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Hikin Mike · 10-28-2019, 05:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 78w72

did it have this issue the last time(s) it was driven? if not, i wouldn't think the oil filter had anything to do with it after just sitting for awhile. but its one less unknown now.

another possibility, since you're running 20/50, did the temp drop any since the last time it was driven? colder temps will make thick oil read higher psi for longer. i see you are in cali, but i know the temps can change quite a bit this time of year depending on location. your weather shows low temps in the mid 30's recently... it could be the engine got very cold & the 20/50 oil was just very thick compared to what you're used to during the summer with lows in the 70's? i live in iowa & right now temps can fluctuate a lot & i notice my oil gauges reading higher/longer than in the warm summer temps. a 2nd gauge is good to check, but if this didn't happen before, it could just be temp & oil related.

unless you're engine is really warn out or built loose like a race engine, i dont think you need 20/50 oil. 10/40 or 10/30 if its keeps good psi is all thats needed for a stock-mild street engine & will have some benefits mentioned above.

I'm pretty good at watching gauges as they are located on the cowl panel. It was around 3:30pm and maybe 70 degrees. It was a short trip, maybe 5 minutes. Parked it for about 1.5 - 2 hours and drove home.

Will try and borrow a gauge. It's possible I'm just not remembering things. It's happen before...

Dragncar · 10-28-2019, 05:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hikin Mike

I use Fram filters and I use the port by the distributor. Will change the oil before I do anything else.

FWIW, The car sees maybe 2000 miles a year. The current filter was purchased probably 15 years ago (car was parked for 10 years), so it is an older version of Fram...if that makes a difference.

Get the Fram out. I have run Nappa Wix 1049 forever and never had a issue. Cut apart a Fram and you will see.
But the Race Frams are a different deal just like the race Champion plugs are a different deal too.
Stay away from the cheap garden variety 2 piece Champion plugs too. Had 2 of them fall in half, one electrode might have went through the engine. It was gone.

78w72 · 10-28-2019, 07:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hikin Mike

I'm pretty good at watching gauges as they are located on the cowl panel. It was around 3:30pm and maybe 70 degrees. It was a short trip, maybe 5 minutes. Parked it for about 1.5 - 2 hours and drove home.

Will try and borrow a gauge. It's possible I'm just not remembering things. It's happen before...

it's not really about watching the gauges, its that the engine/oil may have been colder than normal with lows in the 30's recently. getting to 70 from a cold night in the 30's still leaves the thick iron block much colder than 70. & a 5 minute trip did not get anywhere near fully warming up the oil to drop psi. very possible it was just thick "cold" oil keeping the gauge higher than when fully warmed up in 70-80+ degree weather.

even in the 60's & low 70's my oil gauge on my 60psi pump will read close to 80 for awhile after first start up & idle psi will be 40+ untill 15-20 minutes of driving to fully warm up the oil. just something to consider.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dragncar

Get the Fram out.

he changed to a wix.

Hikin Mike · 10-28-2019, 07:08 PM

I bought a cheap oil pressure gauge and it showed the same pressure.

Now what?

78w72 · 10-28-2019, 07:13 PM

warm it up fully & check the readings again. it takes quite a bit longer to get the oil hot than when the temp gauge reaches operating temp. next step i would do before pulling parts is to change the oil to something a little thinner & see if it changes the psi back to what you consider normal.

Hikin Mike · 10-28-2019, 08:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 78w72

warm it up fully & check the readings again. it takes quite a bit longer to get the oil hot than when the temp gauge reaches operating temp. next step i would do before pulling parts is to change the oil to something a little thinner & see if it changes the psi back to what you consider normal.

I agree.

Hikin Mike · 10-28-2019, 08:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 78w72

it's not really about watching the gauges, its that the engine/oil may have been colder than normal with lows in the 30's recently. getting to 70 from a cold night in the 30's still leaves the thick iron block much colder than 70. & a 5 minute trip did not get anywhere near fully warming up the oil to drop psi. very possible it was just thick "cold" oil keeping the gauge higher than when fully warmed up in 70-80+ degree weather.

even in the 60's & low 70's my oil gauge on my 60psi pump will read close to 80 for awhile after first start up & idle psi will be 40+ untill 15-20 minutes of driving to fully warm up the oil. just something to consider.

he changed to a wix.

Looks like you posted at the same time and I just saw this.

HWYSTR455 · 10-29-2019, 07:54 AM

The Summit Racing mechanical gauge is $22 new, is a full-sweep face, and closely resembles the AutoMeter 'style'.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g2934/overview/

Skip a beer & cheeseburger at the pub one day and order.

If nothing else, you could use it as a reference, and keep it in a box for future use.

.

Navy Horn 16 · 10-29-2019, 09:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hikin Mike

I use Fram filters and I use the port by the distributor. Will change the oil before I do anything else.

FWIW, The car sees maybe 2000 miles a year. The current filter was purchased probably 15 years ago (car was parked for 10 years), so it is an older version of Fram...if that makes a difference.

Fram is absolute garbage (check out the video below). That filter is almost certainly the cause of your problems.

Get a Wix or Napa Gold filter.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iTNJLEV8CG8

78w72 · 10-29-2019, 09:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Navy Horn 16

Fram is absolute garbage (check out the video below). That filter is almost certainly the cause of your problems.

Get a Wix or Napa Gold filter.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iTNJLEV8CG8

he posted that he changed to a wix & it does the same thing...

GRNMTGOAT · 10-29-2019, 09:56 AM

Driving home last month the oil pressure failed to increase with revs,occasionally it would jump up and stay ok until I idled again,then it would stay low. I was having a nervous fit with only 500 miles on new rebuild. I am running Rotella 15-40 ( the old stuff with zinc) . I got home and took off the filter,K&N,cut it open,clean. Called Ames for a new sender, fitted it,problem solved.

78w72 · 10-29-2019, 10:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GRNMTGOAT

I am running Rotella 15-40 ( the old stuff with zinc)

kind of off topic, but rotella oil has had lowered zinc levels since 2007, anything sold today is NOT what the "old" stuff used to be. however, all oils still have zinc (zddp) in them, just lowered amounts compared to what they were before the catalytic converter regulations.

KEN CROCIE · 10-29-2019, 02:27 PM

Steve25: X2.
No filter cutting tool? That's what a hacksaw is for.

Bruce Meyer · 10-29-2019, 03:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by steve25

The good news at the end may be that you had a small item of crap from day 1 keeping the pumps check Ball unseated thus lowering the pressure and it has cleared out now!

I bet this is it.

HWYSTR455 · 10-29-2019, 03:01 PM

I missed you tried another gauge, my bad.

I've used a utility razor/knife to cut filters open, just wear a glove. But a cutter is a tool you will find you use more often than you think, once you buy one. I use it for just about every oil change, even on OE newer cars.

Back when I ran OE cranks and rods, I ran tighter clearances, in the 18-22 range, and my hot idle was about 40, 60 at cruise/WOT. I ran 10-30 tho.

Any idea what your clearances are, mains & rods? What crank and rods do you have? How many miles on the engine, total?

I dunno, not sure I would worry about too high a psi, unless it was very high. What steve25 mentioned is totally plausible. Check ball could have been hung from day 1. Build info and miles may help determine that better.

.

Hikin Mike · 10-29-2019, 09:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

Any idea what your clearances are, mains & rods? What crank and rods do you have? How many miles on the engine, total?

I dunno, not sure I would worry about too high a psi, unless it was very high. What steve25 mentioned is totally plausible. Check ball could have been hung from day 1. Build info and miles may help determine that better.
.

Not a new motor. I did the motor 25+years ago. Not really sweating the high pressure. Better than low or no pressure, IMO.