[bhill86]

25stevem, I can probably handle that I think.

Verdoro, sorry to hear that. I’m no doubt frustrated. I don’t disagree that full disassembly clean and rebuild is the best option. Time is a little against me and more so funds at the moment.

I’ll have to think about this a bit.

[bhill86]

I haven’t decided 100% yet but my thoughts are, try to clean the oil galleys out the best I can, if the rest of the crank journals look like the rod and main I posted maybe? just use it (if not, pull it and have it polished?) get new bearings, plastigauge them and if my clearances are ok install a new pump with the pickup corrected and give it a shot?

I kind of wonder if, with two very recent oil changes (new oil in oct, 200-300miles, new oil this spring, another 200-300 miles, then I refilled the engine with new oil again for maybe 50 miles before I pulled it), could that have cleaned things out enough on its own?

[bhill86]

I know I’m talking to myself here a lot but looking at the oil galley plugs, what’s the best way to removed the pressed plugs?

[NeighborsComplaint]

OP, sorry to hear about your mishap. Parts can be replaced, fingers and hands cannot.

Back to your original issue. I have built my engine twice and have had low idle oil pressure on both builds. The only thing out of spec on mine was slightly loose side clearance on the SD Rods I reused. Rods and mains were set to the loose side of clearance tolerances on both builds. For the second build, I swapped in a blueprinted Butler SD pump. Nothing changed. Oil pressure builds quickly off-idle and the car has been reliable over the 40 years I've owned it and I've not been gentle with the car other than taking care not to stress the engine when cold. I get around 65 psi at cruise and 10-15 at a 750 rpm idle depending on the oil I'm using.

[jww]

Don’t forget there is a hidden oil gallery plug on the right rear bank that needs to come out for proper engine cleaning. Hopefully someone will post a pic of it. I don’t have one.

[jww]

I may have missed it, but what kind of lifters are in this motor? I had some early Comp Cams hydraulic rollers that were garbage and my oil pressure was pretty erratic, more so at cruise than idle. Lunati HR’s fixed the problem
FWIW…….. no expert here!

[bhill86]

Originally Posted by NeighborsComplaint

OP, sorry to hear about your mishap. Parts can be replaced, fingers and hands cannot.

Back to your original issue. I have built my engine twice and have had low idle oil pressure on both builds. The only thing out of spec on mine was slightly loose side clearance on the SD Rods I reused. Rods and mains were set to the loose side of clearance tolerances on both builds. For the second build, I swapped in a blueprinted Butler SD pump. Nothing changed. Oil pressure builds quickly off-idle and the car has been reliable over the 40 years I've owned it and I've not been gentle with the car other than taking care not to stress the engine when cold. I get around 65 psi at cruise and 10-15 at a 750 rpm idle depending on the oil I'm using.

I don’t think I was quite that high at cruise from what I recall. In fact I’m thinking it was closer to 40ish. Maybe higher. Idle was 10psi hot max though. A bit lower after a highway drive.


To jww, lifter are comp HFT. They’re probably 8-10 years old. They were installed back then with a new comp cam at a shop that rebuilt the engine and caused it to burn a lot of oil. Smoke out the tailpipe “a lot”. I took the engine to the most recent builder and we reused the cam and lifters.

[bhill86]

Bearings in the engine are

Rods: Clevite CB-758P 30
Mains: Federal Mogel FMP 4040m 30

WOW. Pricy. Is that typical or is that a post COVID thing? Any issues with going with the same or are there other recommendations?

[bhill86]

Dumb question. Can I reuse my rear main seal assuming it’s not a rope type? It doesn’t leak and I would think the critical points would become at the parting lines. Can I re-RTV those points and leave the rest alone?

[Gary H]

Originally Posted by bhill86

Dumb question. Can I reuse my rear main seal assuming it’s not a rope type? It doesn’t leak and I would think the critical points would become at the parting lines. Can I re-RTV those points and leave the rest alone?

Yes, you can reuse it no
problem.

[bhill86]

Thanks. Am I correct that I just need to clean up the sealant from the parting line areas and reapply some when finished?

[shermanator2]

Originally Posted by bhill86

. Am I correct in my assumption that seeing copper on the thrust surface is a bad thing? .

Here is a photo of a brand new Clevite. Notice that they come with exposed copper.

[25stevem]

Yes with the rear seal parting line and the groove it sits in, but it all must 100% free from oil

[bhill86]

Originally Posted by shermanator2

Here is a photo of a brand new Clevite. Notice that they come with exposed copper.

Thank you. I did find other new bearings that looked the same as well. One less thing for me to worry about I guess.

[bhill86]

Originally Posted by 25stevem

Yes with the rear seal parting line and the groove it sits in, but it all must 100% free from oil

Thank you.

[bhill86]

So, I’m trying to compile a list of parts I’ll need and have come to the pan gasket. I have the 4 piece now and it did leak a bit but I found a couple loose bolts previously. Is the cost of the one piece worth it or should I just stick with the 4 piece?

[Verdoro 68]

My two cents: get the one piece while the engine is out.

[bhill86]

I read some other threads on here after posting the question and didn’t see any negatives. Just, $65 for a gasket vs like $15….wanted to make sure it’s worth it.

It does look easier to install though which is another plus.

[Verdoro 68]

If you’re on a really tight budget, I’d be inclined to put the $ towards the internals. If you can spring for it the one piece is a nice upgrade to the multi-piece cork gaskets we used for years.

Here’s an older thread I saved on installing the one piece.

https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...70&postcount=3

[25stevem]

I see no need for such a thing !
Take your time!
I have always used a tube of form a gasket for this, the timing cover and the valley pan.

Apply a 1/8” tall bead on the block side making sure to go around the crankcase side of the bolts then apply 1/16” tall bead on the pan.
Let these both set up until they are very well skinned over and then mate and bolt the two up .

Allow any excess that has come out to fully set up overnight and then slice it off with a razor.

I have never had any leaks and I get to keep more then 50 bucks in my wallet since I only paid 8 bucks for the tube of gasket maker.