[george kujanski]

Make sure the belts are the correct width. Too narrow and thet ride at the bottom of the groove rather than the sides. They will certainly slip.

George

[Schurkey]

Originally Posted by 73ta

Get a belt tensioning tool, sometimes called a cricket. I can guarantee you that what you think is a properly tensioned belt isn't when checked with the tool! Ask me how I know.

Krikit, not "cricket". Simple, easy, inexpensive. Requires a bit of "feel" at the finger-press point, so that the gauge does not rock towards the indicator lever. Has to stay firmly towards the pocket-clip end. But once you have the knack, it's supremely easy to work with.

Multiple sources for the same product. Sometimes with different-color molded plastic parts (Yellow, blue, black, "morning sickness green", perhaps others.)

Example: KR1 for V-belts


I got mine from NAPA about thirty years ago.
KR1 = V-belts <50 to 150 pounds tension.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NBHKR1

KR2 = Serpentine/multi-rib belts. 100--300 pounds tension.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NBHKR2


For the record, NAPA's pricing is insane. Amazon has 'em for about half of what NAPA wants.

Continental (Goodyear) has a third version, for belts that require 300--700 pounds of tension. Not something I deal with.
http://www.amazon.com/Continental-El...WPW/ref=sr_1_8

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

Take a couple pics of either side of the pulleys on the engine.

It's still gonna be difficult for us to verify pulley alignment. Pulleys need to be aligned in three dimensions.
Top--Bottom of the driven pulley
Left--Right of the driven pulley
Forward/Rearward compared to the drive (usually the crankshaft) pulley.

All measurements are in relation to the crankshaft pulley. The tolerance I use is 1/8 inch for nearly all automotive applications.

[HWYSTR455]

Yeah I wasn't too concerned about pulley alignment when requesting pics, was more so wanting an overall view to see if there were any glaring issues/concerns.

Like, we could get a bird's eye view of the belts, determine series, fan and accessory setup, etc.


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[64speed]

I will get some pics posted this week. I don’t see any glaring issues

[HWYSTR455]

If you have the belts' part numbers, that would be helpful too.

Do you really need the hydroboost?




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[64speed]

I’ll get the PS belt number when I get home today. Yes I need the hydroboost. Not enough vacuum for a booster and my wife won’t drive it with manual brakes

[HWYSTR455]

Fluid wouldn't happen to be low would it? That can excessively load the pump.



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[propuckstopper]

Originally Posted by george kujanski

Make sure the belts are the correct width. Too narrow and thet ride at the bottom of the groove rather than the sides. They will certainly slip.

George

This is spot on. I had trouble with my 1968 GTO squealing the belts. I was always worried about proper tension, but never even considered belt width. My power steering belt should be .500 wide according to the 1969 Pontiac Parts Catalogue. I measured my Napa 25-7525 replacement belt (which Napa says is a proper fit) at .410 wide.

This squealing drove me crazy for awhile before I figured it out. The squealing would start about 3000 RPM.

Glad I got lucky on figuring this one out. I attached a picture here of the Napa belt before I removed it.

[64speed]

The alignment seems to be good and the fluid is full. The part number is irrelevant isn’t it cause it’s CVF setup?

[242177P]

Unless this is an optical illusion, I wouldn't call that alignment
"good". The alternator appears to be either crooked or perhaps
mounted too far back?

[TedRamAirII]

is that belt too wide? seems to be sitting up, out of the pulley.

[HWYSTR455]

As noted before, you won't be able to tell if alignment is correct via pics. The only way to know is to measure from the block machined face to the pullies, and that's not as easy as it sounds. But that might be needed in this case.

CVF V-belt setups uses 15 series belts across the board, so as long as that's adhered to, you're good.

Hard to tell if the belts are all 15 series belts by the pics.

I do see a lot of belt dust built up in diff areas, they are def slipping.

Was the system properly bled? That's one of the leading causes of hyrdroboost setups' issues.

Here's a vid of proper bleeding, there are many, you can pick whichever one you want:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ji5NtlG3Bag

It can take 60-90 cycles to bleed the system completely, so you will know if it was done or not, unless you had someone else do it. (Even then you should still check)

Hydroboost setups require a specific psi and flow rate, if that's off, it can cause excessive loads on the belts. I would talk to the supplier of the hydroboost setup and determine what the recommended psi/flow is, and contact CVF to determine what their' PS pumps ship with. If it still gives you problems after proper bleeding, this may be your' issue.

How much vacuum do you have at idle?


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[vertigto]

That's some good info about hydroboost setups that I was not aware of...thx HWYSTR455.

[64speed]

If the system needs bleeding would it function normally? I have no stopping or steering problem but I did have a low pump.

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by 64speed

If the system needs bleeding would it function normally? I have no stopping or steering problem but I did have a low pump.

Yes.

If the fluid level was low, that too could cause air to enter the system.

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[HWYSTR455]

Tank designs can also cause aeration. Foaming & leaking is a sign the tank isn't separating the air properly.

Lee Power Steering makes the best tanks I've found, but not cheap.

https://leepowersteering.com/collections/reservoirs

I ordered one for my GTO which doesn't have hydroboost, and they sent me a hydroboost model. I called then and they sent another one out at no cost. So now have an extra tank.

These kinds of parts move slowly, but if you're interested, I will make you a great deal.

https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...d.php?t=880696

I will never use it.

Bleed it, and if the issue comes back, get a better tank for it. The ones that mount on the pump are garbage. Most of the aftermarket remote tanks are fine for just putting around, but one good higher RPM blast and it can intro air into the system. Ask me how I know...

EDIT: These tanks are for Type II PS pumps, FYI...


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[grivera]

Originally Posted by 64speed

The part number is irrelevant isn’t it cause it’s CVF setup?

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

CVF V-belt setups uses 15 series belts across the board, so as long as that's adhered to, you're good.

Hard to tell if the belts are all 15 series belts by the pics.


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Dave - you should check with CVF to confirm the series belts to use with your set up.

[HWYSTR455]

Good idea. I was going by the instructions on the CVF site, which may not be current:

https://cvfracing.com/pontiac-v-belt...ower-steering/

https://cvfracing.com/content/Instru...%20Rev%20G.pdf

"If using CVF Racing Pulleys, use a Series 15 belt (13/32” wide at the top). "



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[76TA462]

This is strange. Initially just the ps then all belts. What a gremlin. Been through this (like many) and went to serpentine years ago. Not that that is the solution, and it shouldn’t be the only one! Drag on the ps belt was a cause for me. The clutch on the fan contributed. A flex fan helped. Pulley alignment was a major contributor for me that dogged me a long time as I was trying to sort this out. Lots of experimenting with the belt off and the belt on for comparisons. Later, a serious upgrade of the engine caused belt squeal at the water pump pulley and it ended up being drag, again, arghh. Hard pull on the belt, bizarre. Not the ps but still a drag thing. Went electric fan and the water pump pulley belt squeal was solved for years now. Not saying these are solutions, just thoughts that may or may not help. Usually just a belt for those who are fortunate. Oh yeah, excessive tightening is not the long term fix and can be hard on pulley bearings – I learned that with the alternator pulley. Interesting comment on the hyrdoboost. I switched to hyrdoboost later as a part of an all-around brake redo and to address the loss of vacuum after the engine build. Manual would have worked but I preferred the hyrdoboost system. The psi thing never came up with discissions with the supplier of the hyrdoboost and all has been good since putting it in 2008.

[HWYSTR455]

8" Dual diaphragm booster works down to 12" of vacuum, so you would have to have a series cam to make less than that.

Many times people don't have enough idle timing, which leaves them with low idle vacuum. Manifold vacuum on a can is the solution for those people.

When I was still doing V belts, I did a set of RARE pulleys and all was good. For the most part. I needed more amps and there's a limitation with V belts of how many amp alt you can run. For me, 140a was about the max.

Serp is the way to go, it solves many issues/limitations. But some don't want to switch to a 11-bolt cover. IMO, make the jump, it's a win-win-win solution.

March stuff is affordable. But remember, you're adding weight to the front, which is ahead of the front tires. In most cases, you need more spring to deal with it.

As for PS pump flow and psi, repop pumps are all over the place on the type 1 pumps. Type 2 pumps it's basically 3 diff ones, but you still need to know. Valving in repop boxes are all over the place too, and you basically have to trial & error it.

Hydroboost systems were designed using type 2 pumps. Some kits kits come with a type 1 pump, and you have to use that pump. I know people say you can swap valves around in the type 1 pumps, but even the go-to references are outdated.

If you upgrade to a 600 series box, those too are generally mated with a type 2 pump.

It's best if you 'know', and not just wing it. BTDT...


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