[Squidward]

Front end is 95% done. It's back on 4 wheels, even tho I am waiting for the PS upper control arm. The DS showed up today, so I installed it. It came completely pre-assembled, which was awesome. I did have to loosen up the cross-shaft nuts and re-tighten them once I had weight on the front end.

The right side UCA has been lost in shipping from Rockauto. SMH... It says it was lost by the carrier. Why they didn't put both control arms in the same box is beyond me. Smells like BS...

The 5372 front springs are giving me the ride height I want. It's not that the previous springs gave a bad ride height, but I just wanted to replace them while doing the job.

The UMI 1.25" front sway bar was an easy install, and fits great. I might have to cut down the sway bar end link bolt. It interferes with the upper spindle knuckle when I jack up the frame and the suspension relaxes.

On to the rear suspension for next week's project: rear shocks, rear control arm boxing, and sway bar install. I will have to install new rear control arm bushings, too.

[Squidward]

Rock Auto refunded my right UCA. The final story is that it was out of stock. This isn't the first time I have heard that song and dance from these guys. Not sure if I will ever go with them again. I will have to get a right UCA elsewhere.

I decided to forego the "boxing" of my original rear lower arms. I had already bought the inserts, but I figure after welding, drilling, and replacing bushings I won't be far away from the cost of buying some new ones. And I get to save all of the PITA of making worn original stuff work. So the inserts are being returned for these:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/upi-4015-b

[Mister Pontiac]

That's a shame about the missing UCA, Squid. I've not done any ordering from Rock Auto, but glad you mentioned their shenanigans. I'll keep an eye on that if I ever need to order from them in the future...

Looks like you stepped up to some nicer arms out back! I would agree with your assessment of welding the inserts into the old arms. I've done it before, but doubt I'll ever do it again. (Unless of course originality is the only consideration then) Last time I bought new ones myself. Bolt in/out. Easy Peasy.

[Squidward]

Since I needed a new control arm before getting new front tires and alignment, I searched for the right side UCA. Rockauto came up, so just for S&G's I clicked. Sure enough, now they have 5 in stock. Price was good, and I was pleased with the quality of the left one, so I popped on it.

Strange to say this, but I hope it was something as simple as inventory mismanagement, and nothing more nefarious. We'll see.

The UMI rear LCA's have arrived. They look like good pieces - nice finish, strong, well made, and grease-able urethane bushings. I will probably put these in this weekend with the rear shocks.

I think we're in the same space, Todd. Not getting younger, and finding that it isn't worth it to save a few bucks on a DIY project when it costs you significant time and hassle!

So... question for those using the rear sway bar that bolts to the LCA's... Is it important to use shims/spacers/washers in between the LCA and sway bar? I see that factory style LCA/sway bar combos use a shim, but the UMI directions say nothing about needing one. If I end up with slight gaps, I might use washers to take up the space.

[tjs72lemans]

I'm not sure Rock Auto stocks anything. I ordered some things recently and they came in three different shipments. I think from different places. Anyway, I ordered upper and lower MOOG ball joints for the Lemans. Looked at one of each in the boxes when they came and looked right. A week later I go to put the lowers in and the one used looking box had a smaller ball joint as well as the plastic package opened and the castle nut missing. I had to run to the local parts store to get another, since I had a friend coming over to help put the suspension back together with me. Frustrating.

[Squidward]

Yeah... Seems like ya win some, ya lose some with those guys.

Rear LCA's, shocks, and sway bar are in. Install was pretty good, except for breaking loose rusty dirty hardware that hadn't been broke loose since 1972. The UMI parts are sweet. LCA's dropped right in, and the rear sway bar bolted up like a dream. I am soooooo glad I am not currently welding and drilling factory control arms for a sway bar mount!

The GM engineers who decided the mounting configuration for the upper rear shock mounts should be punched square in the ballz. Seriously? Not even a j-nut for the upper shock mounting bolts? Ugh.

[Scarebird]

Originally Posted by Squidward

...The GM engineers who decided the mounting configuration for the upper rear shock mounts should be punched square in the ballz. Seriously? Not even a j-nut for the upper shock mounting bolts? Ugh.

Remember the shocks were installed BEFORE the axle was placed and the body drop - so access was from the top.

[Squidward]

Seem strange that they would make a wear part tough to change out. I'm gonna bet that these shocks don't get changed out again. I chased the nuts and bolts with tap and die. I put the bolts in from the top, and the nuts on from underneath. This was a task I never wanted proficiency with. I hate working under cars.

New right side front upper control arm due to arrive tomorrow. Then it's new front tires, alignment, and we'll see how this thing handles!

[Squidward]

Control arm is installed. I'm getting pretty good at this.

Question: The UMI front sway bar end links (you know, between the sway bar ends and the LCA) use a 3.75" spacer tube. I just measured the factory end links, and the spacer tubes were 3.00".

Do you see any issue with cutting these spacer tubes and bolts down a little? I ask because the bolt ends bind with the upper spindle/ball joint when jacking up the front end. This occurs as the wheels relax downward. For those running aftermarket bars, how long are your spacer tubes?

I might give UMI a call and get their input, too.

Thanks!

[HWYSTR455]

At normal ride height, the end of the sway bar, where the bushing rides, should be parallel to the ground. So you choose/adjust the end link to achieve that.

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[Squidward]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

At normal ride height, the end of the sway bar, where the bushing rides, should be parallel to the ground. So you choose/adjust the end link to achieve that.

.

I contacted UMI, and they said their end link spacers and bolts are a little long on purpose. They said go ahead and cut if needed.

Thank you for that point of reference (parallel to ground). That gives me something to shoot for. Other than that, I'd be shooting for "short enough to not hit the knuckle". I will see if the stock size 3" spacer is the magic bullet, and I will adjust bolt size accordingly.

[OG68]

I also have a front 1 1/4 front bar. I ordered an Energy Suspension adjustable link bar from Summit. This gives different sized urethane bushings to adjust the bar.
I then ran the bolt from the top to avoid any interference. I apologize for the photo orientation.

[Squidward]

Originally Posted by OG68

I also have a front 1 1/4 front bar. I ordered an Energy Suspension adjustable link bar from Summit. This gives different sized urethane bushings to adjust the bar.
I then ran the bolt from the top to avoid any interference. I apologize for the photo orientation.

Dammit! Sometimes the best answer is so simple!

Now I feel dumb. Thank you. I will try that. My bar with 3.75 spacer tube is parallel with the ground under load. Like, seriously... I am laughing at myself right now because of the mental gymnastics I did over this.

I looked at the 72 Service Manual, and it shows the nut on top, but the stock sway bar with the 3" spacer is shaped differently - so likely not a problem in stock apps. But this aftermarket stuff... Another benefit of putting the nut underneath the LCA is that I can trim the bolt threads easily if needed. UMI saild I didn't necessarily need tighten the bolt until it hits the bolt shank, but the service manual actually says to tighten the nut to the bolt shank, kinda like a factory rocker arm nut.

Cool. I will probably do this right when I get home from work.

New tires and alignment to follow. What are you guys doing for alignment specs? I'm thinking stockish (maybe a 1/16th) toe, -.5 to -1 degrees camber, and 1-2 degrees positive caster.

[Squidward]

I flipped the sway bar end link bolts, so the threads go through the LCA. Good mod.

New problem crept up from this job. The driver side front sway bar bracket has a stripped hole. Grr! That hole is a PITA with the steering box attached there. I gotta figure out a plan to get a nut up there, or possibly weld a nut in the frame. I've seen a number of suggestions on the Chevelle sites.

[HWYSTR455]

Just to toss it out there, the knock-off tubular upper and lower control arms for the front are only $250, but you do have to replace the ball joints.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-6...11Cr:rk:1:pf:0

If the control arm area where the ball joints go are sloppy, the control arms are toast, and need to be replaced. LCAs are notorious for this, and when on the ground, look at the orientation of the ball joint and control arm, make sure it's not being pushed out of the hole.

You need to tighten the end links so the bushings squish a little, so the action of the bar responds immediately. If it's loose, not only might it not provide any benefit from the bar, but they can rattle/bang too.

.

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by Squidward

I flipped the sway bar end link bolts, so the threads go through the LCA. Good mod.

New problem crept up from this job. The driver side front sway bar bracket has a stripped hole. Grr! That hole is a PITA with the steering box attached there. I gotta figure out a plan to get a nut up there, or possibly weld a nut in the frame. I've seen a number of suggestions on the Chevelle sites.

There's a couple fixes for that. One is to use a thread-sert, the other is a plate that has nuts welded to it, which slips in the front of the frame horn.

Sometimes the frame/etc is in the way, and you can't slip the end link bolt in from the top. In those cases, you can only do it when both bolts are out, before you tighten them. (The bar has to move up & down, then orient both ends before installing nuts)

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[Squidward]

I went to the hardware store and found some thinner 3/8-16 nuts that were about 3/16" thick. I hit the bottom of the frame at the holes with an abrasive disc to prep for a quick weld. I then threaded a nut onto a 4" bolt, and threaded that bolt into the frame hole. I welded the nut to the frame, and removed the bolt. The aft hole on the driver side was the hole initially in need of repair, but the passenger side forward hole was also going way south. So I did the same thing to all 4 holes. Now I need some 3/16" metal plate to go between the frame and each sway bar bushing to make up for the 3/16" spacing due to the nuts.

I feel much better about this repair. It seems like the holes were just waiting to strip out.

Getting any kind of plate/nut assembly was going to be dicey. The steering box bolts are right there in the way of the driver side aft hole. I figure this was easier, and significantly stronger than the factory configuration.

[Squidward]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

Sometimes the frame/etc is in the way, and you can't slip the end link bolt in from the top. In those cases, you can only do it when both bolts are out, before you tighten them. (The bar has to move up & down, then orient both ends before installing nuts)

.

Here is where my new repair comes in handy. I can drop the bar by removing the bracket bolts, and the sway bar end links will tilt forward with the bar as it is lowered. This gives me clearance from the UCA to stick the bolts in/out from the top. And I no longer have to worry about shredding the bracket holes with the self tapping bolts!

[HWYSTR455]

I'm sure the reason the factory screw them right into the frame was due to cost/convenience, but it certainly could have easily been handled with captured nuts or something for a nominal cost.

Thread-serts sit flush, but the steel ones, which would be recommended in this app, require the larger, more expensive tool.

There is a type that is splined, you drill a pre-determined size hole and bang it in, but I've seen those over time work loose.

.

[Squidward]

I looked at thread-serts. But there were a couple of problems that I imagined. The frame metal at the bad holes is thin, which caused the problem in the first place. I wouldn't have much metal for the thread-sert to bite into, so I figured I would have to cut or drill a little notch and drop in a weld bead at the thread-sert/frame interface. The other issue is that the thread-sert required a tap size I didn't have. On top of that, the thread-serts were $6.50 each. My skinny nuts were 40 cents each.

I just got back from the metal store, and got a 3/16 metal piece for $2.00. I will use this to make spacers, which will get the sway bar bushing surface flush with the welded nuts.

Incidentally, the additional 3/16 spacing from the frame will help get my sway bar arms closer to "parallel".