.
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#20
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It's ALWAYS a good idea to use poly locks so you can properly adjust the lifters.
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Tim Corcoran |
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