[nodwyer]

Yes I think they are tack welded in for whatever reason from its past life. I see a small weld. I hope i can grind them out or something, Removing the headers seems like a lot of work

[rexs73gto]

If they are tach welded in you may be able to grind off the tach weld so the bolt will then slip out. If not you can also cut the bolt of in the arm & then beat the left over out of the bracket for the arm. Once you get the bolt out then you will need to replace them with new ones & hope they don't turn in the holes that are there now.But once you grind off the tach weld you should be able to tap them out.

[nodwyer]

Thanks for all the help so far, im almost there. I was able to cut the bolts to remove the control arm from the car. Ive removed the upper ball joint and took out the bolts connecting the rod? to the arm..What is this rod called and how does it remove from the bushings.
Ok i found the name of the rod- upper control shaft

[nodwyer]

I did a search on the removal of the shaft and it looks like it wont come out without the removal of the bushings. Does that get pressed in along with the bushings. I plan on getting the arms powdercoated.

[nodwyer]

One oval and one round bushing in lower arms is this normal

[Joel Koontz]

It is not abnormal.

Some have two round and some have one round and one oval. I am not sure which configuration was most common.

[arcitech]

Originally Posted by nodwyer

One oval and one round bushing in lower arms is this normal

For 66 the one oval is most common. I had to send back a bushing set because it said for 64-67 A-body, but the 66 Temp/LeMans/GTO were almost all of the Oval variety for the lower.

[nodwyer]

Does it matter which direction the control arm shaft goes back in. They marked it when it came out but will be difficult to see the marks once i get the arms coated. Both sides look the same to me.

[geeteeohguy]

the '65 and earlier bushings were round. '66 up were oval on the back. nodwyer, you are asking very basic information here. You should get a GM chassis book for your car to better understand the system you are working on. The shafts must face the frame a certain way, but front to back, doesn't matter. Center links wear out and are not rebuilt. The most common issues with these suspensions are: worn center link, worn idler arm (causes slop in steering), bad upper control arm bushings (caused by exhaust heat and wear and tear), worn tie rod ends, lower control arm bushings, and ball joints. The items that need to be replaced every 60-100k miles ;are the center link, idler arm, and upper CA bushings, in my experience as a line mechanic. Contrary to what Ventura 455 says, the alignment shims effect BOTH caster and camber, and adjusting one will affect the other so you need to know what you are doing. An alignment rack is needed and a wheel alignment needs to be performed after you get the new parts on the car. Be advised that any one modification usually results in several other related systems that must now be modified to work with the modification you started out with. Have BTDT with the F body spindles on a '65 GTO and they came off after a week. Terrible handling, and terrible alignment angles. The magazine article raving about the swap was absolute hogwash.

[nodwyer]

Thanks Jeff, I do have a manual which i try to reference and Do searchs on info before I ask. these forums are great for some of us that dont work on cars all the time but would like to save some money and gain experience

[Ventura455]

Originally Posted by nodwyer

Thanks Jeff, I do have a manual which i try to reference and Do searchs on info before I ask. these forums are great for some of us that dont work on cars all the time but would like to save some money and gain experience

I would not install the stock shafts. Buy the offset shafts that Moog offers and you will be able to get the alignment where you want it. GlobalWest also offers an offset shaft to improve alignment. Contrary to what geeteeohguy says I never said anything about shims not affecting caster or camber...

[Joel Koontz]

Originally Posted by nodwyer

Does it matter which direction the control arm shaft goes back in. They marked it when it came out but will be difficult to see the marks once i get the arms coated. Both sides look the same to me.

It depends on which shafts it currently has in it.

I think the stock shafts are asymmetrical and could be installed in any orientation.

If someone has installed offset shafts(fairly obvious if you examine the shafts) you will need to install them the correct orientation, usually with the offset toward the motor. Over the years the frame on many of these cars will "sag" in the middle pulling the upper control arm mounting points nearer to the center of the car.

Usually the offset shafts will compensate for this problem, but if it is severe, they sometimes "pull the frame" on these cars by chaining the frame down near the upper control arm mounting points and then jacking it up in the center to try to restore the factory specifications.

[nodwyer]

Originally Posted by Joel Koontz

It depends on which shafts it currently has in it.

I think the stock shafts are asymmetrical and could be installed in any orientation.

If someone has installed offset shafts(fairly obvious if you examine the shafts) you will need to install them the correct orientation, usually with the offset toward the motor. Over the years the frame on many of these cars will "sag" in the middle pulling the upper control arm mounting points nearer to the center of the car.

Usually the offset shafts will compensate for this problem, but if it is severe, they sometimes "pull the frame" on these cars by chaining the frame down near the upper control arm mounting points and then jacking it up in the center to try to restore the factory specifications.

The shafts are being coated along with the arms so I cant look but i think they were straight shafts but I did have quite a few shims in there,more toward the back of the car. Does that mean i would be better off with an offset shaft. Ive read some info and it seems there are different opinions on that

[Joel Koontz]

If you removed the shafts, I think you would have noticed if they were offset.

IIRC the offset of the shafts is about 3/16". It will let you reduce shims by the amount of the offset.

If your old bushings are worn, new bushings will probably reduce the amount of shims needed to some extent, but if you currently have more than 3/8" of shims behind each bolt, the offset shims would probably be a good idea.

As long as you can get the desired alignment specs, I am not aware of an negatives to using offset shafts. Generally speaking, the less shims, the better.

[nodwyer]

I just got my a arms and shafts back from the powdercoat. I didnt notice before but there is a letter H on one of the control arm shafts and the letter B on the other. I dont know if i will reuse them or go with the offset shaft that has been recommended. Anyone no what the letters stand for. Thanks

[Nicks67GTO]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

Hm, that's odd, what body style was that on, an X or something? Like I said, I got a set for the clone, work great, no problem with alignment. Granted, it is a 68-72, but believe they are the same for 1st gen A bodies.

They are a little heavier than stock, but that's the point, the stock flex like crazy, and crack. Especially with added side loads.

.

Im pretty sure the lowers are the same for 64-72 but the uppers are different in 64-67 and 68-72

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by Nicks67GTO

Im pretty sure the lowers are the same for 64-72 but the uppers are different in 64-67 and 68-72

Yeah, I honestly can't speak for the 1st gens, have no personal experience with them. I do know that Global West lists uppers that fit 64-72, but they may provide a different shaft for the 1st gens.

.