[Bill Hanlon]

When the HydraMatic plant at Livonia Michigan burned down in August 1953 Pontiac used Power Glide transmissions. 9 weeks later HydraMatic production resumed at the Willow Run plant. Only late 1953 models were effected.

See https://livonia.gov/382/History

[Jack Gifford]

Originally Posted by johnta1

... PG is Powerglide maybe? ,,,

Were Canadian Pontiacs Chevy-powered back then?

[Parkman51]

Ever since I purchased the car, there was a small thing bothering me. Sometime in the past, someone had dropped a nail down in the back bumper, and it would protrude disconcertingly from the joint between the upper U-bar part of the bumper and the two side pieces. So today I dismounted the entire thing and emptied it, discovering:
Two bolts of random sizes, apparently unrelated to the car
A tiny lock washer
A broken rubber shield for an electrical connection
The aforementioned rusty nail, and
One orange crayon, unused.



Then I removed the rubber bumper seals, cleaned them well, discovered that they were in fine condition, and remounted them with all new zinc screws. In addition to the twelve screws, I also replaced 3 washers and one lock washer in the mounting hardware.



I also removed the trunk weatherstripping, a much less messy job than the doors were. After I finished up for the day, a package arrived! It's the new junction block, identically sized to the original (and a good thing too, because neither Ames nor CPR nor Ebay had one. Many thanks to Brillman Tractor!



Today's question:
1. Just see yesterday's, especially on the fuel line hardware. I'd like to get that squared away, but I'm hesitant to simply jump in - it's my first time working with flare fittings, and I don't want to damage the part.

[Safari Larry]

Great article from Bill Hanlon on the Hydramatic (HM) fire that caused Pontiac to use Powerglide (PG) transmissions for part of the 53 model year.

Here are a couple of YouTube links that tell how to flare tubing:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CzQEcVFmvWY&t=9s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JgKZ4hy6cho

For a description of flared vs double inverted flared fittings, see https://kingdaflex.com/what-is-a-flare-fitting/. Scroll down a ways for inverted flare. I'm not sure you have the correct male fitting for inverted flare.

Re pedal plate. Good catch in the MPC. Good to see you getting in there and understanding. Note that abbreviations are defined on page 5. I think you should simply make a metal plate to cover the clutch hole. Quite odd that the car has the hole for clutch pedal.

[Bill Hanlon]

Originally Posted by Parkman51

Two bolts of random sizes, apparently unrelated to the car
A tiny lock washer
A broken rubber shield for an electrical connection
The aforementioned rusty nail, and
One orange crayon, unused.

I was going to say a rat/mouse, but the crayon says a 3 year old.

[Parkman51]

Several small things happened today, including the next installment in the Saga of the Fuel Line.

First, I installed the new junction block and connected everything up.



Second, I got another package in the mail - my next order from CPR, with four items: trunk weatherstripping (for later), a fuel filter, a new day/night rearview mirror (I tried for just the glass, but they didn't sell that), and the foam horn contact separation ring.

The rearview mirror went in pretty easily - the ball joint was exceptionally stiff, but ideally, it won't need to move from where it is now.



The horn contact ring went in easily as well, and I reassembled the steering wheel, but this did not fix the HONK problem. I'll dig more into that in the coming days.


As for the fuel filter, well, today's two questions:
1. Included in the filter box was a diagram showing how and where the filter should be installed, and as I suspected, it's supposed to connect directly to the carburetor. Unfortunately, there are three separate problems:
a) the filter cannot be installed "right-side up," as shown in the diagram, because there's a bracket under it.
b) Since the filter is at a slight angle, then, the air cleaner just barely doesn't fit on top.
c) And were this not enough, the filter protrudes far enough from the carb body that it seems like there's no way for the fuel line to fit.
I checked the MPC (group 3.890) to confirm that I have the right thing - it looks like I do - but I have no idea how I'm supposed to connect all this up. What to do?



2. There seems to be something missing on the trunk lid, to the right of the latch. There are empty screw holes and a corresponding fitting where the trunk closes. What am I missing here?

[Safari Larry]

Steps forwards, steps backwards! That's how it goes with these old cars.

Here is fuel connection for Rich Gabrielson's 55 Safari with AC.



The fuel line attaches to the glass bowl filter with an elbow connector, and the filter attaches directly to the carburetor. The fuel line is routed differently than what you show. You show the fuel line coming in on top of the water pipe, I don't think that is correct, keep fuel line away from heat source. It's okay to tilt the filter a bit. If tipping it interferes with the air cleaner, consider using multiple gaskets under the air cleaner to raise it a bit.

I have no explanation for the trunk screw holes.

[Safari Larry]

Thinking... I suspect the screw holes in trunk lid are for attaching the optional trunk light.

[Parkman51]

Did some electrical testing today, but don't have time to upload the video tonight. So we'll stick to the fuel line and the trunk light:

Today's two questions:
1. I didn't provide very good pictures yesterday, I apologize. The fuel line is now routed correctly, and the pictures below should do a much better job visually explaining why the fuel filter doesn't seem to fit. Note also in the installation document I photographed yesterday, there isn't an elbow shown coming off the fuel filter. I am really stymied here, as the only information I have is conflicting. On the one hand, everything I can find indicates that the fuel filter is supposed to go right next to the carburetor. On the other hand, it doesn't seem to fit with the supposedly made-to-OEM-standards fuel line I got from Inline Tube - which just so happens to match the old fuel line I removed.



2. I don't think the trunk fitting was for a light.
a) the light itself is currently elsewhere (shown below),
b) on the bottom edge of the trunk lid seems like a bad place to mount a fragile lightbulb, and
c) the corresponding metal piece on the bottom of the trunk (shown below) seems like it would smash a lightbulb mounted there. Maybe it was an alignment pin of some kind?

[Safari Larry]

1. Much better photos, gives us an idea of what you are up against. It appears that that may have worked with an original filter, as shown in the Shop Manual. Note that what you see in the 1960 MPC is a replacement part, not original. If you look at the 1956 MPC, it will show one part for 55 and another AC part for 56. But none of that helps you, original 55 filter is not available and all you have to work with is the filter your purchased. I'm out of ideas. It appears you will need to do some modification of the fuel line. An option would be to connect the fuel line at carb and install an inline filter just above the fuel pump -- if there is room. To do that you would cut out a short section of the fuel line and put in an inline filter connected with small sections of fuel line hose.

2. See the following ebay links for a trunk light. Looks like the bracket may have been attached at the threaded holes you show. The "Pontiac Accessories for 1955" pamphlet (LINK) shows a trunk light but doesn't say it is real-out as shown in following links.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/15717104015...42865f4573df2a
https://www.ebay.com/itm/15715262172...371820a121d0ea
https://www.ebay.com/itm/156198387096

[Rachelsdad]

Originally Posted by Parkman51

Great advice on the doors (thanks, Rachelsdad). I guess I'll put that on the list for a larger project later - I've been very unwilling to do anything that would damage the interior door trim, so I'll sit down with the Fisher Body manuals before digging in there. Plus I can't weld, so any cutting and welding that needs to be done will have to be done by a reputable body shop.

You bet.

Welding is a good skill to acquire. I had a good teacher (no, not in high school; we didn't do stuff like that - even in auto shop). As with all things in life, practice makes perfect. So, even if you farm this metalwork out to someone else, you still might want to learn at some point. I'd recommend MIG and/or TIG welding these days. I learned on oxy/acetaline and then started arc welding (which made me popular with my friends, doing frame repairs, but was h-llish for sheet metal work, even with an arc torch). My next welder will likely be a TIG setup. I practiced on old body parts (I was much younger then, so I had no old body parts of my own - that was a joke! - I did have a spare door from my '63 Grand Prix with a huge dent in it, so I practiced metal bumping and then welding "beads" back and forth across the panel).

Thankfully, the starter is now working again, after the minor repairs I gave it. If it conks out again, I'll have to find someone who can rebuild it.

Coker sells thick whitewalls for around $330 each, whereas walmart sells thin ones for about $70.

Watch for sales, and don't limit yourself to only shopping from the manufacturer's site. Often, Lucas offers Coker tires at a significant savings. Don't discount Amazon, as well.

Your point is well taken, though; spend your car budget wisely. You can always change tires. (I had to put on a full set of rubber on the Bonneville while on my way to the POCI convention in Springdale, AR in 2024. The tire shop in Tennessee managed to get me a set of Venizias with the proper whitewall and everything for about $75/tire - wow! Had the driver's tire not been slightly blemished, I might have kept them longer, as they rode surprisingly well for "cheap" tires, and the whitewalls were quite correct. I've promised them to a buddy for his '64 Impala.)

Some other catch-up:

Fuel line: Larry's suggestion of adding gaskets to raise the air cleaner is about the best I could devise. As for bending and flaring, that's another skill worth learning (though with stainless lines, this can be an exercise in frustration, so I trust you got the softer stuff we discussed earlier in this thread, which should bend and flare nicely). As with all things, the best advice is to take your time. Practice on a couple of spare pieces to get a feel of the metal and your tool (even if you have to purchase some extra line just for practice). You'll get it; it's not rocket science, but a skill, nonetheless.

Trunk lid: I suspect that that is for the guide and guide plate as listed in the MPC as:

GUIDE, REAR COMPARTMENT LID

(See group 12.204 and the attached picture which I scraped from the net and cropped - please don't tell on me.)

Bill: Excellent info on the use of Power Glide transmissions. As we say in the vernacular, who knew? Now I won't immediately dismiss a '53 US Pontiac with a Chevy trans in it. LOL

[Parkman51]

Rachelsdad, I have a younger relative who's currently learning to weld, so I will hopefully have reliable access to that skillset sooner rather than later. Excellent advice, as usual.

Larry, from everything you've advised, I think I'm down to two possible options for the fuel line. Either:
a) I mount the fuel filter directly to the fuel pump with an 90 degree elbow, and modify the line to connect up from there (as roughly mocked up below), or
b) I get an inline filter and plumb the whole thing with hose instead.
The only issue I can foresee with option a) is that, as the filter has some weight to it, it might not be advisable to mount it sideways, as it might put unexpected strain on either the pump housing or the rest of the fuel line when the car is being driven. Let me know what you think - if option a) looks good to you, I'll try to borrow a flare kit tomorrow and see what I can do. I have a grinder to cut the fuel line. Otherwise, I'll run with hose and call it a day. Poking around online I saw some similar-model Pontiacs up for sale with hose and an inline filter.



Today's one remaining question (since I sneaked one in already above):
1. Good news! I tested the dashboard lights today, and they work! But on the other hand, the rheostat feels a little... scratchy, it's dead in places, and turning it R to L gives a much smaller change in intensity than turning from L to R. Observe a short video of the operation cycle here (https://youtu.be/RkV3sdRnDXg) where I turned smoothly from R to L, then from L to R. Do I need a new rheostat?

[Safari Larry]

I would not mount the filter with glass bowl sideways like that. I wouldn't trust the gasket under the glass bowl unless it is mounted horizontally in the line with glass bowl on bottom. If you can't get it mounted up top somewhere in the line, I would use an aftermarket inline filter down by the fuel pump. Cut out a section of the fuel line and put in a filter connected to fuel line with short sections of rubber fuel line hose and hose clamps.

Regarding the rheostat for dash lights... the rheostat in the switch cannot be replaced. You can remove the light switch and try to clean contacts, carefully.

Often the rheostat fails completely, you are lucky that it works at all. Mine doesn't work and I put a jumper in the switch to bypass the rheostat. Now it is either on full brightness or off.

[Jack Gifford]

Originally Posted by Parkman51

... I have a grinder to cut the fuel line...

Invest a few bucks in a small tubing cutter. One of mine is only about an inch and a half long- very handy in confined spaces. Cutters don't create any debris and they leave a smooth slightly chamferred end on the tubing.They do sometimes leave a burr on the I.D. of tube, but you'll never experience such a high flow rate that it will matter.

[Bill Hanlon]

I have one too. Looks like this:

[Parkman51]

Larry, that's kind of what I suspected - that the filter wouldn't work properly on its side. I'll try plumbing the whole thing with hose for now, making sure to keep it out of contact with the engine. Modifying the new metal line will be a project for the future.

Today I studied how to replace the belts: tomorrow, I'll do an auto parts run, to pick up the handful of things I need for the fuel line and some belts. Ideally with all that done I should be able to draw gas straight from the tank and let the car idle for a few minutes.

I also sent an email to Ames, to see if they've got a replacement part for whatever-is-missing-on-the-trunk-lid.

Only one question today:
Once the fuel system is put together and functional, the only thing necessary to put the car in a driveable state is the master cylinder. If the brakes are going to need any additional work, I'd like to find that out and do it now, so that the master cylinder will be the last piece of the puzzle. I plan to have the wheels off sometime this week for new tires, so what should I check for? Is there anything I can assume I need, just by default? Obviously, I'll provide photographs once I'm in there.

[Safari Larry]

Good suggestion by Jack & Bill, get a tubing cutter. They aren't expensive & available on Amazon.

For the fuel line temporary fix, you might use the old fuel line, modify as needed with hose, maybe put in a filter.

Good luck finding that trunk lid part.

While you have wheels off, check brake linings. Check each wheel cylinder for leakage. Pull the rubber cover off slightly at bottom of each cylinder, front & back, to see if there is any fluid there. If so, a rebuild or replacement of wheel cylinder will be needed. With wheels off, it would be a good time to bleed the brakes.

[Parkman51]

This was supposed to go up last night, but I forgot to press Submit. Whoops!

Anyway, I'll go get a tubing cutter and modify the old fuel line.

As for the belts, I can get at the generator belt pretty easily, but the AC/PS belt is hard to access. According to the shop manual, the PS pump is supposed to rotate downwards to free the belt, but when I loosen the two bolts I can see, the pump doesn't budge (it's probably just stuck, but I'm not going to randomly start banging on things with a hammer unless I know what I'm doing. Plus, the bolts can only back out so far before they run into the pulley.

PS: I found a NOS windshield washer online that I purchased, that came in just this morning. I'll have some pictures of it this evening.

The two questions, therefore...
1. The inline fuel filter I picked up is noticeably smaller than the original. Is this fine or do I need a larger one?



2. And how to safely dislodge the PS pump? Shown below is the pump pulley, and you can see the bolthead behind it, along with the track in which it is supposed to rotate.

[camerjeff]

I personally would not use a Plastic bodied inline fuel filter, I have seen them crack and leak in a short amount of time with heat cycles and vibration. I would get a all metal disposable one. Granted you can not visually verify fuel flow. Bet there is much less chance of an engine fire.

[Safari Larry]

Visible filter would be nice but I would go with advice from camerjeff. I use an all-metal filter in my 56.

For removing the belt, did you loosen the pivot bolt or bolts at bottom of PS pump?

[edit] after reviewing the Shop Manual, that advice seems to be incorrect, apparently there are no bolts at bottom of pump. I don't have PS so can't advise. But Shop Manual says to loosen pump to bracket bolts (note plural).