[67drake]

Originally Posted by 95ramairformula

Great news Drake. Did you use stock pushrods with the heads being milled .060? Did you mill the intake side .060?
Post the track times when you get them.

Stock pushrods and rocker arms were used after valvetrain geometery was checked, and verified they would work. The engine builder also milled the intake side.
I plan on going to the local track next Wed.,so I'll post some times here when I get back. I just have to figure out how to get a good launch with this 4-speed,and not grenade this stock original rear end!

[67drake]

Took my 71' GTO to the track tonight.First time out since the engine rebuild. Went OK,I guess. I was predicting 14.0 @ 98. My best was a 14.66 @ 97. w/ a 2.35 60'. Most of my 60' were around 2.5.
I do not have a tach,so launching and shifting consistantly is tough with a 4-speed.I did buy a 5" tach over the winter,but I tried to put it in today,too big to fit on my steering column.Anybody looking for a used speedpro tach with a shiftlight? LOL
Had pointbounce at higher RPM's,so I tried to see what speed to shift at using the speedo,this helped.
I advanced initial timing from 12 degrees to 16,and this upped MPH about 2,and knocked about .3 off ET. I would have advanced more,but I'm afraid of detonation.
Tried to back off airflap adjustment on my Quadrajet secondaries 1/4 turn,but that created a slight bog off the line,so I put it back to original setting before the next run.
These Sears "weatherhandler" white walls (no,I'm not kidding) have got to go! I'll get some new meats when I burn these ones off.Also,I left the stock breakerpoint ignition/coil in there to see how it would do,and because I blew my budget,for now,on the engine rebuild. But I will try at least a Pertronix when I have the $$.
I'll have to play around with it a little I guess. I figure the times were not TOO bad,but I thought it would be a little faster.
Drake

[screamingchief]

Nothing wrong with points,just dont use the light tension OE sets,use the 32oz. (accel) or 38oz. (mallory) high-performance point sets and they should not bounce till upwards of 6500+ RPM's.

OE points use 22oz. tension springs and will usually start to bounce around 4500 RPM.

Full race points use 48oz springs,but those will wear the rubbing block real fast in street use,and will need frequent adjustment for dwell,and obviously more frequent replacement as well.

Also avoid the UNI point sets with the integral condensor,those suck IMHO too.

Standard ignition also offers the HD point sets too,,,they're in the "blue streak" line,,,that is if you can get a part guy who knows how to look them up...

Truth is most all the "jobber" (B/W,AC-Delco,etc.) ignition parts suppliers offer these high perf. point sets,but they're just not all that common anymore,and most parts guys are totally clueless these days to that fact.

A good coil does'nt hurt a points ignition either.

In about 80% of high performance "street" applications I could easily make a points car with $50.00 to $75.00 worth of stuff run just as good as the same car with a $500.00+ ignition system installed on it,it'll start just as easy,run just as hard,keep the plugs just as clean,the only caveat is the eventual need to maintain the points as they wear over time,there the electronic ignition systems will often have an edge.

[67drake]

Good idea. I just have some generic "Autozone" type points in there now. I'll see if that will help.
It was kind of frustrating,because the higher the RPM I shifted at,the better my ET,BUT, if I went a little too far,the points would bounce (maybe around 5000 RPM ?),and KILL my ET for that run. So it seems as if there may be a little more ET there if I get the bounce bug out.

[67drake]

Ordered the Accel #110128 32 oz. set today from NAPA,should be here Sat. I'll see how this works out for me.
Thanks Bret