[HWYSTR455]

The breaker bar frame bump method is what I've done for years, and I recently went thru balancer R&R 3 times in a row, it works every time. And it doesn't take a lot of effort. Just get as much slack out of it as you can and it won't slip off.

A regular crank socket works pretty good for alignment, but some sockets are bigger/smaller, can make it a challenge. The tool works very well, and also has the larger end for install, which is a bonus.

I have a Lisle seal & race driver kit that has a bunch of attachments, and used to use that, but that tool works much better. It's a dead-on fit and doesn't slide around.



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[dv657172]

Removal of the seal has went well but when I removed the Balancer it has two grooves in it. Is that normal or an issue? If its an issue whats the solution.

1965 GTO all stock

Thanks

[tjs72lemans]

If I remember correctly, the rubber seal on cover doesn't slide back as far as the groove and your good. Mine was that way too.

[Shiny]

Yours is probably fine but I'm curious how to verify the integrity of a 60-yr-old damper?

When I chased timing/idling issues I replaced the damper "just in case" the rubber and/or adhesion to metal was deteriorating and allowing slip.

I never knew how to actually verify.

Is there a way to verify?

And if the groove is a problem, is there a thin sleeve that can be installed on the damper as a band-aid? Or would such a thing be impossible to install?

[67Lemons]

Originally Posted by Shiny

Yours is probably fine but I'm curious how to verify the integrity of a 60-yr-old damper?

When I chased timing/idling issues I replaced the damper "just in case" the rubber and/or adhesion to metal was deteriorating and allowing slip.

I never knew how to actually verify.

Is there a way to verify?

And if the groove is a problem, is there a thin sleeve that can be installed on the damper as a band-aid? Or would such a thing be impossible to install?

You could verify by bringing the #1 cylinder to TDC and checking the timing mark.

They make a repair sleeve exactly as you mentioned, I used one years ago on a small block and worked perfectly, it was from Fel Pro.

[Shiny]

Thanks for confirming the repair sleeve.

If it's already slipped it makes sense the timing mark would be off.

What I'm asking is if there's a way to tell if the assembly has degraded to the point where it's not worth saving. For example, if it's close to slipping or if the rubber has degraded enough to lose "stiffness" and allow the timing mark to bounce around more than intended.

We are told to replace old tires WELL before 50 years, so I'm curious how the rubber compound in these old dampers holds up and if there's a way to know that doesn't involve specialized equipment.

I replaced mine because the timing was bouncing at idle. This was more likely because the mechanical advance wasn't stable but at the time I had a new damper and chose to just do it.

[grivera]

A new balancer is cheap insurance and you won’t have to worry about it for a long while - I replace factory originals as SOP. Good idea to check/index the replacement.