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68WarDog · 06-09-2022, 06:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZeGermanHam

I

The crank pulley looks small thats offered in the aftermarket (6"). Why would anyone want to underdrive the waterpump and alternator?

ZeGermanHam · 06-09-2022, 06:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 68WarDog

The crank pulley looks small thats offered in the aftermarket (6"). Why would anyone want to underdrive the waterpump and alternator?

The billet crank pulley in my kit is 7-5/16", which is the same diameter as the OEM single-groove A/C crank pulley that would've been stacked behind an 8" 2-groove WP/Alt crank pulley. Wish they had just sized the thing up to 8" rather than size down to 7-5/16". Or better yet, machine the thing so it functions identically to the OEM setup and has two different diameters.

64speed · 06-10-2022, 06:54 AM

I have a cold case in the car right now. What is the absolute best radiator I can get?

JSchmitz · 06-10-2022, 07:27 AM

You need a severe duty fan and clutch. Going to be hard to keep that thing col with A/C. '64's just don't have much room for a big radiator.

grivera · 06-10-2022, 07:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 64speed

I have the large crank pulley. I just called Cold Case and they gave me a list of like 6 things to check. They told me it wasnt worth upgrading the radiator because as slow as it was heating up that the cooling system was doing its job but that I had another problem. First task is to put a 180 back in it per their recommendation with a 1/8 hole drilled in the rim. Fill the block up with coolant while the thermostat is out and try to burp it one more time. They also said that with 250 miles on it I want truly know anything until 1500/2000 miles and just to drive it. The temperature drops like a rock if I turn off the air and drops even faster if I turn the heat on so thats where we are at right now.

Assuming you have the full strength coolant mix it with distilled water before putting in radiator to get even mixture.

Also, did you ever put a timing light to it for idle/vacuum advance timing measurement?

64speed · 06-10-2022, 08:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by grivera

Assuming you have the full strength coolant mix it with distilled water before putting in radiator to get even mixture.

Also, did you ever put a timing light to it for idle/vacuum advance timing measurement?

My timing light sucks and I can’t see it. Waiting on my nephew to come.

Singleton · 06-10-2022, 10:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 68WarDog

Why would anyone want to underdrive the waterpump and alternator?

Typically, Pontiac had their non-A/C engines underdriven by 8 to 15%.(water pump driven at 85-92% of crank speed).

The CVF pullies I have on my non-A/C GTO are both 6.2", (crank and WP), for a 1:1 ratio, (or 100%). The High-flow that CVF offers is the same 6.2 wp pulley with a 8" crank, for a 129% overdrive. I'm going to try a 8" wp pulley to underdrive it to 77.5% of crank speed. My engine idles at 1000, (manual trans), so the water pump will still be turning at 775 rpm. I run a flex fan with no cooling issues, but I don't like the fact that the fan is turning 6000 rpm at my shift points. By underdriving it 77.5%, at my 6000 rpm shift point, the fan will now be turning only 4650 rpm. Less stress on the fan blades and less drag.

68WarDog · 06-10-2022, 11:55 AM

[QUOTE=Singleton;6348546]Typically, Pontiac had their non-A/C engines underdriven by 8 to 15%.(water pump driven at 85-92% of crank speed).

Agreed, however Pontiac engineers weren't dealing with todays higher hp applications and performance standards. Also today's fuels don't provide the cooling and lubrication affect of the 60s and 70s.

64speed · 06-10-2022, 12:50 PM

its an airflow issue. At 220 my dash light comes on. As soon as I start moving I drop to 185 within 2 miles. I am gonna have to get an electric fan.

64speed · 06-10-2022, 02:45 PM

I know yall are gonna think I am crazy but this mechanical fan really does not move any air. I expected a roar too and I dont have one. And before anyone asks yeah its on right LOL

JSchmitz · 06-10-2022, 02:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 64speed

I know yall are gonna think I am crazy but this mechanical fan really does not move any air. I expected a roar too and I dont have one. And before anyone asks yeah its on right LOL

What clutch do you have. I have a heavy duty and a severe duty for my car. Significant difference between the two. NOTHING will pull more air than a severe duty clutch fan in my opinion.

64speed · 06-10-2022, 03:04 PM

I have tried all of the above. Mechanical now. I am sending it back and putting electric

64speed · 06-10-2022, 03:05 PM

Look at this POS I started with

lust4speed · 06-10-2022, 03:14 PM

Some quick math. Pontiac AC pulleys were about 8" on the crank and 7" on the water pump in round numbers, and that produces a 114% overdrive ratio. One of the aluminum pulley kits that Butler sells has the bottom pulley about 7-1/2" and the top pulley about 6-1/2" for an overdrive ratio of 115% -- which is close enough to call the new kit's ratio even with the old stock AC setup. Have this pulley kit on the Catalina wagon with the 496 and it runs very cool. Should mention that everything has been done besides the pulleys including a beta test Cold Case Radiator for the '65 B-bodies, plate setup, SD fan clutch with 19.5" fan, shroud, etc...

Anyway, the overdriven aluminum pulley kit works good.

grivera · 06-10-2022, 03:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 64speed

I have tried all of the above. Mechanical now. I am sending it back and putting electric

Make sure you choose an electric that moves enough cfm - like a Mark VII, otherwise you'll likely be worse off than now. Also it will have to be a type with a shroud not the sheet metal that's attached to radiator - those block airflow. Lots of info on this in cooling section.

TB1 · 06-10-2022, 04:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by grivera

Make sure you choose an electric that moves enough cfm - like a Mark VII, otherwise you'll likely be worse off than now. Also it will have to be a type with a shroud not the sheet metal that's attached to radiator - those block airflow. Lots of info on this in cooling section.

Well said! I think you might be on a slippery slope with changing stuff around and possibly wasting a bunch of $$$$ that is not required. Hands down the mechanical fan will move more air than the electric. I had issues with temps on my 65 (non AC Car) a couple years ago that had the giant factory WP pulley and the crank pulley wasn't ideal either with a 160 degree thermostat it would get up to 210-220 in traffic at a stop (Fresh Engine). cool right down to 180 as I drove away and stayed there never would drop down to 160. I put a better set of pulleys on it from CFV that drove the WP faster swapped in a 180° thermostat and it has been rock steady since I went with a HD flex fan with the bigger blades(not the thin edge POS type) at the same time. Removing the HD clutch fan as it seemed to always be howling away.

Cold case told you to get some miles on it before changing a bunch of parts if I'm not mistaken from a previous post? drive the car and see what happens as the engine breaks in, obviously if its getting up around 230 and puking water out make some changes then.