[Formulabruce]

You have an email.
Link here
http://paceperformance.com/i-6485769...r-package.html

[Alvin]

Slight off topic: Any links to where I can purchase press-in conversion to screw-in Pontiac stud kit? Looking for one of those old school kits that can be used with heads still in car and by removing valve covers, rockers, etc. only and was described as tap threader tool, matching srewin studs etc. Thxs in advance.

Return to topic: "Bent Wheel Bobs Excellent Y88 Adventure!"

[Formulabruce]

Originally Posted by Alvin

Slight off topic: Any links to where I can purchase press-in conversion to screw-in Pontiac stud kit? Looking for one of those old school kits that can be used with heads still in car and by removing valve covers, rockers, etc. only and was described as tap threader tool, matching srewin studs etc. Thxs in advance.

Return to topic: "Bent Wheel Bobs Excellent Y88 Adventure!"

Since the base of the Pontiac thread in stud is 7/16. It would make sense to go to a Big Block chevy straight type 7/16 stud so they can be adjusted easily like a chevy. BUt either way all you need a 7/16 bottom tap and the right number drill ( I have that info). I have used that conversion you speak of on a 71 head. The Pontiac threaded end of a stud will give you the depth and the amount above that is the total height including the nut. Hope this helps, FB

[Alvin]

Originally Posted by Formulabruce

Since the base of the Pontiac thread in stud is 7/16. It would make sense to go to a Big Block chevy straight type 7/16 stud so they can be adjusted easily like a chevy. BUt either way all you need a 7/16 bottom tap and the right number drill ( I have that info). I have used that conversion you speak of on a 71 head. The Pontiac threaded end of a stud will give you the depth and the amount above that is the total height including the nut. Hope this helps, FB

Project is 1973 4X 400 factory stock combo. Had been told that Mr. Gasket or (?) some company had a kit that included studs, taps, etc. to do the simple changeout. Reading Internet posts suggest machine work & other much more elaborate and detailed work needed?

Goal is to "Keep It Simple" with the changeout to retain #s matching & look. Perhaps I should just pull them send to SD...there goes that "mission creep?!!!"

Let's get Bob's Y88 thread back on track...

[Bentwheelbob]

Well, after further consultation with Bruce it's obvious the stock type rocker nuts won't work with these PRW rockers. I have ordered some comp cam poly locks that are about 1/8" to 1/4" shorter and hopefully those in concert with a 5/16" valve cover gasket will do the trick. If not, I have also ordered a 3/8 billet spacer just in case.

Could someone check their car please and let me know how much clearance there is between the stock valve cover and the bottom of the pre-heater elbow. I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks.

[Alvin]

Here's same from Ames

[Alvin]

Something tells me that modding the elbow (trimming it to make it shorter from where it mounts to air-cleaner on a "spare plastic piece") would be the easier solution?

[Bentwheelbob]

I've ordered the 3/8" spacer already since I think it will likely be need to clear the rocker locks. That will, however, raise the valve covers which is why I am worried about clearance. Hopefully it won't be needed, but if it is I hope that a thicker carb to pan gasket will do the trick.

[Alvin]

Originally Posted by Bentwheelbob

I've ordered the 3/8" spacer already since I think it will likely be need to clear the rocker locks. That will, however, raise the valve covers which is why I am worried about clearance. Hopefully it won't be needed, but if it is I hope that a thicker carb to pan gasket will do the trick.

Of coarse as soon as I typed my prior post on this thread thought came to mind that for every elevation change made to valve covers also requires tweak to carb spacing which requires double-checking shaker-to-hood opening clearance...etc. etc.

[Bentwheelbob]

Things have slowed down a little here due some incoming rounds at my real job, and a few other things, however, there has been a little progress. I just received the shifter back from Dennis Maroudas who owns DME LLC and specializes in rebuilding shifters and transmissions. It cost about ~$270.00 to have the shifter mechanism rebuilt, and to have the mechanism and shift rods recoated. It looks great. Also, the 3/8" billet spacers have arrived and are installed. To limit the potential for clearance issues with the preheater elbow and AC brackets we decided not to use a gasket under the spacer. Instead a bead of black rtv was applied and the spacer was clamped down with some homemade studs to compress it and hold it in place while the rtv sets up. Here's a few pictures...

[Held for Ransom]

So what was wrong with the shifter other than it was grimey and needed to be disassembled, cleaned and relubed? And you're OK with him phosphate plating the trunions?

[Bentwheelbob]

Hey Mike. Happy Easter.

You pretty much covered it. 37 years of grease grime and a severely dysfunctional rear main seal. Shifter seemed to work fine, but it needed disassembled, cleaned, lubed, and any worn parts replaced. I was far enough out of my comfort zone on this, and short enough on time, that it made sense for me to send it out to have it done. Would have preferred the trunions not be phosphated, but I have so far decided that I don't care enought to pull the assemblies apart and clean them up.

[Alvin]

For the learning impaired (such as myself) http://www.hurstshiftersonline.com/1...ST_4_Speed.PDF

[Bentwheelbob]

Alvin - That's a nice schematic. Don't suppose they also have the adjustment procedure for the ST10 shifter and linkages to do they. I've been assuming this is in the service manual, but haven't had a chance to look yet.

[Alvin]

Originally Posted by Bentwheelbob

Alvin - That's a nice schematic. Don't suppose they also have the adjustment procedure for the ST10 shifter and linkages to do they. I've been assuming this is in the service manual, but haven't had a chance to look yet.

How about a "How To Video" instead? Check it out ==> http://youtu.be/yaQwPQTenMg

And there's always instructions from the mfg http://www.hurst-shifters.com/pdf/3738609.pdf

[Held for Ransom]

Originally Posted by Alvin

For the learning impaired (such as myself)

Sorry about that. Looks like I spelled it wrong too.

Bob, stick a 1/4" drill bit in the hole at the bottom center of the shifter housing. Then turn each rod (loosening the trunnion nuts first), in or out, until they fit on the lever slots (making sure they're centered in neutral). Actually, I guess it's in the diagram. And the rods probably don't need turning, just the nuts.

[berrygoat]

I doubt you will be able to use the passenger side AC bracket that bolts to the manifold with those VC spacers. The triangular one. Without it you will probably get a serious belt squeal. Hopefully I'm wrong.

[Bentwheelbob]

Originally Posted by berrygoat

I doubt you will be able to use the passenger side AC bracket that bolts to the manifold with those VC spacers. The triangular one. Without it you will probably get a serious belt squeal. Hopefully I'm wrong.

Thanks BG, you are a real ray of sunshine. Hah, hah...

Yeah, I'm a little concerned about that, but I hope a few extra washers and a modest modification to the compressor stud or rear bracket hole will provide necessary clearance. I only need 3/8".

[Alvin]

Something tells me that you and MDH "ain't skeered" and will figure it out

[berrygoat]

Originally Posted by Bentwheelbob

Thanks BG, you are a real ray of sunshine. Hah, hah...

Yeah, I'm a little concerned about that, but I hope a few extra washers and a modest modification to the compressor stud or rear bracket hole will provide necessary clearance. I only need 3/8".

Sorry BWB, just trying to save you time and aggravation. One more "ray of sunshine". on the drivers side the Air Cleaner will be pushed up on the plastic elbow for the preheater tube. I have the thick RAIV gaskets on my 77 W72 with AC and they slightly throw off the alignment on the passenger side vent tube and that preheater elbow. PITA. Good luck, the car looks Fantastic !!!!

That triangular bracket alignment is extremely important. I had a serious belt squeel from the AC and it took me a year to figure it out. I cleaned and sanded the groove on the pulleys, changed belts a few times etc. It ended being I didn't follow the sequence in the service manual. I finally left the triangular bracket loose, tightened everything else up then wrenched down on the two bolts on the manifold. No more squeel.