[GregP]

I am having my original engine rebuilt (1969 400 RAIII). The shop is suggesting changing to a roller cam. The explanation seems to make sense, but I am wondering if I am hurting or helping resale value down the road? Is it worth doing it? I am keeping the car as original as possible, and it has all matching numbers.

[Jack Ferris]

With the flat tappet issues that some folks continue to have, the shop is probably trying to minimize potential issues. I doubt a cam upgrade will hurt value but the cam will have a little more valve train noise vs a flat tappet cam. Not all cam companies are having lifter/lobe wear issues. I prefer Crower and have had no problems with proper break in.

[SRGN]

I'd go roller if it was my car. As far as resale, I'd personally see it as a plus as a buyer, knowing it's not something to worry about down the road. Stay close to the factory duration numbers at .050, and you will be happy with the results. I believe factory was 212/225 at .050 on a 115 LSA. Butler sells a roller in their "ram air retro" series with nearly identical duration, with a little more lift.

[tooski]

The 212/225/115 is the 068 cam. I think the RA III cam is the 744 at 224/236 on 115.5 LSA. If down the road, someone wants an original, then a non stock cam will not do. That being stated, if the engine requires boring, new bearings, new pistons, then it will no longer be 'original'. Of course the engine will have to be disassembled to verify. Most likely just numbers matching will do.

[71HOT/A]

Cams this size run fairly light springs so less friction at the cam and lifters. I would run a flat tappet cam. Good break-in procedures and good lubricants and you’ll be fine. I did exactly that on the last one I built.

[1969GTO]

I too am having my 1968 GTO numbers matching engine rebuilt, the builder is in PA.
I am having a roller cam [ valve train ] installed with the original intake, carb, and distributor, crank shaft and #16 heads.

The only other change is RAM AIR Restorations exhaust manifolds.

[65madgoat]

I don't think anyone cares on even a rare RA4 or SD455 engine if you went roller cam. It is no longer "original" anyway after a rebuild. Period.

Heck for those cars an engine with no cam in it would be better suited because sadly odds are they will NEVER be driven (other than to move on and off a trailer maybe).

Build it right, put in a roller cam, and drive the hell out of it.

I would never run a flat tappet today considering all the expense of rebuilding an engine. Do it once, Do it right. DRIVE your car and enjoy it to the fullest and forget about resale value honestly.

['ol Pinion head]

Originally Posted by 71HOT/A

Cams this size run fairly light springs so less friction at the cam and lifters. I would run a flat tappet cam. Good break-in procedures and good lubricants and you’ll be fine. I did exactly that on the last one I built.

Exactly!

[JudgeZilla]

Solid Roller been in mine for years, use a stud girdle too.
Doesn't skip a beat.

Originally Posted by 65madgoat

I don't think anyone cares on even a rare RA4 or SD455 engine if you went roller cam. It is no longer "original" anyway after a rebuild. Period.

Heck for those cars an engine with no cam in it would be better suited because sadly odds are they will NEVER be driven (other than to move on and off a trailer maybe).

Build it right, put in a roller cam, and drive the hell out of it.

I would never run a flat tappet today considering all the expense of rebuilding an engine. Do it once, Do it right. DRIVE your car and enjoy it to the fullest and forget about resale value honestly.