[1_Wild_Cat]

I used the 3 piece in my 64 mainly because the perimeter metal of mine was good as were the drops.

[tempest1964]

‘Ospho is a phosphoric acid-based metal treatment that chemically converts iron oxide (rust) into iron phosphate, an inert, hard substance. It acts as a rust inhibitor and surface prep, creating a tough, paintable surface that helps subsequent oil-based paints and primers adhere securely to the metal.‘
I actually used Eastwood chassis black for my frame and was pretty happy with the results. Yours would be fairly easy since you already have the frame separated.

[OG68]

I used this Eastwood product for inside the frame.

https://www.eastwood.com/internal-fr...nozzle-nv.html

[Skip Fix]

Osphos is available at hardware stores. Pretty similar rot the Eastwood product which has phosphoric acid also. Just did my 65 floor in it last weekend.

[Scarebird]

One thing I regret not doing when I had the frame free was measuring to see if it is square. Mine was not - it was bent about 0.400" outward from an unknown crash. Would have been FAR easier to repair frame only.

[AMSOILGUY]

This makes it easier to buy parts!

[AMSOILGUY]

Originally Posted by OG68

I used this Eastwood product for inside the frame.

https://www.eastwood.com/internal-fr...nozzle-nv.html

Nice, what's with the green? Also did you use aerosol or brush on outside?
Happy with results?

[AMSOILGUY]

Originally Posted by Scarebird

One thing I regret not doing when I had the frame free was measuring to see if it is square. Mine was not - it was bent about 0.400" outward from an unknown crash. Would have been FAR easier to repair frame only.

Hmm I'll have to look into how to measure for square on the frame. Interesting.

[GtoFM]

Originally Posted by AMSOILGUY

Hmm I'll have to look into how to measure for square on the frame. Interesting.

It's in the 1st section of the CHASSIS SHOP MANUAL.

[OG68]

Originally Posted by AMSOILGUY

Nice, what's with the green? Also did you use aerosol or brush on outside?
Happy with results?

Thats just the color it comes in.
It's an aerosol with a long wand that you insert into the boxed sections of the frame. Works fairly well in my experience.
When you paint the frame it will cover any green thats showing. After priming, II used the Eastwood 2K frame aerosol for the outside of the frame.

[AMSOILGUY]

Originally Posted by GtoFM

It's in the 1st section of the CHASSIS SHOP MANUAL.

Where do you get those?

[johnta1]

Most buy them used off of ebay.
Reproduction can be bought also, here from our sponsor may still have them.
(haven't looked lately)

[tempest1964]

I believe our sponsor has them.
https://www.amesperf.com/parts/searc..._sub_rowid=404

Dang, too slow again!

[GtoFM]

Make sure you get literature for Tempest as Pontiac will reference the B-Body (big car). Also, ck out faxonautoliterature.com for publications Ames does not offer. Grab ALL manuals you can find as that is where the facts are from PMD, before improvements, of course.

[Gator67]

Originally Posted by AMSOILGUY

Lets gain 2 inches!

Worth the effort! Not familiar with that specific kit, but I believe most allow you to run 315s on a 64-76 A body. If you plan on lowering your car like the white one in the photo you posted in your thread in the lobby, I would choose brakes, wheels & tires, suspension system, rear end, and transmission and mock everything up including, at a minimum drive shaft, engine and exhaust. This way you can modify the transmission tunnel and floors to get driveline angles and ground clearance where they need to be as you are making other repairs to the floors, etc. As Scarebird suggested, get the frame squared first though. In addition to Ridetech, you could consider Detroit Speed and Speedtech.

[AMSOILGUY]

Great insight. Little more tear down.

[AMSOILGUY]

Originally Posted by Gator67

Worth the effort! Not familiar with that specific kit, but I believe most allow you to run 315s on a 64-76 A body. If you plan on lowering your car like the white one in the photo you posted in your thread in the lobby, I would choose brakes, wheels & tires, suspension system, rear end, and transmission and mock everything up including, at a minimum drive shaft, engine and exhaust. This way you can modify the transmission tunnel and floors to get driveline angles and ground clearance where they need to be as you are making other repairs to the floors, etc. As Scarebird suggested, get the frame squared first though. In addition to Ridetech, you could consider Detroit Speed and Speedtech.

Rear end I am leaning towards a 9inch. I just had somebody tell me that they are less efficient then 12 bolt. I was sort of just like does it really matter? I don't need a Dana 60 not drag racing. I'm planning on putting a 6.0 iron block in it.

[ANDYA]

On a 9 inch the pinion gear contacts the ring gear at the bottom. While the 9 inch is very strong it does require more HP to turn. A good choice if you’re not racing would be a Moser 12 bolt.

[b-man]

Consider using a Roadster Shop chassis.

It’s easy spending other people’s money I know.

Also consider using the aluminum block instead of iron, one of the best reasons to use the LS platform along with the EFI. Knocking a considerable amount of weight off the front of the car was one of the main reasons I bought the crate LS3 for one of my projects.

Ford 9” for sure, hard to argue against the ease of gear swaps, different gear ratios available and the strength of it. The couple extra horsepower it takes to turn it means nothing.

[tempest1964]

Is that right? Over $15,000 for the frame?