[tom s]

Welding cast cranks is usually not recommended.Forged yes.When We did the 301 383 stroker we used bearing spacers.Tom

[ponchjoe]

Originally Posted by Formulas

I've known that for decades along along with not needing a packing tool,
But Op didn't mention anything but cutting the crank,
Was prodding for a deeper answer to see if both oars were in the water

What’s the question? I have a 428 crank turned to 3” mains and will be using the Olds thrust bearing and shims.

[Formulas]

The question was in post #18 Back in February, I know / knew all the possible ways, Asked your method, But it really doesn't matter.

[ponchjoe]

Originally Posted by Formulas

The question was in post #18 Back in February, I know / knew all the possible ways, Asked your method, But it really doesn't matter.

Ok, consider it answered

[PunchT37]

Iv`e always just used a 1/2 inch extension with oil. Just mash it back and forth. You can feel the peaks and valleys. Just go back and forth till it feels even from parting line to parting line. Cut ends with a NEW razor blade. Leave about .010 above parting line. I use a dab of Permatex #2 on the parting lines. Block and cap. Bolt cap on.


At least till now, never had a rope seal leak. Not even on a Buick 455.


No fancy tools at all.

[Schurkey]

I've heard that Pontiac blocks sometimes have a machining problem where the bearing bore and the seal bore are not concentric.

IF the bores are properly aligned, I REFUSE to use a rope seal if there's a suitable lip-seal available. If the bores are not concentric, a rope seal is almost mandatory. A lip-seal has limited ability to compensate for non-concentricity.

I suppose if the block has been align-bored, you could also have problems with concentricity; so far I've been lucky.