[60man]

If you are talking about the traffic jam at Norwalk. Yep,possible to build some heat there. Never could understand why they can't punch the damn run cards after you get in the staging lanes. ??
A real cluster freak IMO.
I'll shut up now.

[slowbird]

What is your temp when you leave the pits? What is your temp after a run and your back in the pits?

[242177P]

Originally Posted by slowbird

What is your temp when you leave the pits? What is your temp after a run and your back in the pits?

It's details like this that matter. That and... are you using a mechanical water pump?

If the temperature climbs in the staging lanes (after you shut down the car) it's because heat transfer doesn't just stop real sudden like.
If you're worried about this "phenomenon"... well, aluminum heads just make it worse.

[lust4speed]

Originally Posted by 67cruiser

...What would be the value on a radiator like mine???...

From what you say, yours won't cool properly - scrap value for the brass

Try waiting for a little over two car lengths before moving up, and then cut power after you start moving and coast up to the car in front of you. Only thing that should get hot in the staging lanes is your starter.

[chiphead]

Originally Posted by Mikes455Wagon

Switch to alcohol, problem solved. This thread has caused me to switch to alcohol.

^^ THIS

Rich, I think I remember telling you in a different thread (over a year ago) about when I switched from a used desert cooler to a PY 2-core aluminum downflow radiator. My engine temps dropped from 200-210 to 170-180 rock steady. A 2-core aluminum will work better than a desert cooler, if the rest of the system is working correctly.

One item on my setup that caused me problems was the use of the 8-bolt water pump. Those are much less efficient at moving water than the 11 bolt at low engine speed. I would switch to 11 bolt pump and the '70 accy system from a Lemans/GTO for better cooling at low speeds. You can keep the '67 PS and Alt bracket by using the '70 balancer and '70 AC pulleys.

Here is what I am going to do on '67 when I get it back together:
PY 2-core alum radiator
11-bolt water pump and timing cover
clutch fan with AC (not HD) clutch
fan shroud
'70 AC pulleys
'67 PS pump and alternator bracket
160 T-stat

[67cruiser]

160 temp when i leave pit area, get to staging lanes up to 185 start car couple times to move up, some idling involved, climbs to 200-205 even thru the run. 200-205 back to parling area after run.Thanks again chiphead i probably forgot about the messgae.Chiphead this last summer i switched front end of motor to 1970 stuff, pulleys and Racing balancer, water pump pulley is Super Duty repo. These are the temps. im getting.

[Probird]

Get an electric water pump and run it in the lanes along with the electric fan till it gets back down to 160.

I like the long drive up to the lanes to get the car warmed up. The only time I have to cool the car in the lanes is during the round robin part of the eliminations. I'm on alcohol too so that helps if I need to hold the temps where they are. I drive to the lanes on gas but if the temp gets to 160 before I get up there, I switch it over to alcohol to maintain it there. And I only run the car when it's time to move. Shut it off if the traffic jam isn't moving. I do have a griffin aluminum radiator too though. It works a lot better than the stock one.

[chiphead]

When comparing copper vs aluminum for heat transfer, the material's heat transfer properties are overrated. It's the aluminum's strength which allows for larger tubes spaced closer together for more *total* area for heat exchanging. The more surface area you expose to cool air will cool the water better.

http://www.caparadiator.com/aluminumvscopper.html

http://www.hotrodhotline.com/md/html..._vs_copper.php

http://www.cgj.com/2013/07/16/alumin...inal-thoughts/

[67cruiser]

Chiphead & Probird, Thanks for the advice!! Im listening. Cannot afford a electric waterpump right now.

[Rob B]

Originally Posted by 67cruiser

Chiphead & Probird, Thanks for the advice!! Im listening. Cannot afford a electric waterpump right now.

Well when you can, spend that money on the electric pump first, not the aluminum radiator.

[67cruiser]

Rob. correct me if im wrong but then won,t i have to buy some sort of auxilliary fan for the radiator then. Don,t want to get in over my head then. Never did this before. Bigger Alt. to????

[Half-Inch Stud]

Originally Posted by Flyin79bird

Try a T-stat. I drive my car to the lanes...down the track and back to the pits and it never gets above 170. This is with 15:1 compression, straight water and a gutted T-stat just to give it enough restriction. BTW...I have a 3 core copper radiator. Nothing fancy.

I too have a 3-core brass Harrison, from a72 LeMans. it was is such good clean condition in&out that I sold me 4-core & never looked back.

[Probird]

Originally Posted by 67cruiser

Rob. correct me if im wrong but then won,t i have to buy some sort of auxilliary fan for the radiator then. Don,t want to get in over my head then. Never did this before. Bigger Alt. to????

It'll cool faster with a fan but it's not a must.

[AG]

You will need an electric fan if you use an electric WP. I use a Meziere water pump, aluminum radiator and Mark VIII fan and works great, Car cools down in several minutes if I run the pump and fan without motor running.

[Rob B]

Rich, you can go spend $200-$500+ on an aluminum radiator and not change anything else and still have roughly the same results your getting from your Brass radiator. Or you can go spend $300-$400 on an electric pump, another $100 (or less) on an electric fan, and $50 in wiring and relays to do it nice, clean and Correct. Do all that and keep your brass radiator, you'll get the cooling results your looking for. THEN if you want to spend more money, go get that aluminum radiator you have your heart set on buying in the first place.

But the best thing to do is save the money and maximize your current set up with a restrictor or a $10 thermostat like everyone has been telling you from the get-go.

[60man]

Try a Moroso electric fan drive motor. Glorified heater blower motor with mounting brackets. Belt drives the water pump with pulleys. There are still lots of guys using this system. Then you still bolt a "lightweight" fan to hub. I did that for years on my 11 second motor. I could keep motor cool in lanes and pit cool down without running motor. Not sure I have pics. Wouldn't use for street.

[Half-Inch Stud]

Assuming an ELECTRIC FAN & a Brass or Aluminum Radiator;

Is the crank-pulley-driven water pump more reliable than brush-motor-driven?

[chiphead]

I did a quick search and some Meziare (sp?) water pumps are listed as good for 2500 hours of runtime. If you ran the car every day for 3 hours, that would be about 2.5 years.

My issue is how to run the PS and alternator if you're running an electric water pump. The pump is gonna pull 8 amps and the fans will draw 25-35 amps. I ran big dual BE-COOL fans on my car for a summer and I HATED it. Never did cool properly. Ran warm at highway speeds, drained the battery in the staging lanes, made a bunch of noise, etc. Yes I had it wired correctly with a 40A relay and big wires. I switched to a clutch fan and never looked back. As it is, I have had to install a high output CS-130 alternator to keep up with my other electrical loads like Mallory ignition, fuel pumps, nitrous system, relays, etc.

Only problem I've had with a clutch fan is using the HD clutch. The fan load at high RPM makes the fanbelts start slipping.

[Probird]

If you get an electric water pump don't walk off talking and forget to turn it off. It will run the battery down in short order. Been there done that. Here is what I did to fix that problem. Get a spring wound timer, like you would use on a bathroom exhaust fan, and run the pump through it. I just turn it to about 5 or 10 minutes and can leave it without worrying about forgetting to turn it off. I also run the fan through the timer and a separate switch in case I need to run it with the pump and it shuts off with the timer too.

[Mikes455Wagon]

Rich, from my personal experience, aftermarket electric fans do NOT do the job nearly as well as OEM fans. If you have a salvage yard near you, head to it with a tape measure and find a factory electric fan that won't be too much trouble to mount. It will probably cost you less than a fan from summit or jegs and perform much better.