[Shiny]

I started removing the rear bumper and I'm not enjoying it. Yes, a lift would make it easier but that would be someone else's garage.

Book said leave the bumper fastened to the brackets and remove the brackets from the body.

Is this truly the easiest way?

This bolt at the top of the bracket is hard to reach. I finally got it started with a ratcheting box-end wrench, but so far, it's two clicks at a time. Any magic tool out there to make it easier?



If you have done this on your back with the car on jackstands, how did you support the bumper when you removed all the bolts? Any clever ideas for wiring or strapping it to make it a one-person job?

Mike

[b-man]

I don’t install the bumpers with the car up on jack stands, it’s so much easier with the car sitting with its wheels on the ground.

Use your floor jack with an old towel folded up on the jack pad to protect the bumper. Leave the brackets on the bumper.

Just recently installed both bumpers by myself on a ‘67 here, same on my ‘64s, solo operation with a common floor jack. Just balance it on the jack. If you have a paint job to worry about then get a helper and protect the paint with a few layers of blue painters tape.

If you have a helper so much the better but I always prefer to work alone unless absolutely necessary.

[DavesGTO]

Spray lot of Kroil on those bolts, you could break off the retaining nut on the backside of the tail panel. You'll have to weld a nut on if that happens, frowned upon.

[Shiny]

Originally Posted by b-man

I don’t install the bumpers with the car up on jack stands, it’s so much easier with the car sitting with its wheels on the ground.

Use your floor jack with an old towel folded up on the jack pad to protect the bumper. Leave the brackets on the bumper.

Thanks for this. I doubt I can reach the upper "outboard" bracket-to-body bolts with the car lowered but I'll give it a try. If not, I will try removing them, then lowering. I might be able to remove all four outboard bolts and get away with the bumper hanging from the inner bracket while I lower it.

Originally Posted by b-man

Just recently installed both bumpers by myself on a ‘67 here, same on my ‘64s, solo operation with a common floor jack. Just balance it on the jack.

You may have superpowers. My front bumper was a handful for two. I have a new rear bumper and while not too heavy, it's awkward. I suspect it might actually get dangerous with all the brackets still on it and I'm under it.

Originally Posted by b-man

If you have a paint job to worry about then get a helper and protect the paint with a few layers of blue painters tape.

Ha! You know better.... this is one of the reasons the bumper is coming off..

Originally Posted by DavesGTO

Spray lot of Kroil on those bolts, you could break off the retaining nut on the backside of the tail panel. You'll have to weld a nut on if that happens, frowned upon.

Good warning, thank you. I'll spray them. Luckily, they aren't bound up... in fact 4 of the 6 I've loosened so far were barely clamped. But if they would back out by hand, that would be a blessing.

Mike

[steve v]

I'm not sure what book you're reading but it is wrong. Here's how I remove a '70-'72 A body rear bumper.

First disconnect the tail light plug ends and license plate lamp plug from inside the rear trunk area & push the rubber grommets thru to the outside of the car.

Leave those outer brackets on the car!!
There are 3 - 5/8" head bolts on each side that run vertically into these brackets, one lower one (shown in your pic) & 2 upper that you'll need a 12" extension to reach with your impact. After you've removed those take out the 2 bolts holding the center bracket to the body thru the license plate opening. Now you can slide the bumper straight back to remove.

Easy to do this way!

[Shiny]

Thank you Steve.

That's what I get for not thinking.

I have renamed this image from the Service Manual "bad advice":



Your way should be way easier if the bolts cooperate. I'll spray these 3 with penetrating oil and get out the impact wrench.

Book 'em, Danno!

Mike

[steve v]

If the bolts still fight you even after spraying try tightening/loosing them ever so slightly.....kind of like rocking your car out of a snow bank. Even on rust belt cars they will almost always come out. If they do break the nut is welded to the body mounted brackets & can be easily replaced.

Also worth mentioning those same 8 bolts allow side to side adjustment so leave them a little loose when installing until you get it where you want it, then tighten them.

The front to back & tilt adjustment is done with thick washers/shims in between the body mounted brackets to the body. If you do remove those brackets pay close attention to where & how many washers there are at each location. I suspect with your quarter damage you may have to do some adjusting or give it a little tug from the backside for your new bumper to fit good.

Good luck!

[Shiny]

Got back to it today, bumper is off. Thanks again!

Bolts were all free, no issues, no hassle at all... the joy of a dry climate car I think.

But...

Note to self: unplug the light harnesses from inside the trunk and push the connectors down. This warning escaped me and I might have had the bumper swinging from the harnesses before my two remaining braincells re-booted. Doh!

Good news is I don't think whatever crushed the quarter panel actually pushed the bumper mount forward much, if at all. There is no obvious bending but I'll measure and compare with the other side.

Mike

[BB70]

I have a old rolling chair that is adjustable for height I use when r&r the rear bumper. Have to have car on jackstands tho.

John

[Shiny]

That's a good idea, thanks