[64speed]

I have a simple question that I hope I can get a solid response on. Can I take the lower portion of my radiator support and drill out the welds, drop it 2 inches and fit the bigger AC radiator? Has anyone done it? Cold cases conversion kit is out of production because by their own admission it was not great. What’s the easiest thing to do short of hunting out a unicorn?

[b-man]

It’s been done.

I had a 1967 GTO here some years back where they did that. They extended a short support to fit the tall radiator. Kinda ugly but it worked.

Unfortunately the core support hung way below the bottom of the bumper. Unless you go the extra mile and modify the bottom with something substantial like 1/8” flat stock to eliminate the upside down channel on the short core support you already have to make the bottom flat like a factory 17-1/2”’support. All that fabrication will be spendy unless you have a good friend who’s a decent welder/fabricator.

Why don’t you try posting a want ad for the core support? If you had done that awhile back when you were considering this you might have found one already.

So it’s not like you can’t do it. But be aware of the ground clearance issues it presents if you don’t make the bottom flat.

Honestly there’s no easiest thing to do save for finding an original support that I’m guessing you haven’t looked for yet. It’s not impossible to find unless you give up before trying to find one.

Solid enough response?

Now cue the guys who are getting by fine with the short 15-1/2” radiators……which the factory didn’t see fit to use in the 1964 389 GTO……and of which the thread starter here doesn’t find adequate.

[64speed]

I looked at Franks Pontiac Parts. The one he had was sold. I have a lead on another.

[BB70]

Seen this

https://www.facebook.com/share/p/1CZ4jEyE5D/

[HWYSTR455]

What temps is it running?


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[64speed]

It goes over 200 and keeps creeping really slow if the AC is on. If it’s off it’s fine

[65 Lamnas]

Originally Posted by BB70

Seen this

https://www.facebook.com/share/p/1CZ4jEyE5D/

This one's mine...just listed it yesterday in a few FB groups.

[Formulajones]

Going through all that trouble just to gain 2" of radiator depth??

What's that add, maybe 3 rows of cooling tubes??

[64speed]

Originally Posted by Formulajones

Going through all that trouble just to gain 2" of radiator depth??

What's that add, maybe 3 rows of cooling tubes??

I am all ears if you have a good idea

[grivera]

Originally Posted by 64speed

It goes over 200 and keeps creeping really slow if the AC is on. If it’s off it’s fine

Frankly, I don’t think the juice will be worth the squeeze on an already assembled car. I would just turn off the A/C if faced with a temperature creep situation. I wouldn’t sweat anything under 215 degrees…

[HWYSTR455]

Were all the 'regular' tricks & tips done? Like divider plate clearancing, proper AC pulleys, shroud, etc? And it's correctly tuned?

What's the hottest it gets if you leave the AC on?



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[64speed]

It doesn’t temp creep unless the air is on. Without it it runs in the 180s. With the air on I’ve had it go to 208. Fire I shut it down.

[Skip Fix]

Be sure all the air goes through the radiator vs around it also.

[Formulajones]

Originally Posted by 64speed

I am all ears if you have a good idea

Im full of good ideas

However going through all that work I'd personally want a bigger change than that to warrant the time and effort. That was my point.

200 isn't terrible but would like to know more. Is it creeping sitting still or moving? I would have to know if it continues to creep or if it does level off before I can discern there's a bigger problem.

Almost all of these cooling issues I see in Arizona are almost always tune related. The rest comes from crappy electric fan designs. Not so much the height or width of the radiator. We own and/or have worked on tri-5 chevys with fairly rambunctious engines and their stock size radiator ( which isn't very big) and they cool fine if everything else is right.

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by Skip Fix

Be sure all the air goes through the radiator vs around it also.

'Foam hot water pipe noodle method'.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Foam-King...f-4/5168983190



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[64speed]

Originally Posted by Formulajones

Im full of good ideas

However going through all that work I'd personally want a bigger change than that to warrant the time and effort. That was my point.

200 isn't terrible but would like to know more. Is it creeping sitting still or moving? I would have to know if it continues to creep or if it does level off before I can discern there's a bigger problem.

Almost all of these cooling issues I see in Arizona are almost always tune related. The rest comes from crappy electric fan designs. Not so much the height or width of the radiator. We own and/or have worked on tri-5 chevys with fairly rambunctious engines and their stock size radiator ( which isn't very big) and they cool fine if everything else is right.

It does not creep with the ac off. Going down the road I would almost say it overcools because it runs about 176. If it does start getting hot from the AC and sitting still idling if I turn the AC off it starts dropping or at the very least stops. I have a 180 T-stat that opens right on time. 34 degrees total timing. Carb was setup by Ray Klemm. The tune is as good as I can get it with my skill level.

[64speed]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

'Foam hot water pipe noodle method'.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Foam-King...f-4/5168983190



.

What is this?

[Dragracertoo]

64 speed, you have a pm

[Skip Fix]

You block off EVERY crevice air can go through the grille and around the radiator. Sides, underneath, top.
I wantr to think the old A'C core support that was in the trunk of my 65 had rubber shield on the sides -like fender well flaps- to block off air. Noodles can be used as they are soft and can conform to gaps .

64 Corvette project I'm working on had a factory shroud but the entire bottom half was open in front of the cross member-completed the bottom with aluminum sheet to prevent that. A/C Vettes also had a rubber seal at the top so air could not go over the core support forcing it through the radiator. Now it can sit at idle with AC on in 100 degrees and stay 180! Picture not mine another car.

[Formulajones]

Originally Posted by 64speed

It does not creep with the ac off. Going down the road I would almost say it overcools because it runs about 176. If it does start getting hot from the AC and sitting still idling if I turn the AC off it starts dropping or at the very least stops. I have a 180 T-stat that opens right on time. 34 degrees total timing. Carb was setup by Ray Klemm. The tune is as good as I can get it with my skill level.

With a 180 stat and running 176 is normal for a 180 stat. Stats usually start opening a few degrees before their rated temp and don't fully open until slightly above their rated temp. A decent cooling system can keep the engine at the temp the stat cracks open at if everything is up to par. That sounds like what you have happening their, I see nothing to worry about with that.

There is a bunch more to timing than total. Idle timing and part throttle cruise timing is crucial not just to how well the car drives and performs day to day but it affects how cool or hot it may run as well.
I don't know if you have vacuum advance or a wiz bang programmable but you can accomplish a proper curve either way. Don't be afraid to experiment a little here.
Skip is also on to something. Most of these cars did have some form of ducting to direct air flow whether it was rubber or sheet metal pieces. A 68 400 firebird I recently restored comes to mind, it had a bunch of pieces around the radiator from the factory. Most of that stuff is tossed and discarded as not needed after 50-something years. Luckily it's all reproduce. Don't know what 64s had if any but something to consider