[JSchmitz]

I'm done collecting parts to put my old Muncie back in (M20). I'm probably done drag racing. So, the 400 turbo is coming out. I debated buying a TKX. I just can't justify the cost. I have 3.23 gears. So, it's not that bad on the highway. Maybe I'll put a TKX in later. I thought I'd share pics of the parts I've compiled.

[JSchmitz]

Installing the hydraulic master cylinder was more work than I had anticipated.

[JSchmitz]

I welded a piece onto the clutch pedal assembly to get a straight shot without a spacer.




Made my own pedal stop.

[JSchmitz]

The old mechanical clutch pedal hole had obviously seen some serious cycles!



My old Competition Plus shifter handle was looking pretty rough. I wanted something closer to the factory round shifter.

[JSchmitz]

My old shifter ball looked pretty shabby. Almost ordered a new one. Decided to play around with restoring it. I will probably order a new one later. It cleaned up pretty good though. I cut off a 3/8" bolt for an arbor. Polished it in the drill press. I used a fine line Sharpie to color in back in. I did more after the pic.

[Skidmark]

Nice work. Thanks for sharing.

[JSchmitz]

Originally Posted by Skidmark

Nice work. Thanks for sharing.

Thank you sir! You're welcome!

[Scarebird]

What are you going to use for the speedo signal to the PCM?

[JSchmitz]

Originally Posted by Scarebird

What are you going to use for the speedo signal to the PCM?

I have an inline speedometer cable one for the 400 turbo now. Have to look up brand/type. Don't recall.

[JSchmitz]

Doing some console repair as well. two studs were broken off. I epoxied some 1/4-20 S.S. SHCS on there. Used Devcon epoxy. The stuff is insanely strong!!!

[JSchmitz]

I have some questions about 64 4-speed consoles. Should probably post in another area. But will start here. I've owned my '64 GTO since '85. It came with this console in it. I always assumed it was the correct one. Then I saw some pics, on here, of an unrestored '64. It had a different bezel around the shifter hole. Basically a one piece top vs. separate bezel. Did all '64's have the one piece top? Also, were all painted the blue color on top and black on the base? I'm gonna try the blue and see how I like it. Looks pretty damn sharp!!! Do I have a '65 console or some other year? Some butcher hacked up my bezel. Guess I'll epoxy a piece on there and body work it.

[JSchmitz]

I splurged on buying the clutch. I hope I'm not disappointed. My expectations are high. Any experiences with the McLeod twin disc?

[JSchmitz]

Originally Posted by Scarebird

What are you going to use for the speedo signal to the PCM?

Looks like Dakota Digital.

[JSchmitz]

I found my console answers via Google search. Posted on another Pontiac forum. I searched here first and didn't find much.

"The automatic console was identical for 64 and 65 except for the paint trim". The 64 console top was painted bluish gray with chrome trim, the 65 was 60* gloss black with chrome trim.

"...the manual consoles shared many similarities. The 64 console top had a bluish-gray tint; the 65 had a black and chrome motif. The 64 two-piece console top used a gray shift lever opening cover that slid under the console opening with the movement of the shift lever. The console door was also chrome ribbed with gray trim. The 65 console top used a removable excutcheon painted 60* gloss black. No shift lever opening cover was used as had been in 64. The plastic console base was shared by both years and was painted to match the interior color. Parchment interiors had black console bases. The courtesy lamp at the rear of the console was serviced with the same part numbers as the automatic console courtesy lamp".

From Paul Zazarine & Chuck Robert's "Pontiac GTO Restoration Guide, 1964-1972".

[JSchmitz]

Originally Posted by Scarebird

What are you going to use for the speedo signal to the PCM?

I realized that I didn't need a speed sensor with the Holley Terminator X Max. I had the Dakota Digital sensor when I was running the 5.3 and factory PCM. It's been a while and I'm old. Lol

[S Courter]

I did an m20 4 speed behind a 5.3 in a 67 Chevelle 300 deluxe I built a couple years ago. It turned out quite nice. Not a powerhouse but a great car to drive.

[JSchmitz]

Originally Posted by S Courter

I did an m20 4 speed behind a 5.3 in a 67 Chevelle 300 deluxe I built a couple years ago. It turned out quite nice. Not a powerhouse but a great car to drive.

Nice! One of my favorite colors!

I'm getting closer. Gotta get the bell-housing indicated a little better. It's about .012" out. Bought some Mororso .007" offset dowels. Hopefully that gets it in tolerance. Also measure for throw-out bearing shims...

[gtospieg]

You should check the bellhousing for parallel before you check for concentricity.

[JSchmitz]

Originally Posted by gtospieg

You should check the bellhousing for parallel before you check for concentricity.

Good suggestion. I'll check that too. I would expect parallel to have a lower chance of discrepancy. I did check it with a light to make sure it was perfectly mated.

[JSchmitz]

Originally Posted by gtospieg

You should check the bellhousing for parallel before you check for concentricity.

Also suggest lightly running a large stone over mating surfaces as S.O.P. People love to pry things apart. One little dent can throw things off considerably. Although this is a brand new bell housing. The LS3 block had 41k when I got it. So was only separated, post-factory, by me.