[70RAlll]

Originally Posted by Held for Ransom

Come back to post in a few threads.

Why did you use the green 6484244 ('73-up, think EGR) sensor instead of the correct black 6484242 ('68-72) unit?
I thought the '70-2 RA vent pipe tubes had the bend and went away in '73 (which had an angle cut on the end). Yours looks like a newer ('77-9) unit.

HFR is correct, the thermostatic sensor was black. At least they were on 70 and 71 2nd gens. My guess is green was used because the black ones are getting harder to find original. I have not looked for black ones in years, but 2-3 years ago I had difficulty finding the 3 that I bought, can only imagine they are harder to find,if at all, today. truth be told, probably doesn't really matter. No one sees these when the engine is put togather.So green,as long as it works the same, wouldn't really make any difference except for dead on originality.

[Bentwheelbob]

Originally Posted by Held for Ransom

Come back to post in a few threads.

Why did you use the green 6484244 ('73-up, think EGR) sensor instead of the correct black 6484242 ('68-72) unit?
I thought the '70-2 RA vent pipe tubes had the bend and went away in '73 (which had an angle cut on the end). Yours looks like a newer ('77-9) unit.

HFR - Merry Christmas, it's nice to hear from you. I hope everything is good in the great white north.

Bill's partially correct in that I could not find a 4242 at a reasonable price, but found two NOS 4244's at a great price. I elected to go with that since at least it had the AC logo and looked much better than the current Delco replacements. If someone has a 4242 they want to trade for a 4244 let me know.

Thanks for the knowledge on the vent tube. I already replaced it with a correct repop that I had stashed away for when I finally get restarted on installing the 455HO in the Red Car.

I've also installed the correctly stamped upper radiator hose I got from Greg and shot the air cleaner lid with 3M paint defender so that it matches the glossier snorkles. It looks much better with the high gloss. I'll try to post some pictures later.

[Bentwheelbob]

As posted earlier, I coated the air cleaner snorkles with 3m Paint Defender to prevent the ram air boots from scuffing the paint due to the friction fit. I had never used this 3M product before and have to say it is pretty cool and very user friendly. Essentially it is like a spray on vinyl coating - sort of a liquid saran wrap - that you can peel off. The product comes with a synthetic wax you apply before spraying to aid in the removal. The product cures to a high gloss and once I did the snorkles, and did the test on the extra lid, I decided to do the lid I am using because the paint was much less glossy than the snorkles. Well the lid looks great and frankly the high gloss looks much better under the hood than the flatter finish it had. Also as mentioned above, I got the correctly marked radiator hose courtesy of Greg "165th" and it is now installed. Here are a few pictures including a couple showing the 3M Paint Defender being peeled off the extra lid. I will definitely use the 3M product once the black car is painted.

[Bentwheelbob]

I've had a few posts about the master cylinder needing to be refinished. The astute viewer may have noticed on yesterday's post the big spot where paint has lost adhesion and gone awol. Well, we pulled the master cylinder this morning to bead blast and refinish it, but upon pulling it found that the piston was leaking. All in all, upon getting it off it is an ugly mess. Steve had recently had it rebuilt, so it will be sent back to the shop that last touched it for another attempt. Nothing is easy. Here's a few pictures.

[Formulabruce]

This is why I always convert to Dot 5...
I have seen dot 3 eat through powder coat
The original crappy Alkyd Enamel ( vegetable oil based paint) paint didn't last long in this application, as put on thin, low resin, just to prevent rust at time of sale.
Should be able to nail it down anyways and make it right.
Finish: a Brake "weathering chart" for Alkyd enamel
New: gloss black 80%
1 year old semi gloss black
2 years old Spots of semi gloss and flat black
3 years old Flaking and spots of flat black and small spots of semi gloss
4 years old whats left mostly ruined by brake fluid in most areas and rusty looking
Good luck! Its winter, good time to nail this stuff down!

[70RAlll]

That Master looks like sh!t, no idea why it would have been done that glossy.. As far as the leaking..I think I have an idea why it is leaking. It is clear the bore has been sleeved with a brass liner.Two materials are used as sleeve liners, stainless or brass. Both work well, but the brass can be hard on the new seals when installing them. If you don't lubricate the rubber seals on the primary and secondary pistons during re assembly you will end up ripping them while installing them. I bet if you remove the primary and secondary pistons you will find some of the seals are ripped. I have used both stainless and brass sleeves- never seen a sleeve job not work...always the seals not the sleeve work. Brass always damages the seals if they and the bore are not heavily lubricated when assembling. NAPA or Ames/PY's will sell you a kit that has the new seals, simple to replace. And for the black paint, go on Amazon and search Rustoleum Semi Flat Black. That is the closest shade and quality paint, costs +/- $10 a can. That gloss just looks out of place in the engine compartment. Seems like someone's good idea gone bad on that black gloss finish..

[Bentwheelbob]

Originally Posted by Formulabruce

This is why I always convert to Dot 5...
I have seen dot 3 eat through powder coat
The original crappy Alkyd Enamel ( vegetable oil based paint) paint didn't last long in this application, as put on thin, low resin, just to prevent rust at time of sale.
Should be able to nail it down anyways and make it right.
Finish: a Brake "weathering chart" for Alkyd enamel
New: gloss black 80%
1 year old semi gloss black
2 years old Spots of semi gloss and flat black
3 years old Flaking and spots of flat black and small spots of semi gloss
4 years old whats left mostly ruined by brake fluid in most areas and rusty looking
Good luck! Its winter, good time to nail this stuff down!

Bruce - I love your "Chronology of Correctness" on the master cylinder finish. Your right about winter being a great time to catch up. I've been doing a lot of catching up over the holidays, having abandoned most of my work responsibilities. In addition to tooling around on some of the nit picky stuff on the Black Car, I have hung the Pontiac sign that I bought at Mecum last May (isn't that pitiful being that lazy), and also done a few things on the Green Truck that has its' own thread in the lobby. I have an electrical problem on the truck and if any of you electrical experts have any good advice I would appreciate the help. Here are a few pics of the "new" sign and the link to the truck thread. The last truck post #89 highlights my electrical issue.

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...=727561&page=5

Originally Posted by 70RAlll

That Master looks like sh!t, no idea why it would have been done that glossy.. As far as the leaking..I think I have an idea why it is leaking. It is clear the bore has been sleeved with a brass liner.Two materials are used as sleeve liners, stainless or brass. Both work well, but the brass can be hard on the new seals when installing them. If you don't lubricate the rubber seals on the primary and secondary pistons during re assembly you will end up ripping them while installing them. I bet if you remove the primary and secondary pistons you will find some of the seals are ripped. I have used both stainless and brass sleeves- never seen a sleeve job not work...always the seals not the sleeve work. Brass always damages the seals if they and the bore are not heavily lubricated when assembling. NAPA or Ames/PY's will sell you a kit that has the new seals, simple to replace. And for the black paint, go on Amazon and search Rustoleum Semi Flat Black. That is the closest shade and quality paint, costs +/- $10 a can. That gloss just looks out of place in the engine compartment. Seems like someone's good idea gone bad on that black gloss finish..

Bill - I love the way you get right to the point. No doubt what you are thinking. That's a good thing. My Pal Dave had the same diagnosis as you on the master cylinder and was anxious to tear into it to see what they screwed up. However, since it's only been 6 months since White Post rebuilt it we'll let them have another crack to get it right on their dime. Thanks for the paint recommendation.

If I don''t have any other minutiae to post before New Years, here's my best wishes that everyone have a happy and prosperous New Year. My life is enriched by having the PY online community to help me when I am on the wrong track and to tolerate me when I want to share my successes. Thanks guys.

[Bentwheelbob]

How cool is this....So My Pal Dave has a buddy that got to clean out all the parts inventory at a local auto repair place several years ago courtesy of the owners widow. This place had been in business for at least 40 years. MPD's buddy has just been tripping over about 12 totes of parts every since then, so MPD cut a deal to send the totes over here for some basic sorting. More laziness on my part as this was last spring, but finally I am on the case. The first tote I started through today has an NOS GM door handle for the Black Car. This is a part that will be needed for the big paint transformation, so I am feeling particularly celebratory. I am about out of GM parts in the 4 totes I have here, so this is probably my big score. The stack you see in the picture are the parts that I think have some value. I believe the best course is to call a couple of the internet shops that carry obsolete NOS parts and see if they have an interest. Does anyone know any of these folks well enough to make an introduction or recommendation?

[70RAlll]

Originally Posted by Bentwheelbob

How cool is this....So My Pal Dave has a buddy that got to clean out all the parts inventory at a local auto repair place several years ago courtesy of the owners widow. This place had been in business for at least 40 years. MPD's buddy has just been tripping over about 12 totes of parts every since then, so MPD cut a deal to send the totes over here for some basic sorting. More laziness on my part as this was last spring, but finally I am on the case. The first tote I started through today has an NOS GM door handle for the Black Car. This is a part that will be needed for the big paint transformation, so I am feeling particularly celebratory. I am about out of GM parts in the 4 totes I have here, so this is probably my big score. The stack you see in the picture are the parts that I think have some value. I believe the best course is to call a couple of the internet shops that carry obsolete NOS parts and see if they have an interest. Does anyone know any of these folks well enough to make an introduction or recommendation?

Yes I second that. Chuck Henley deals in these NOS parts but he is a Pontiac guy thru and thru.Owns the 69 GTO RAV that was a dealer race car,originally a RAIV that dealer ordered the V and used for racing. That's just one of his cars, so that is the best place to turn these NOS parts into cash.AT least in my opinion.

[The Boss]

Chuck Henley, I'll text you his number. He's got a ton of 2nd gen F-Body stuff you could trade with him on as well.

BTW, anything in that pile I could use?

[Bentwheelbob]

Thanks. I have no idea what you can use, but given that you basically have a small car lot that is rapidly approaching hoarder status maybe. Some time when you have a day or so of free time list all the cars you currently own and I'll try to do a cross reference.

Happy New Year Chris. I hope you and the boys have had a good holiday.

My Best,

Bob

[The Boss]

Originally Posted by Bentwheelbob

Some time when you have a day or so of free time list all the cars you currently own and I'll try to do a cross reference.

Just a couple of goats & birds in the barn here Bob, nothing special.

Happy New Year!

[OVERULD]

Bob, you might also check with Rob Lozins in Chicago. He has a ton of second gen parts as well. PM me if interested and I'll get you his contact info.

BJ

[Formulabruce]

Have put together a couple of these with friends, and always use a small car and run it up and down a bunch of times to level the cables and stretch the cables too. I have feared this would happen a couple of times. Glad your ok, car is ok, and Im surprised the seller didnt just opt to replace the cylinder. Yours looks just like the "Tech Lift" .
thanks for posting

[FunctionalShaker]

That lift doesn't look very strong. Glad a disaster was averted.

[72TAMAN]

Holy crap how in the hell did you sleep that night I know even if I try to I wouldn't be able to sleep till that beauty was safe on the ground

[West Coast GTO]

Very glad you car is O.K.
I have wanted to buy one of these to make working and maintenance under my car easier. One question: does the manufacturer recommend or even require that the post bases be secured to the garage slab? Here in California, that would be essential due to the possibility of earthquakes but may not be common practice where you live.

A good friend here installed one similar to yours and had to have an x-ray company come out to x-ray the post cable tension garage slab before he could install anchor bolts. That was a good thing because right after the install, we had a 4.0 quake and the car rode that out like a champ!

[165th]

Wow, that must have been un-nerving. Glad everyone is safe, and the Indian Iron is not poking out the garage. I love your garage!

With the addition of the second 4 post, It looks like your making room to add to the nest!

[The Boss]

I was beginning to wonder if these pics would ever get posted!

New lift looks good!

[Judge273]

Proves that plumb and level is the best structure. They still work and hold a car in that mode is wild. Sorry it happened on your car. Dealer came thru quick?

What blew out again the plunger gasket? Any leaks beforehand? Any pix of that or causes? I know those are tested before delivery too..