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#341
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Yes, I live in OC. Funny about the driveshaft vibration you mentioned, I have one myself I'm trying to figure out. I was thinking rim or tire but I'll have to give mine a closer look.
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Chris D 69 GTO Liberty Blue/dark blue T400, 9" w 3.50s, 3905lbs 461, 850 Holley, T2, KRE 310s, Comp HR 236/242D .572/.594L, RA manifolds, 11.53@114, 1.55/60 The spare: 467, 850 Holley, T2, Edelbrock Dport 310cfm w RA manifolds, Howard HFT 245/251D .561/.594L, 11.59@ 114, 1.57/ 60' |
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#342
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Yes, it wasn't off by much. I loosened and re-centered the u joint so the caps stick out equally on both sides.
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#343
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The 3r u-joint centers itself with no movement side to side. Are you sure the inside clips are installed?
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#344
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It has the C clips to hold the u-joint in place on the driveshaft and front slip yoke. But where mine was off was on the pinion yoke. Every other driveshaft I have ever installed has had ridges on the pinion yoke to seat the u-joint caps and assure the u-joint is centered. Mine doesn't have any ridges.
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#345
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Does it have a cap or a u-bolt?
The caps had a tang to center the u-joint, because the pinion didn't have the tang.
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John Wallace - johnta1 Pontiac Power RULES !!! www.wallaceracing.com Winner of Top Class at Pontiac Nationals, 2004 Cordova Winner of Quick 16 At Ames 2004 Pontiac Tripower Nats KRE's MR-1 - 1st 5 second Pontiac block ever! W.E.C moment "Every man has a right to his own opinion, but no man has a right to be wrong in his facts." "People demand freedom of speech to make up for the freedom of thought which they avoid." – Socrates |
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#346
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#347
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#348
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Okay, thanks guys. I need to look closer at this. It will have to wait as I'm going out of town for a week. I will get on it when I get back. Thanks again. --Kim
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#349
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I have verified that all the u-joints have the c-clips and the pinion u-joint is held on with u-bolts.
I had originally installed the driveshaft with new u-joints last Fall. It drove without vibration then. Then in February I had to remove the transmission to replace the throw out bearing and think (hope) I just reinstalled the driveshaft off-center. Vibration started after re-installation. Now that I've centered it, it drives fine. Here are some pictures... Does anyone see any problems? |
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#350
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I took the plunge! Taking the dash apart. The plan is to clean everything; clean the cluster; replace all the bulbs; paint the silver part of the bezel; install woodgrain on the bezel; fix one crack on the dash pad; paint the dash pad and re-assemble before the 14th... because I have an appt to get passenger outer wheelhouse and partial quarter installed the last half of the month. So, I need to keep moving on this.
I need to unhook wires to courtesy light switches or uninstall switches and get the whole pad off the car and then to figure out how to remove bezel and cluster. Any suggestions or tips would be welcome! Anyone know if I can replace bulbs with LED's? |
| The Following User Says Thank You to 79 Phoenix For This Useful Post: | ||
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#351
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I installed LED’s in my dash cluster when I pulled it this spring. Search here for some threads, there were some really good threads on removing the dash in the ‘70-‘72 cars, it’s not hard, just requires patience.
Edit found: https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...t=Dash+removal
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1972 GTO |
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#352
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Thanks 67 Lemons. for the great link. I had done previous research but had not come across that thread. Fortunately, I have already accomplished that much. I just need to disconnect the dome light switches. and then pull the unit out and work on the bezel and cluster.
I plan on using SEM Color Coat Satin Black on the pad after I fix a small crack. As far as I can tell, the Satin should be the closest to original. So, do the LEDs work well in yours? Not too bright? The only lights that currently work on mine are the speedometer lights, But ,they are very dim. But they have been in there for at least 45 years! |
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#353
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Only issue I have had with LED instrument lamps was they do not dim.
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#354
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Like Scarebird says, they may not dim at all or dim the way you want.
You can certainly use LEDs but get specifics from someone that used them and is happy. It may be tricky to get the right "light output power" and the "color" can vary. You may need to re-do the blue reflector paint in some of the gauge backs. Not a 70 Tempest, but this may offer some insight: https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...highlight=1891 It has been almost 10 years since I went through my dash, and I chose to stick with incandescent lamps. Here are some notes I took, but they are incomplete. No guarantees about accuracy so double check: There are several threads on here that suggest alternative lamps that are brighter. The tradeoff will likely be hotter and less life. Here is another chart I pulled out of my notes that details some of the differences. For example, 168 is sometimes recommended as a brighter option for 194 and is what I installed: |
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#355
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Thanks for pointing this out! I had forgotten about the dimming issue.
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#356
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My Gt-37 is a base model and doesn't have some of the lighting...ashtray, glovebox, etc. so I don't think there will be that many bulbs to locate. |
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#357
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#358
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I got mine from superbrite LED’s and they do not dim but they look great, remember the color spectrum of the LED also plays a role in how they look vs incandescent bulbs. It’s hard to see in the pics because I also have blue LED strips for mood lighting in the footwells. Pretty sure that I used these 4000k bulbs or something similar.
https://www.superbrightleds.com//194...-Natural~4000K
__________________
1972 GTO |
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#359
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Thanks! Cool looking dash and the instruments light up well. I'm going to mull this over and have to decide which route to goo soon, but this helps!
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#360
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I took another look at the instruments this morning. Note that the illumination is slightly uneven. Also, I paid closer attention to the rheostat and noted that the result is 100%-85% then nothing: no very dim for those blacker than Hitler's heart nights.
The inside of the gauges are sprayed early 60's Pontiac engine blue. I will eventually dust this with gloss white |
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