[HWYSTR455]

Like I said, call a machine shop, see who they use, or ask someone at a shop to ask the tool truck guy who they use. Maybe ask an airframes & pp person, see who they use. They probably have a service, if you have a friend, ask them to submit on your behalf.

Call Butler or Dave at SD, see who they use. Shoot, you could probably yellowpages it.

.

[Will]

I guess all I had to do was Google "torque wrench calibration Seattle" to find a couple local places that can do it.... You'd think I'd know how to do that by now.

[hurryinhoosier62]

Originally Posted by GRX

Figured you would respond when I used the "A" word. Thanks for the info. It was something I read in a tooling forum. This was inherited from my father upon his passing. Figured he acquired the wrench during his stint as a machinist for Boeing.

Far as storage - always thought it was torque wrench 101 to unload a spring type before storage unless manufacturer instructions said specifically not to do so. For many of the larger ones this means down to the 20-lb setting to prevent the ball can fall out of the detent. Does not apply to newer digital electronic types of course.

Every article I've read points to Boeing using Sunnen torque wrenches in the 1940s and 1950s. ALL of the torque wrenches we dealt with in general and corporate aviation were "zeroed" after use. My old mentor ALWAYS "zeroed" his torque wrenches. God help you if you borrowed one of his and didn't.When I worked at JET, Bob(our in-house torque wrench/micrometer inspector) would raise o holy hell IF he found a torque wrench still under tension after use.

[HWYSTR455]

That's Snap-On's recommendation, to be at the bottom of the scale, but in some cases, that's not 'zero' or 'zeroed'. Some start a 20ft lbs, or more.

All I know is that it shouldn't be backed off all the way to the bottom, past the scale or bottomed out. Or that's what's locked into my head. Since mine are Snap-On, I will 'adjust' my 'head-lock' to the above process pulled from Snap-On themselves.

.

[hurryinhoosier62]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

That's Snap-On's recommendation, to be at the bottom of the scale, but in some cases, that's not 'zero' or 'zeroed'. Some start a 20ft lbs, or more.

All I know is that it shouldn't be backed off all the way to the bottom, past the scale or bottomed out. Or that's what's locked into my head. Since mine are Snap-On, I will 'adjust' my 'head-lock' to the above process pulled from Snap-On themselves.

.

My interpretation of "zeroed" is to ZERO (on the scale) or its lowest indication. My 1/2" drive torque wrench starts at 25 ft/lbs., so I reset it to 25 ft/lbs.

[ANDYA]

For general repair work such as suspension parts I use a Craftsman click type torque wrench that I've had for the last 25yrs. I always store it back to it's lowest setting and it still looks brand new although I've never had it calibrated.

For building engines I purchased 2 Warren Brown deflecting beam torque wrenches. One is 3/8 and the other 1/2 drive. They are made in Australia and very unique in design in that they don't have any parts that will go out of calibration with normal use. I actually spoke with the manufacturer who claims they are the most accurate torque wrenches and would put them up against any brand torque wrench. He said that he has tested his companies torque wrenches that were in use for 30-40 yrs and still perfectly accurate. If handled with care they will always stay calibrated.

[Schurkey]

Originally Posted by ANDYA

I purchased 2 Warren Brown deflecting beam torque wrenches.

Interesting. They've made a genuine improvement to the $10 "American style" deflecting-beam torque wrenches. Like the American-style, they don't need calibration, and they're reasonable accurate. The Warren & Brown web site doesn't have much for info or photos, though. I'm guessing there's no ratchet at the end.
http://wbtools.com.au/products/defle...rque-wrenches/

[hurryinhoosier62]

Originally Posted by ANDYA

For general repair work such as suspension parts I use a Craftsman click type torque wrench that I've had for the last 25yrs. I always store it back to it's lowest setting and it still looks brand new although I've never had it calibrated.

For building engines I purchased 2 Warren Brown deflecting beam torque wrenches. One is 3/8 and the other 1/2 drive. They are made in Australia and very unique in design in that they don't have any parts that will go out of calibration with normal use. I actually spoke with the manufacturer who claims they are the most accurate torque wrenches and would put them up against any brand torque wrench. He said that he has tested his companies torque wrenches that were in use for 30-40 yrs and still perfectly accurate. If handled with care they will always stay calibrated.

Did you purchase them directly from Warren & Brown or do they have a U.S. distributor? From what I've read, they build a quality wrench.

[ANDYA]

Originally Posted by Schurkey

Interesting. They've made a genuine improvement to the $10 "American style" deflecting-beam torque wrenches. Like the American-style, they don't need calibration, and they're reasonable accurate. The Warren & Brown web site doesn't have much for info or photos, though. I'm guessing there's no ratchet at the end.
http://wbtools.com.au/products/defle...rque-wrenches/

Yes, that is correct, they do not have a ratchet at the end. I was told by the manufacturer that a ratchet is one more thing that can break so they leave it off.

[ANDYA]

Originally Posted by hurryinhoosier62

Did you purchase them directly from Warren & Brown or do they have a U.S. distributor? From what I've read, they build a quality wrench.

It's been awhile, but I purchased them directly from Warren Brown. At the time they had an international price that was cheaper than buying them in Australia.

[hurryinhoosier62]

Originally Posted by ANDYA

It's been awhile, but I purchased them directly from Warren Brown. At the time they had an international price that was cheaper than buying them in Australia.

Thanks. When I converted the Australian price into USD it came in at $150. Not a bad price...

[rexs73gto]

I bought my Snap-on click type about 35 years ago & it has never been sent in to be checked & tested, but I've bought some cheap ones & checked it against my Snap-on one & it is right on with all of them & I have 4 of them now. But I always unwind it to back past 20lbs until it stops moving & store it in the box it came with. I use it for TQ only & have never dropped it or has it fallen of of any surface. I like my Snap-on click type as it has been a good working tool for a long time.Also most of the dealer around here charge $ 125.00 to have it sent in & calibrated.

[Schurkey]

Originally Posted by hurryinhoosier62

Thanks. When I converted the Australian price into USD it came in at $150. Not a bad price...

As long as you recognize that the underlying technology is EXACTLY the same as the deflecting-beam torque wrenches available from SK, KD, Craftsman, and many others, and commonly listed "used" on eBay for ~$30, or available new from SK via Harry Epstein for $60.
http://www.harryepstein.com/index.ph...que-28771.html
http://www.harryepstein.com/index.ph...que-28772.html

I've got 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2 drive deflecting-beams that I use for dynamic torque measurement--the 1/4" is used to measure rotational torque of rear axle assemblies, the 3/8 is typically used for assessing the torque required to rotate the crank 'n' pistons of a freshly-rebuilt short-block, while the 1/2" readily measures the break-away torque of most main cap and head bolts.

While the ("American-style") deflecting-beam torque wrenches are wonderfully accurate, repeatable, and don't require calibration, they require considerable care and a bit of skill to use them properly. In short, for actually torquing bolts, they flat-out suck. I hope the Australians have improved the usability of the American-style deflecting beams. If they have, they've got a great product. Failing to include a ratchet head is an indication, to me, that it's still more about "cheap" than "good"--but I'd love to use one a few times and see for myself.

Originally Posted by rexs73gto

I bought my Snap-on click type about 35 years ago & it has never been sent in to be checked & tested, but I've bought some cheap ones & checked it against my Snap-on one & it is right on with all of them & I have 4 of them now. But I always unwind it to back past 20lbs until it stops moving & store it in the box it came with.

That's not how Snap-On recommends you store it. You are supposed to turn it to the lowest INDICATED TORQUE, not beyond the lowest torque so that it's "off the bottom of the scale". On my 3/8" click-type, that's 20 ft/lbs, while on my 1/2" click-type that'd be 50 ft/lbs. This is for "micrometer adjusting" "click-type" units. The somewhat newer-design split-beam torque wrenches can be stored at any torque setting, the downside to them is that they cannot be used in the reverse direction.

Originally Posted by rexs73gto

most of the dealer around here charge $ 125.00 to have it sent in & calibrated.

As said in an earlier post, I know of (and posted links to) two different companies that will test 'n' calibrate your (click-type) torque wrench for about fifty bucks plus shipping. After thirty-five years, you're due for a proper servicing.

[ANDYA]

The Warren Brown torque wrench is definitely not cheaply made. It is heavy and if you saw it in person you can tell that it is high quality. I am a contractor by trade and very anal when it comes to tools as I always spend extra to get the best available. The lack of a ratchet mechanism is definitely a PITA. This torque wrench is better suited for precise work where time is not an issue. It wouldn't be that great in a production style shop.

It is differs from an "American-style" deflecting beam torque wrench in that you don't have to read a scale as you torque a bolt. It has a spring loaded pin that you must reset before you torque each bolt. When the correct torque is reached the pin makes an audible "pop". Like I said, not great for speed but very accurate. I only wish us Americans would have come up with this unique idea.

[hurryinhoosier62]

Got an e-mail from Warren & Brown early this morning. Wilmington Instrument Co. is the U.S. distributor for their (Warren & Brown) torque wrenchs as well as CDI wrenches.

[TedRamAirII]

Get a adapter like this and you can "ratchet" your beam torque wrench. https://store.snapon.com/Ratchet-Ada...r-P646913.aspx

[dataway]

http://calibration-services.calcert....=100|1014|1317

[Blued and Painted]

My snap on 1/2" drive, click type, cam operated torque wrench was factory recalled. the ratcheting head was replaced with non selectable head. Then re-calibrated. It only tightens.

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by Blued and Painted

My snap on 1/2" drive, click type, cam operated torque wrench was factory recalled. the ratcheting head was replaced with non selectable head. Then re-calibrated. It only tightens.

What years/models does the recall cover? Would you happen to have more info on that?

.

[Schurkey]

Originally Posted by Blued and Painted

My snap on 1/2" drive, click type, cam operated torque wrench was factory recalled. the ratcheting head was replaced with non selectable head. Then re-calibrated. It only tightens.

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

What years/models does the recall cover? Would you happen to have more info on that?

They sold you a ratcheting model, which presumably was advertised to torque in both directions, then they installed a ratchet head that won't allow you to torque in the reverse direction?

I'd want compensation for that loss of utility. More realistically, I'd want another torque wrench.