[DogMeister]

Headers in the way, as usual. '67 GTO, 1969 400 YB block.

[steve25]

What’s best is if the motor is disassembled and you drill and tap the block for 1/2” pipe.

I believe it’s Butler who has a nice thick adapter plate that will not split and leak with the 1/2” pipe fittings .

This is the way I had to run my hoses with two 90s to clear my headers and get to the filter bracket.

[Dragncar]

Canton make a nice adapter. I am pretty sure the hole in a PMD block is not far off from the drill size for 3/8" pipe. They make # 6 AN to # 10 hose fittings.
3/8 NPT tap drill is 37/64 ", not small. I would not drill it out to 1/2" pipe unless I had to. Not worth the risk.
I had that issue with headers. I ran a K&P 35 micron screen filter. Its pretty small and your headers will fit. Then I ran a Franz by pass filter to get the small stuff.

[steve25]

Since I went into block the used 1/2” pipe to end up with at least that needed 3/8” ID of the oil passages, so I did have to grind a flare into the return side passage on the block to match the ID of the 1/2” pipe.

[JLMounce]

While I don't disagree that drilling/tapping the block is the absolute best way to go, it's impractical if the engine is in good condition and already in the car.

Nitemare Performance makes an o-ringed adapter plate that should fit the bill. You can get either just the plate, or as part of a complete kit including the lines, oil filter block and mounting solution.

http://www.nitemareperformance.com/oil.html

[Dragncar]

That Nightmare plate looks nice, but I would not use those hard 90 deg fittings that come with that kit.
Get a full flow 90 .

[VCho455]

It seems odd the kit shows one full flow 90" at the block but not at the filter. Maybe it's a bad photo in the description. I'd certainly ask about it before ordering.

[Steve C.]

Calculating the total oil capacity of your engine set up and the use of a remote mounted filter.
Keeping in mind the amount of oil inside the lines to and from the remote filter is always a good idea.

Example, my remote filter is mounted on the subframe behind right front tire. The lines have about 1/4 quart inside them.


.

[JLMounce]

My only real worry with these types of deals is not having that bypass. The large element filters with -10 lines should flow enough to not have any issues, but you get some crud in there, or end up with a filter that has some type of issue and you no longer have that bypass to save the engine.

Maybe I'm over thinking that though. These types of setup have been used for years and I'd like to use one to incorporate a thermostat controlled oil cooler as well. I guestimate that with a front mounted oil cooler, lines and addition of the 2 quart oil filter itself that total oil capacity would be around 8-9 quarts.

[Steve C.]

Choose a location that minimizes the length and bends required for the hoses. It's often best to place the filter relatively close to the engine.

[nas t eh]

Originally Posted by JLMounce

My only real worry with these types of deals is not having that bypass. The large element filters with -10 lines should flow enough to not have any issues, but you get some crud in there, or end up with a filter that has some type of issue and you no longer have that bypass to save the engine.

Maybe I'm over thinking that though. These types of setup have been used for years and I'd like to use one to incorporate a thermostat controlled oil cooler as well. I guestimate that with a front mounted oil cooler, lines and addition of the 2 quart oil filter itself that total oil capacity would be around 8-9 quarts.

Don’t most remote filter mounts take the big Ford filters that have an internal bypass in the filter? It’s one of the best reasons to go remote. Two big good filters with built in bypass. I run a pair of Fram HP1s on mine.

[JLMounce]

Originally Posted by nas t eh

Don’t most remote filter mounts take the big Ford filters that have an internal bypass in the filter? It’s one of the best reasons to go remote. Two big good filters with built in bypass. I run a pair of Fram HP1s on mine.

I actually didn't think about that. I'd feel much more comfortable that being the case.

[R 70 Judge]

It depends how much you want to spend. If you want the best it would be https://clearviewfiltration.com/product/p405-filters/ or https://clearviewfiltration.com/product/p400-filters/

I have a Clear View Filtration set-up on my TA and I'm happy with it (It is either Part # 405-115-B or Part#400-115B... I can't remember). I use Wix racing filter Part#51069R or #51060R (taller filter). I'm running -12 PTFE lines but you would probably be fine with -10. The -12 are a pain in the butt to get on the block adapter.

I'm using an old Butler block adapter but I have a new Nitemare Performance adapter waiting to go on when I get around to it. The Kauffman adapter wouldn't work with the -12 lines.

At a little lower price point, Motion Raceworks makes some nice stuff. I don't have nay first hand experience with it though.

https://motionraceworks.com/products...SABEgIWL_D_BwE

[R 70 Judge]

Originally Posted by Steve C.

Calculating the total oil capacity of your engine set up and the use of a remote mounted filter.
Keeping in mind the amount of oil inside the lines to and from the remote filter is always a good idea.

Example, my remote filter is mounted on the subframe behind right front tire. The lines have about 1/4 quart inside them.


.

For sure! There's a lot of oil stored in the big -12 lines and filter