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#41
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VIN stamp from 68 engine I have. Original engine. Matches VIN. Engine never removed.
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'68 GTO 4-spd Hardtop (11) '68 GTO Convertible AT (1) '70 LeMans Sport Land of Lakes Muscle Car Classic Facebook Event Facebook Wall (Kurt Smith,Minneapolis) |
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#42
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#43
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#44
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Chris,
Thats a bummer. That does not look like any factory stamp I have ever seen. Also doubt its a SR block. I read his ad and he states its a numbers matching car. I hate to say this but he did not claim its the original engine and he is correct that is a numbers matching car with a crappy restamp. I dont know what you could do legally. Before you go and pull the ac unit out to check to see if its the original body post some pics of the door jams and the inside of the trunk. Its probable just a bad motor stamp. The only thing you could sue him for is fraud which is a civil suit. Yes it sucks but at least you did not pay a ton for the car. If you would have paid mid to high 20's for the car than that would have been a different story. See if you can get some money back from him. |
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#45
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#46
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I want to see a picture of the mullet. I have not seen a good one in a long time. If you think the car is a rebody thats a different story. I have not pulled a ac suitcase out but I'm sure some of the guys on the forum have without removing the fender. You can get in the inner wheel well out without taking off the fender. If its a rebody dont dump any money into the car. Give it back.
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#47
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One place to look for an SR stamp is seen in the pic in the other thread where you can see the rad hose on the left. I've seen them stamped on the corner of the block in the area that looks black in the picture. Again, he should verify what this block is by removing the front accessories and cleaning it followed by careful inspection. if the face milling is "correct" all the way across and there's an SR, at least he knows what he's got. Typically a car with an SR block --or in the chevy world an "acknowledged" restamp--(lol Z-28 guys) is advertised as NOM. Numbers Original Matched/ing iirc on that nomeclature. I've seen "bread and butter" SR blocks --i.e. from catalinas etc. that look like this one stamping-wise on the VIN. I've also seen bare--never installed -- SR RAIVs , 421s and others that are blank --no EUN, no VIN, no letter coding just SR and the block casting dates and numbers---including the reground portion on the RA IV casting numbers. If the original owner blew this one up very early in its life, honestly, i wouldn't be too concerned if it was an SR. The factory ground off and stamped the RA IVs just so the casting numbers matched the original to avoid owner claims. I believe it was oldsmobile that was sued in the late 60s over cylinder head casting numbers not matching published specifications on some of the new cars they sold--GM got very conscious about parts id and performance cars as a result. There's another thread going about ground and restamped heads--despite all that's said there--those may be legit. But i digress--sorry. ;~) The lack of a match with the transmission on the other hand is what really messes up the seller's claim of originality. Also to answer someone else's question above, SRs technically had to be stamped with a VIN on installation for legal reasons--so that it matched the car it went into. Prevention of later fraud or theft claims.
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#48
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Also, 2 pictures showing the gold body pictures.. what does everyone think?? |
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#49
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I'm waiting on the attorney to call me back and advise me on how to proceed from here. The good news is that the #'s on the rear diff are correct. The bad news is that the guy with this mullet and standard issue can of beer is the likely culprit who stamped my VIN! It is all starting to make sense now
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#50
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I do see the screens in the scoops in that first pic.............
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#51
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Dang Bill,
you beat me to it! lol
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#52
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I think its a original blue car someone painted gold. Floors look fairly solid. Tail panel looks like it had some work.
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#53
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It looks like it had a color change from Blue to Gold at some point. Notice how there's still Blue paint under the side window weather strip area & the sill trim. Also in picture #1 the cowl section behind the fenders is still Blue, another indication that was the shell's original color. That area would never get paint on it in a color change unless the front fenders were off. Another area to check would be the trunk hinge area under the filler piece between the rear window & decklid, more likely than not that has Blue under it too.
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#54
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Some more pics of the body pre-restoration
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#55
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Its a blue car so I would not spend my time pulling the ac unit.
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#56
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Cool, thanks Chuck. Any ideas what this part is? I can't find the part #. 217 could be the trim code and 70 the model year if it's some sort of VIN. I think maybe it's the subframe
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#57
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Just an observation here: The vin # appears to have some of the (original?) paint. If that part is fake, they went to a lot of trouble to authenticate. Also, factory stampings were done by humans, not machines. You see exceptions to every rule.
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#58
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Subframes' assembly date, 2-17-70.
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#59
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Yep, rear, outer portion on the driver side. Looks like the trans and engine block are the extent of my damages.
can anyone estimate the cost of a YZ block and PQ trans in good rebuilt condition? |
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#60
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I just thought of something for you. Each State has a Department if Insurance and Commerce(at least TN they are combined).. Call the Florida Dept of Ins/Commerce and file a complaint. This falls under the commerce definition and they can be quite persuasive if teh seller doesn't work with you. I still say check the hidden VIN..The engine is just so sloppy, I would have to see it before I waould be comfortable-but that is my..I am suspicious by nature... Calling the Dept. of Commerce couldk save you hiring an attorney, who will take betwen 1/3-1/2 of whatever you get(legal crooks...) I used this with an Insurance Company years ago and with in 2 days I had an apology call and my check overnighted.. Just a thought... |
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