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#1
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Is there any preference on an electric unit to use for a street application? See pricing all over the place online. I’m wanting a unit that is quiet and will do the job without engine vacuum.
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1963 Cat SD Clone (old school) streeter 1964 GTO post coupe, tripower, 4speed (build) 1965 GTO 389 tripower, 4 speed, driver 1966 GTO dragcar 1966 GTO Tri power, 4speed, barn find 1966 GTO Ragtop 1969 GTO Judge RA lll, auto 1970 GP SSJ 1970 GTO barn find..TLB…390 horse?….yeh, 390 1973 Grand Safari wagon, 700hp stoplight sleeper 525ci DCI & 609ci LM V head builds Factory stock oval track car |
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#2
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Granatteli units are nice & quiet -- and about $358 on sale through them
https://granatellimotorsports.com/i-...-410101b.html? |
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#3
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What is the altitude where you live? If it’s high enough these things don’t work well. They never reach their upper vacuum threshold, work continuously and burn themselves out.
They aren’t inexpensive, but if I was opting for any type of electrified solution for power brakes, I’d go straight to a Bosche iBooster. These are the units that go into many of the EV’s on the market, so they have oem level quality and performance. You can put one together yourself reasonably if you want to work it out yourself. There are retrofit kits available as well, but those start to get more spendy.
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-Jason 1969 Pontiac Firebird |
| The Following User Says Thank You to JLMounce For This Useful Post: | ||
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#4
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| The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to ponjohn For This Useful Post: | ||
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#5
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Quote:
Oh, had I known this little bugger existed when I was doing the brake thing... |
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#6
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Thanks for reply’s guys,…has anyone used a vac tank In conjunction with a unit to operate the ac/heater controls?
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1963 Cat SD Clone (old school) streeter 1964 GTO post coupe, tripower, 4speed (build) 1965 GTO 389 tripower, 4 speed, driver 1966 GTO dragcar 1966 GTO Tri power, 4speed, barn find 1966 GTO Ragtop 1969 GTO Judge RA lll, auto 1970 GP SSJ 1970 GTO barn find..TLB…390 horse?….yeh, 390 1973 Grand Safari wagon, 700hp stoplight sleeper 525ci DCI & 609ci LM V head builds Factory stock oval track car |
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#7
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https://www.summitracing.com/parts/leb-vp001b
I used this one in my 70 Firebird. About the same size as a factory charcoal canister. I mounted it on the passenger side core support, where charcoal canisters usually mount, so it doesn’t look out of place. Comes with enough hose to route behind the engine to the booster, and comes with wiring. I rigged up a relay to battery activated by the key-on wiper circuit. About the same sound as an electric fuel pump when it’s running, which I can’t hear while engine is running. I only notice the sound when the key is turned on to start the car, as the vacuum will leak down overnight. You could get one from a junkyard from a modern car for much cheaper, if looks are not a concern
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66 GTO, 495, M22, Strange S-60 w/4.10 Sold new at Royal Pontiac (Dealer# 07-679) 70 Formula 400/auto |
| The Following User Says Thank You to Singleton For This Useful Post: | ||
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#8
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Quote:
Yes, they hold and store vacuum at the highest source, but so does the brake booster itself. Here's the scenario that gets you. You're driving around at cruise, making 15" of vacuum and need to use the brakes. You use up the stored vacuum in the canister. Now, you're at a stop light, idling and only making 6-7" of vacuum. You decide you want to give it the beans from the light. The engine was never in a higher vacuum mode, so you don't store additional vacuum pressure. Something happens and you need to slam on the brakes...but there's nothing there to help you out. Regardless of what you choose, weather that is a brake vacuum pump, an electric booster, or manual master cylinder, please choose something that works 100% of the time in any situation you might find yourself in.
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-Jason 1969 Pontiac Firebird |
| The Following User Says Thank You to JLMounce For This Useful Post: | ||
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#9
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This is why I am a proponent of manual brakes - they just work.
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#10
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Totally agree on the cannister comment. Went through this. Did the cannister and problem not solved. Later went to a CVR electric vacuum pump with the cannister in-line and problem solved but not the perfect solution. Still wasn't happy with brake performance. I mounted it on the passenger side on the radiator support engine side. I only used the cannister because it was already installed. That was a OEM brake set-up (drums front disc back). I ultimately converted everything to Wilwood discs and at the time (2018) the Wilwood tech strongly suggested against using a vacuum pump with their set-up. So to get rid of the low vacuum problem I converted to hyrdoboost with Wilwood discs all round and all solved. Just my story on cannister use, and not promoting hyrdoboost over anything else.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to 76TA462 For This Useful Post: | ||
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#11
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I agree -- MANUAL brakes the best in the end!! Screw all this hydroboost or electric booster junk.
Manual works! |
| The Following User Says Thank You to 65madgoat For This Useful Post: | ||
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#12
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Quote:
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-Jason 1969 Pontiac Firebird |
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#13
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I have teh CVR pump, works really nice, regulates itself.
when i was in AL, no issues. when i moved to NM about 5k' elevation i had problems where the pump never went off or would pump up much. the pump has a screw to adjust for altitude and a few little turns and all is well. i don't know what would happen if i went up higher alt, or if there's a limit to them??? i did notice my vaccum pump on the engine reads a few numbers lower, and i went one pully size smaller and it restored it. i am using the corvette stype master with 1" bore and i like how the brakes respond, ever the larger bore master.. just another possible option, but probably the best/safest would be a hydro conversion. i'd love to just go full manual, but what i have is fine for my needs now. i am also using an aftermarket small dia brake booster, certainly helps with the tall valve covers i run now |
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#14
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...and don't forget the volvo unit for electric PS.
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#15
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I've got the Hella 5.0 in my GTO, 21" and it pumps up fast, faster than the UP28 I had before. Reservoir canister so you have vacuum reserves with a 1 bar sensor in it so I see whats going on.
In my GN, Leed vacuum pump, bigger similar $ than the Hella but it hits 23" of vacuum pretty fast. I have a reservoir like the GTO and a check valve on the normal brake vacuum hose in case the pump fails I get the engine vacuum.
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69 GTO Convertible, 4000lbs 462ci, 606tq/569hp - 93 oct @ 34 deg (207psi) 11.7:1, KRE H Ports, Lunati HR 282/290 w Johnson Lifters & 1.65 Scorp, E30, EFI, Holley HP + Dual Sync, 12-1 Crank Trig, 120lb Inj & 1000cfm TB, Torker II EFI Int & Rails, PTC 10", Rock Valley SS Tank, Dual 450s, Aerom EFI Reg, Aero Front & Wilwood Rear Disc Brakes, Dougs 1 7/8" & Borla Pro XS 3", Alum Rad & Dual Fans, 12:1 Box, UMI Arms & Viking Berz Fr + Rear CO Shocks, Hella UP5.0 Vac Pump, 12 Bolt, 3.73, 33 Spline |
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