[HWYSTR455]

Yes, hot water heater 'noodle' insulation, can get it in black, is available at Home Depot & Lowes. (pic attached)

It takes heat (obviously), and it conforms to surfaces, forces as much air as possible thru the radiator.

You can spread it at the slit and make it half as thick, cut it, glue pieces together, etc.

Any areas you can't do with a noodle you can use sheet rubber and plastic push pin-type retainers to hold it in place. (A small hole drilled may be required but no biggie).

An air dam also helps pickup air closer to ground/from under car and can also help force more air thru the radiator. It doesn't take much to make a difference.


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[grivera]

Originally Posted by Skip Fix

I wantr to think the old A'C core support that was in the trunk of my 65 had rubber shield on the sides -like fender well flaps- to block off air. Noodles can be used as they are soft and can conform to gaps .

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Yep -

Dave, I have this kit unused on my shelf if you need it.

https://www.amesperf.com/parts/24346/

https://www.amesperf.com/parts/27982/

[64speed]

My problem is only at idle. The cooling system seems to be up to par for a non ac application it just can’t sit in traffic with the air on. At some point I have to roll the windows down and turn off the air which to me defeats its purpose. Where should I start with the timing?

[64speed]

The radiator is sealed to the support with HVAC strip foam but a pool noodle may work better

[Singleton]

Since you say that the temp creeps up only at idle, I have the same question that HWYSTR455 asked: What is the actual timing at idle? and what rpm is idle?

[HWYSTR455]

That AC seal kit is bare minimum to have in place, and if there are areas that those seals don't cover or work well, THEN you use the noodles.

In some cases, like when you go to electric fans etc, then you are forced to use other methods, such as the noodles.

Many times when a car is disassembled and painted, the seals are not re-installed. Be it that they are destroyed & unusable, and/or the owner didn't specify that they ensure they are installed.

Sadly tho, many of the seal kits either don't fit well or the attaching hardware is less then, um, optimal.


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[Formulajones]

Originally Posted by 64speed

My problem is only at idle. The cooling system seems to be up to par for a non ac application it just can’t sit in traffic with the air on. At some point I have to roll the windows down and turn off the air which to me defeats its purpose. Where should I start with the timing?

Well I don't know what ignition you have so I can't suggest how to go about it, but it can be accomplished a few different ways. With either vacuum advance or the easier method with computer control.

Since it happens at idle I'm guessing you probably don't have much idle timing in it. Extremely common. I see this more than any other scenario.

Contrary to popular belief most of these hotrods really like 28-30 degrees of idle timing. I'd start there.

[64speed]

I have MSD with a 6AL box. 28-30 with vacuum or just from the distributor?

[Formulajones]

I usually set it up with initial (from distributor) at 14 or maybe as much as 18. Then vacuum advance adds another 10-12 or maybe even more depending on where initial is.

The two together will give you 28-30 degrees idle timing is what I start with. So you have to fudge initial and vacuum around to get that number.

I have to modify the vacuum cans to achieve what I want. Of course I also have to modify the distributor breaker plate to get initial where I want. On an MSD it's easy, it comes with bushings that bolt in. I typically use the black bushing (largest) and sometimes on really radical stuff I make my own bushing to bolt in for a couple more degrees if needed.

[64speed]

Damn I wish you were closer. I already put the black bushing in when I got the distributor. It had the blue bushing in it. My vacuum advance is supposed to be adjustable. I haven’t turned it up because the way it’s positioned I can’t get the wrench in there. I may try to make one. Might have to bite the bullet and pull the distributor but I am reluctant to do that because it has run so good lately.

[Skip Fix]

So here is my 65 . Look at all the gaps around the radiator that need to be sealed.

[64speed]

I have every gap I can find plugged

[Skip Fix]

Good! I did look at the AC core support yesterday while at the shop and yes on the sides it has the rubber flaps.

[64speed]

One of the kind members on here was good enough to sell me a factory lower radiator support basically like the Cold Case conversion except it’s from a factory piece.

[64speed]

How many of you have performed this mod? Can anyone give me some tips or instruction.

[b-man]

It would be wise to first off buy the radiator you’re going to use, along with the rubber insulators that the radiator sets into in the bottom. Also the top clamp and rubber insulator.

These items will assist your competent welder/fabricator to fixture the new bottom piece in place. Removing the old bottom piece carefully is key here so as not to damage the upper piece you’re going to attach to.

A nice flat welding table to use to keep everything square is essential here. Tack weld it and check everything for proper positioning before the final welding.

This will not be a simple or inexpensive endeavor. Your neighbor down the street with a welding machine who’ll do it for free isn’t an option here.

[64speed]

I already have the bigger saddles etc as I am using the exact cold case radiator that I will be using again albeit in the larger size. This will be done in the car so I won’t be able to lay it out on a welding table.

[b-man]

You asked how to do it but I guess you already have your own plan.

Good luck.

[64speed]

No I don’t have a plan. That’s why I asked. You laid out a plan implying it was going to be done with the core support on a bench. Maybe I’m mistaken in thinking this can be done in the car?

[HWYSTR455]

Pretty sure it can be done in the car, but you won't have enough room to make it look good.



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