[Onestone]

Originally Posted by Bill Hanlon

OldsObsolete has a listing for a set of Moraine 400 (considered an upgrade, used in the GMC truck versions of the 287/317 Pontiac V8) in STD size, GM part number 2336025.

Listing is here: https://oldsobsolete.com/products-pa...&gsc.q=2336025

....

OldsObsolete also has a listing for a single set (last one in stock) 522728.

Hi Bill!

Thank you for these hints - I already found the single set, but I need a complete set. I checked the Moraine ones you linked - I'm afraid it's not even incomplete, it looks also like it's an undersize (see last picture in the listing...).
But I wrote them an E-Mail and asked, no answer yet.

The fuel pump I switched to a "Hardy", see one of my older postings:
https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...2&postcount=33

It's a really comfortable upgrade, starts so much easier after standing for a longer time.

[Bill Hanlon]

I know some of the GMC truck Hydra-Matic transmissions had external coolers (optional on smaller trucks, standard on larger trucks), but I've never heard of one being available on a car. On the trucks with coolers the connections for the fluid to enter and exit the transmission go through the side of the bottom pan and the pan is much deeper than the non-cooler pan. Your '55 Pontiac "slant pan" transmission would not lend itself to additional plumbing.

The torus in these transmissions do not generate as much heat as the torque converters in newer transmissions. I'd ask Jack Gifford his opinion of the need for a cooler. His GMC truck is equipped with the lightest (177C or 177CA, I can't remember which) HydraMatic being pushed by a MUCH more robust Pontiac V8 than yours. Jack is known for over-engineering almost everything. https://www.facebook.com/groups/3864...4559186330594/ If he says put in the cooler, then I'd ask the transmission shop how they plan to attach the plumbing to the HydraMatic.

[Jack Gifford]

I'm glad you found a shop to do the Hydro.
Fatsco has been a godsend for me to obtain hard parts- shafts, gears, etc. - sometimes used but good. "Rebuild" parts- gaskets, seals, etc. are generally also available other places.
You don't need a cooler. I've used dual-range hydro's in all sorts of things. This included a HydroStick in a Tri-Power 4,200 pound car that ran two hard laps of Nuerburgring- that's a total of 34 miles- turning 6,500 rpm on straight stretches. The hydro was in fine shape... but I wasn't. The "ring" has about 170 turns and I had to manhandle that 4,200 pounds with manual steering, but with the pitman arm and idler arm changed to power steering pieces to quicken the ratio!

[Onestone]

Another question regarding cylinder head bolts:

- are they reusable?
- where the heck can I get new ones?

I searched a lot, but couldn't find a complete bolt set for this 287 engine.

All bolts have a 1/2-13 thread. The long ones with 4" and 4-5/8" length seem to be normal grade 8 bolts (reagarding the sign on the head of the old bolts), but the short ones with 2-1/2" length have a "M" on the head - whatever that means...

Any hints on the head bolts?

[Bill Hanlon]

Whether you replace the timing chain or not, I'd recommend upgrading the front crankshaft seal to a lip seal. Details here: https://www.pontiacsafari.com/L1Gara...ealUpgrade.pdf

I still have the alignment/installation tool that I had made when I did mine. I'll loan it out with a $100 deposit, gladly refunded when the tool is returned. You pay shipping both ways. You'll be around the 14th user.

Just remembered you are in Europe. It would probably be cheaper to have a machinist make the alignment tool than to send it across the Atlantic twice. One of the Pontiac guys had his machinist make one from some kind of plastic. I'll see if I can dig up the details.

[TXSTARFIRE]

A lot of head gaskets have the part number stamped into them. Should be able to tell if the gaskets are GM or Fel Pro or something else. Those look like some type of a rivet holding the center cover in place. May be able to drill them out or use a cold chisel on the sides at the bottom to lift them a bit or make a dent or depression so that you can get a vise grips or something on them. Best would be to remove them without destroying them so they can possibly be reused, otherwise dont know where to get a replacement. It seems maybe I have seen a similar fastener on the bottom of a small block Chevy intake manifold. They have a tin shield in the center to keep oil off of the crossover if I remember right.

[Bill Hanlon]

IF (big if) you take the water inlet tubes out of the heads be real careful. They are made of unobtainium and are real fragile. 55-6 are made of brass and 57-9 are stainless. Or maybe it is the other way around. 55-6 are the same both sides, 57-59 are side dependent.

[Bill Hanlon]

... and a quick question. Is this https://golf1wiki.de/downloads/pontiac/50251.jpeg an electric fuel pump that mounts in the same position as the stock mechanical pump? If not, what are the electrical connections for?

[TXSTARFIRE]

No reason to not reuse them.

[Onestone]

Originally Posted by TXSTARFIRE

No reason to not reuse them.

Well, 70 year old bolts, no clue if any of the preowners had overtightened them, since they have marks on their heads wich say they have been turned before.

If I have the chance I would prefer new ones, now that I will spend so much money on the engine job anyway.

Isn't there an Fel-Pro set with at least some matching 1/2-13 bolts?

What I need is:
- 1/2-13x2-1/2, 8 pcs
- 1/2-13x4-5/8, 6 pcs
- 1/2-13x4, 4 pcs
- 1/2-13x4 with 3/8-UNF thread on top, 2 pcs

I already tried to find them on Rockauto with the original partnumbers from the master catalogue, with no luck. Same on the Fel-Pro catalogue, looks like FelPro doesn't have single bolts at all, just sets

OR - if any of you can honestly say "just use normal grade 8 bolts, worked fine on my engine the last 20 years", I would get them. The only problem I see here, is that standard grade 8 bolts dont have the thickening below the head, since the holes in the cylinderheads are bigger...

[Bill Hanlon]

Have you checked with ARP?