[tom s]

How many hours do you think we're involved with getting all the parts together and installing everything including bending all lines etc etc.Tom

[lilabner]

Originally Posted by tom s

How many hours do you think we're involved with getting all the parts together and installing everything including bending all lines etc etc.Tom

It was really pretty easy work, except for getting this old spine under the dash a couple times. The lines bend pretty easy. I think they are a copper/steel alloy. I just made a couple close 90's then bent the rest by hand. Grinding the holes bigger for the bolt pattern was the biggest pain. I started with a drill but went to the shop for my die grinder. Then it was cake. I used the same clevis and with the new threaded rod coming out of the booster I now have a higher pedal. Of course I had to take my wife to lunch so she would help me bleed the system.
Total working time was about 4-5 hours..
I wasn't expecting the increase in braking to be as good as it turned out.
Six new nuts came with the booster also.
The hose shop and NAPA are close to my house. Used Amazon for the Master and direct to Speedway. Parts came in about 3-4 days.

Butch

[tom s]

So if a shop was charging say a average $100 a hour and had to figure out what would or would not work it would be a easy $1000?Tom

[lilabner]

Originally Posted by tom s

So if a shop was charging say a average $100 a hour and had to figure out what would or would not work it would be a easy $1000?Tom

I would say at least that..on an old classic. Profit is not a dirty word. Overhead is expensive. About 25 years ago a friend that also owned a shop asked me if I knew what my overhead was not counting any employees. I spent a few hours on a Saturday ciphering that. I was shocked to find out it was about $48.00 an hour just sitting in my chair with the doors locked. And that was 25 years ago.

[64gp4spd]

All, this thread is the Gift that keeps on giving.
Using NAPA Dual Master for 67-69 Pontiac Bonneville
for Manual Drum Brakes.

The original pushrod on the Single Master
was held into the rear of the master with a
snap ring. There is no provision for a snap ring
or clip to connect to dual master.
The push rod ball end fits into the bevel
of the new master but,

Question,
Is there a different rod that needs to be used
or will the brake pedal itself hold the rod in place?
Also, will it matter if I use the original 1/4 inch 64
Brake Lines , or do they need to be 3/16
like the 67-69?

Thanks

[1967Tempest]

you should be ok using the same rod and brake lines. Is the diameter of the new MC the same as the old one?? If so, the only think I would check is the prop valve to make sure you have the correct biasing.

The rod should be ok to stay on its own. IIRC, there might have been a cotter pin or a clip that holds the rod near the firewall.

[64gp4spd]

Yes the diameter is the same. No proportioning valve just a junction block
Where the brake lines connect to

Thanks

[webfoot]

CuNi line is a sinch to both flare & bend, very easy to work with.
There is a MC from certain model of cadillac that has the MC lines pointing to the RH side of the car, I think an El Dorado - i'd have to look it up again. Wish I had found that out before I notched my inner fender.

[Mario64]

IIRC 1962 cad deville has ports on the engine side. I have one unused if someone needs it.
Ciao,
Mario64

[PONTIAC LARRY]

I did it on our 66 Chief to original booster when I did the 70 Bonne disc swap , needed the deep hole plunger got a Dorman 68-70 Corvette ish unit new for $36 on Amazon free shipping

https://youtube.com/shorts/Hb1y3nZm5...K8Ubm043PBaMWZ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SvfDYPvQsC4