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#1
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Thanks Greg. I know I probably over paid for the car but that's what it took to get it. And, I wanted it! The figures I posted cover any and all work that has been done as well as money spent on parts. If it had to do with the restoration I recorded it here. I am sure that I have probably overlooked some small items but I am not more than a couple hundred dollars off if that much. Also, I figured my labor at $20.00 an hour. I am sure a shop would charge two or three times that rate.
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Remember no one is perfect. Everyone's butt has a crack in it! Last edited by fyrffytr1; 05-05-2014 at 10:33 PM. |
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#2
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Well, another weekend, another scheduled car show and a 50% chance of thunderstorms. I just couldn't chance driving 50 miles to the show and getting caught in bad weather so I chose to go to a local fund raiser for the "Give Burns the Boot" charity. There were only a handful of cars and no judging but I had a good day and, as luck would have it, the rain held off until I got home at about 3:00pm. At 3:30 pm there was 1/2" of rain in my gauge.
I didn't do any work on the car but I did buy the windshield washer hose clip set from a fellow PYer for $28.00 shipped. They didn't get here until Saturday and I have yet to install them. I took my wife to get her mother from the nursing home and take them to lunch today. That was a 300 mile round trip so I didn't have a chance to do anything to the car. I have an issue with my steering wheel in that the finish is coming off. I contacted PY, sent them a few pictures and they have agreed to take it back and re-do it. But, That will take about a month so they said that i could send it back when I got through with a few shows in the next two or three weeks. The way my luck is running with the weather I might as well take it off tomorrow and send it back. I will update totals when I have more than the $28.00 parts to add. And, in case Y'all want to see it here are a few shots of the steering wheel. It actually looks worse than the pictures show.
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Remember no one is perfect. Everyone's butt has a crack in it! |
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#3
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That steering wheel flaking should never have done that. I wonder what the problem was.
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#4
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I have no idea what caused it. Not only is it flaking but the wheel has a sticky feeling to it. The car is parked in my shop at all times unless I am driving it and that is only 1 day a week at most. I am thankful that PY is going to make good on it.
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Remember no one is perfect. Everyone's butt has a crack in it! |
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#5
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Hey Y'all! It's been a nice week except for the 3"s of rain we got and my top not working. But, the rain is over and the top is working again so I'm not complaining. I drove the car to a cruise-in in a small town about 40 miles south of here yesterday and had a good time except for two things. First, I didn't think about the love bugs being active and ran through a swarm of them on the way to the show and again on the way home. For those of you who are not familiar with them they are a black flying insect about the size of a fly. They mate in mid-air and number in the hundreds to thousands depending on the time of year. There is something in them that will eat into the finish on a car if they are left on. I used a detail spray to get them off as soon as I parked at the cruise-in and again as soon as I got home. Below are a couple pictures of them.
Second, on the way home I was cruising along about 65mph in the right lane when three large ducks decided they wanted to play and ran out in front of me! I was able to swerve and miss them but it scared the tar out of me. I had an issue with my top not working but after undoing the trunk connection, to check for current, and hooking it back up the top started working fine. There was a thread on here about installing relays to take the load off the switch and I plan on attempting that modification.
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Remember no one is perfect. Everyone's butt has a crack in it! |
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#6
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Are they "hooked up"?
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#7
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Yes they are! And, they fly that way! I honestly believe that if enough of them hit your car and remained there they would strip all the paint! I may keep that idea in mind if I ever do another car.
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Remember no one is perfect. Everyone's butt has a crack in it! |
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#8
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Maybe that explains the steering wheel...lol
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
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#9
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Phil-
Didn't PY's procedure entail removing all the material off the rim, and then putting your wheel in a mold and injecting in new material? Or did they just re-color the wheel? I need to have mine redone but the plastic/faux wood material is fine I.e no nicks/cuts, it just need the wood grain look put back on it. Right now my wheel looks like a slick tan plastic wheel. No evidence it ever had a wood grain pattern to it.
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1966 GTO Vert automatic. 1969 CR Judge Ram Air III 4sp Pattern Car. 1969 GTO standard 350HP TH-400. 2006 GTO Phantom Black 6spd. 1972 Formula 455HO Ram Air. 1976 LE Trans Am 50th Anniversary Edition with T top. 1976 Formula 350. 1977 Grand Prix Model J 350. 1978 Trans am 400 Pontiac. 1979 Trans am 403 Olds. 1968 Olds 442. 1971 TR6. |
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#10
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Quote:
They completely stripped my wheel and re molded it. Then it was re colored. There are places on my wheel now that are down to the tan plastic. I wonder if the hardener in the clear was defective or something. The wheel has a sticky feeling in places. I plan on sending it back right after the show at Summit Racing in McDonough, Ga. on June 7th.
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Remember no one is perfect. Everyone's butt has a crack in it! |
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#11
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My car is sitting on jack stands with no wheels as I write this. I took the wheels off, had the tires dis-mounted and started to strip them so I can re-paint them. I got one wheel stripped Thursday evening but it took me over 3 hours to do so. This was before I had the tires removed. I was telling a friend about it and he suggested having the wheels media blasted. He gave me the number of a guy so I called him about doing the job. He said he would do the remaining three front and back for about $30.00 and would take about an hour to do them. I asked if that was $30.00 a wheel and he said no $30.00 for all three.
I am taking them to him tomorrow afternoon and will order the tape kit from PY Tuesday. Here's the one wheel that I did. The reason I am doing this is because the paint on them is very thick and chipped off in several places. I want to take my car to a show on the 7th of June.
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Remember no one is perfect. Everyone's butt has a crack in it! |
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#12
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I hope he uses walnut or glass and not the slag media.
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![]() Gary Get in, ShuT Up, Hang On! Member of the Baltimore Built Brotherhood MY GTO built 4th Week of March 1966 "Crusin' Is Not A Crime" Keep yer stick on the ice. |
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#13
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Quote:
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#14
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Phil-
Would you mind taking a few pics and a few notes as you go along, and then post them? I have the kit and have been waiting to do the same job for a while. Your stripped wheel looks good. Did you paint them the last time? When I ordered the kit it came with dupli color spray bomb paint. I've read a few threads where others prefer to spray them with a gun. Which way are you going? Thanks.
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1966 GTO Vert automatic. 1969 CR Judge Ram Air III 4sp Pattern Car. 1969 GTO standard 350HP TH-400. 2006 GTO Phantom Black 6spd. 1972 Formula 455HO Ram Air. 1976 LE Trans Am 50th Anniversary Edition with T top. 1976 Formula 350. 1977 Grand Prix Model J 350. 1978 Trans am 400 Pontiac. 1979 Trans am 403 Olds. 1968 Olds 442. 1971 TR6. |
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#15
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I've never had problem masking the wheels with regular purple or blue masking tape. Paint the entire wheel argent first, then you just lay that tape down tight and you can see the outlines clearly. Take an x-acto razor and go to it. Remove the tape from the part you want to be charcoal, spray and you are done.
One tip... I strongly suggest that you clean both sides of the wheel and paint the inside gray. It will show up when the wheel is mounted and will stand out if it's dirty and grimy.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
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#16
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I had the wheels done today. He cleaned the front and back of all four wheels and they turned out really nice. I noticed one very small flaw in one wheel and will use a little Bondo red filler to fix it. I am going to use rattle cans to do this job. I am kinda sorta maybe looking for a set of 15" rally IIs and if I do get them they will be powder coated.
Charles I thought about ordering the stencil kit from our host but I may try taping one off first. I'll take pictures as I go. The wheels looked like they have been painted more than once but not by me. This will be my first attempt. I do have one question. Now that the wheels are bare metal should I use a primer or can I just use the wheel paint? If a primer is to be used what type?
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Remember no one is perfect. Everyone's butt has a crack in it! Last edited by fyrffytr1; 05-26-2014 at 07:30 PM. |
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#17
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When I stripped and repainted my Rally II's, I tried the stencil kit, but it wouldn't stick good enough. The blue painters tape as mentioned above and it worked great.
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#18
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Gator,
Thanks for the help. I'll try the paint method.
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Remember no one is perfect. Everyone's butt has a crack in it! |
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#19
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Gator,
What primer did you use after the filling the pits? I didn't follow your instructions completely on the back of the wheels. I cleaned them then used a light coat of etching primer. After it dried I applied a light coat of Rustoleum stainless steel. After it dried I lightly sanded the wheels, cleaned them and shot a second light coat followed by a third and final coat. I have not done anything to the fronts other than clean them and apply a light coat of etching primer. here are some before and after pics.
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Remember no one is perfect. Everyone's butt has a crack in it! |
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#20
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Quote:
I prep the back of the wheels the same way as the front…I'm especially picky with the one I choose to use as the spare. The Rust-oleum Light Machine Gray color I use on the backs is close enough to the Dove Gray that was used originally. The end result is good enough for me...I'm not much of a car show guy, but my wheels compare favorably to most that I see at local shows and cruise ins…
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"If the best Mustang is the Camaro, the best Camaro is actually the Firebird" David Zenlea |
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