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RAIV-Z · 04-16-2012, 08:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jdw_poncho

I built my front and mid plate mounts with the stock block and everything fit when I bolted in my IA2. I didnt have my trans at the time so I built 6C after everything else was put in.

Something you might ask about, will the 6 bars be angled up to the rocker bar to clear your exhuast? If you havent already figured that out I would strongly suggest getting a mock up block and route your exhuast before he welds your inner 2A-B and 6 bars.

Since Im running the car on the street I still have to figure out exhaust placement. I dont think I exhuast running through the fender wil pass MO's safety inspection.

What trans are you using? I bought a JW Ultra HP T400 rated at 2800HP.

Got a mockup stock block and turbo400 case at the shop. I talked to Mike about exhaust placement on Saturday. The 6 bars are going to be angled up, I'll have to ask about 2A-B.
Nice Trans! I currently have a fairly new TCI T-400 and 8" converter which will need to be replaced

Which converter did you go with?

jdw_poncho · 04-16-2012, 10:29 PM

I havent bought the converter yet. I want to get a price for a bolt together from Chance but most likely one from PTC. Im not sure what the cost difference is or what I would gain spending the extra money for a bolt together.

Glad he is moving the bars up, Im kinda screwed on mine right now. I wasnt building it to drive on the street.

BruceWilkie · 04-16-2012, 11:26 PM

With the bolt together convertor you get to tune it to your combo better. Worth it in the long run IMO. As you work your way up the boost levels your stall and slip change.

jdw_poncho · 04-20-2012, 11:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BruceWilkie

With the bolt together convertor you get to tune it to your combo better. Worth it in the long run IMO. As you work your way up the boost levels your stall and slip change.

I talked to PTC yesterday about a converter. $1000 to buy $200-$300 to change my stall for the standard converter. $2000 to buy a bolt through, I didnt realize there was such a difference in the two converters. I'll start out with a standard conv until I can figure the car out.

bankbook · 04-20-2012, 11:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jdw_poncho

I talked to PTC yesterday about a converter. $1000 to buy $200-$300 to change my stall for the standard converter. $2000 to buy a bolt through, I didnt realize there was such a difference in the two converters. I'll start out with a standard conv until I can figure the car out.

There are a few bolt together's on the bullet. Usually 1-1200.00 in price. Then send it to Marty for the "tune" specific to your combo.

jdw_poncho · 10-17-2012, 09:09 PM

I keep forgetting how long ago I started this project. A few updates..

Car was put together in a hurry to make it to drag week. Just put a smaller N/A motor in it with plans to run a little nitrous to get by until I can get the boosted engine back together. Didnt do too well at Drag Week but I will be ready for it next year.

Chassis is done and the car drives just fine. It rode a lot rougher than I had imagined it would. I started out with 130lb springs in the rear and loosened up the QA 1 springs in the front. But the 130's just couldnt handle the weight of the u-haul trailer so I cranked them as tight as I could. QA-1 suggested a 150lb spring.

Ended up with a JW t400 trans and a PTC converter. It was pretty funny trying to get the car up on the converter with my little motor. I couldnt get it past 2600rpm's on the trans brake, the converter was spec'd out for a 2000HP engine so its a touch to tight for my little 400hp engine.

Ended up putting flowmasters on the car, hate them! The resonance along with the tin work just about drove me nuts driving down the rode.

Starting building another set of headers for the CV-1's. Had my 78's sold a could weeks ago but they back out. Was planning on stepping up to 88's or 91's. Now I think I'll just try the 78's and get it on the track next year.

ponjohn · 10-18-2012, 07:52 PM

Cool project.

Do you worry about over heating the trans with a stall and towing?

jdw_poncho · 10-18-2012, 09:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ponjohn

Cool project.

Do you worry about over heating the trans with a stall and towing?

Nope, I have a huge plate and frame oil cooler with a 12" fan on it. That was the only thing I could keep cool on the car during the heat. I was pleasanty surprised how cool the oil was after 2-3 hours of crusing around town without the trailer.

I pulled the trailer on the interstate for probably 10 miles in Tulsa during Monday morning traffic along with a few miles of stoplight traffic in town. It never got over 148 degrees. I know it sounds like a cliche, but I could hardly tell it was back there. I had it packed full of tools, spare wheels &slicks, 2 oil changes, 2 cases of trans oil, fullsize jack and stands, air tank, a weeks worth of clothes for two people and 15 gallons of gas.

twinturrbo406 · 12-28-2012, 07:41 PM

... how did your headers turn out for the new heads ?? ... any pic's ?? ...

jdw_poncho · 12-29-2012, 12:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by twinturrbo406

... how did your headers turn out for the new heads ?? ... any pic's ?? ...

I have them started but not finished. I thought I had a few build pics but cant find them right now. After I started on them I didnt like how they looked so Im starting over when I get my heads back and when the new T6 turbo's come in. I will say the rear driver side cylinder sure makes a 2" tube tough to clear the steering shaft. I think I've decided to replace the stock steering shaft so it will make it easier to build the headers.

The first try was to have the turbo right where the high beam light is. Now Im thinking about splitting the rad and put them side by side in the center of the car. For some reason it makes it easier to run the exhaust out the front fender.

I have my stock block and another set of e-heads on it right now. Not as exciting as using new parts....

twinturrbo406 · 12-29-2012, 03:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jdw_poncho

I have them started but not finished. I thought I had a few build pics but cant find them right now. After I started on them I didnt like how they looked so Im starting over when I get my heads back and when the new T6 turbo's come in. I will say the rear driver side cylinder sure makes a 2" tube tough to clear the steering shaft. I think I've decided to replace the stock steering shaft so it will make it easier to build the headers.

The first try was to have the turbo right where the high beam light is. Now Im thinking about splitting the rad and put them side by side in the center of the car. For some reason it makes it easier to run the exhaust out the front fender.

I have my stock block and another set of e-heads on it right now. Not as exciting as using new parts....

... i thought you already had the heads ?? ... but i cant wait to see what you come up with for your headers ...

... are you using steel, or stainless, or inconel ?? ...

... how much boost are you lookin' to start out with ?? ... the pics are great though, thank you ...

RAIV-Z · 10-18-2012, 08:20 PM

Congrats on getting the car on the road and to the track, looks great.

BruceWilkie · 12-31-2012, 08:49 PM

Have you seen the latest gem??? http://www.diyautotune.com/ms3-pro.html
(link took my pc awhile to load)

MS3 pro just released...I like it.

I like tuner studio interface... seems to be a bunch of function and option plus datalogging built in.

marks73ta · 01-01-2013, 01:41 AM

Wow that is impressived. But even they are getting expensive. Ya gotsta pay to play. Mark L

jdw_poncho · 01-02-2013, 07:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BruceWilkie

Have you seen the latest gem??? http://www.diyautotune.com/ms3-pro.html
(link took my pc awhile to load)

MS3 pro just released...I like it.

I like tuner studio interface... seems to be a bunch of function and option plus datalogging built in.

Im using tuner studio right now. Its pretty good and the data logging and self tuning works really well on the stock 5.3. Not sure if I'll use it for the turbo motor but it works great.

Quote:

Originally Posted by marks73ta

Wow that is impressived. But even they are getting expensive. Ya gotsta pay to play. Mark L

Keep in mind the MS-1 will do a lot of the features most drag racers would need. Once you build the MS1 and install the map dady sensor you can upgrade to the MS3 for another $200. So for under $700 you can have a complete set up.

jdw_poncho · 08-30-2013, 12:22 AM

Thought I woud post some updates since Ive finally started driving the car again. Ive been able to get it painted, build new headers, intake hat,hot, and cold side pipes, new FAST XFI system, and Im just now trying to finish wiring the car up.

I dont have any final pictures yet but the hood is mounted and all of the lights finally work. Still a lot left to do to get the tune right, hope to make a few passs this weekend.

I decided to get through dragweek before I start using methanol so Im using a A1000 and a really light spring in the waste gate. I can tell right away this thing wont need much boost to outrun the fuel pump. Plus using E85 its looking like the AIT are staying in good shape running around town. Im betting I wont find E85 over the entire dragweek trip but Im bringing M1 in case I need to make my own at the track.

I think I'll wrap the headers as well, Im concerned about ruining the paint on the hood.