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#1
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Adding Ram Air pans
I'm starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel for my Ram Air II build. The general theme is of the build is "parts counter late '68." Kind of like you went to your GM dealer and ordered the good stuff back in the day.
I'm preparing to repaint the underside of the hood and am thinking about adding the '68 ram air setup to complement the heads and intake. What's holding me back is cutting the bracing on the hood for the upper pan. It's not a huge amount of surgery, but it is difficult to reverse. My car also has A/C, so it's an obviously tell that it's not a Ram Air car. I did cut the hood to add a hood tach so maybe I'm hand-wringing over nothing. Would you all break out the cut off wheel or leave it be?
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Ken '68 GTO - Ram Air II 464 - 236/242 roller - 9.5” TSP converter - 3.55 posi (build thread | walk around) '95 Comp T/A #6 M6 - bone stock (pics) |
The Following User Says Thank You to Verdoro 68 For This Useful Post: | ||
#2
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Build it as you see fit, nobody else's opinion has value unless you plan on selling. I drive a clone and could care less what the nay sayers think or say. They sure get their panties in a knot when they find an LS under the hood. I sleep just fine.
Tim john--- |
#3
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Cutting painted metal is always stressful.
I'm planning on adding the cold air air cleaner to my car once I get it running, but I don't plan on adding the hood plate and actuators. I'll just seal the air cleaner to the hood and run open scoops. I like your idea of "parts counter" RAII, and if that's the look you're going for and you don't mind re-painting under the hood, I say go for it.
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1968 GTO - 400/400 - Currently being rebuilt - 455/T56 1996 WS6 - LTI M6 - Sold 5/11 1979 Trans Am - 403/Auto - Sold 12/18 |
The Following User Says Thank You to rasilverbird For This Useful Post: | ||
#4
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Wouldn't think twice about it. If you want a factory fresh air setup on the car, go for it. Functional factory hoods are a big part of the cool factor on muscle cars.
Do it while the parts are available. |
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#5
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+2! The alternative being your 464 RAII motor will be breathing out of a 68 single snorkel air cleaner 😯
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#6
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Yeap to all above. my metal scoop are open. I'm gonna skip the flapped door/cable stuff i've owned in the past.
Foam on Lower pan to carb. Thinking to get the upper plate and hood seal to be done with it. Water Drain tube? |
#7
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What’s the worst someone is gonna think you took your hood off a real RAII car. If it bothers you that much get a reproduction hood they aren’t that expensive . The brace can always be welded back in but I don’’t really see any reason you’d want to.
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Happiness is just a turbocharger away! 960 HP @ 11 psi, 9.70 at 146. Iron heads, iron stock 2 bolt block , stock crank, 9 years haven't even changed a spark plug! selling turbos and turbo related parts since 2005! |
#8
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Agreed, like a round hoodtach hole made to add the Hoodtach. The afterthought is hope it was niceLy done...yes it looks clean.
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#9
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I installed my ram air pan on my 68 hood and never cut a brace. Been on there for 15 years now.
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The Following User Says Thank You to gtoguys For This Useful Post: | ||
#10
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Alright, twist my arm. The whole set up is a little over $600 so it’s not cheap, but nothing in this build has been.
__________________
Ken '68 GTO - Ram Air II 464 - 236/242 roller - 9.5” TSP converter - 3.55 posi (build thread | walk around) '95 Comp T/A #6 M6 - bone stock (pics) |
#11
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I used a cutoff wheel to cut my hood for ram air 7 or 8 years ago. Wasn't really that hard to do even on the car.
Just remember the old adage, measure twice, cut once. I laid a big drop cloth across the engine compartment to keep the metal shavings away. Gosh, no surprise but prices have really jumped. I think I paid about half of that.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
The Following User Says Thank You to Greg Reid For This Useful Post: | ||
#12
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I believe the 69 assembly manual has drawings that show both the cut lines for 69-70 and for 68.
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My Break Away Squad 1969 Fbird (Base, 350 & Sprint Cvt’s - 400HO & TA Hardtops) 1969 LeMans (2dr & 4dr Hardtop and a Cvt) 1969 LeMans Safari 2 seat Wagon 1969 GTO (2 Cvt, 2 Hardtops & Judge Hardtop) 1969 Catalina (3 Cvt’s & a 2dr hardtop) 1969 Ventura 2 Seat Wagon 1969 Executive 4dr Sedan 1969 Bonnie Cvt 1969 Bonnie 3 Seat Wagon (2 of them) 1969 Bonnie Brougham (4dr Hardtop & Cvt) 1969 Grand Prix SJ (2 of them) 1969 2+2 2dr Hardtop (Canadian model) |
#13
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Quote:
The 69 system is much more complex. I didn't look but I'd hate to think what that system would set you back. $$$$ |
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#14
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You can install it, and it'll look okay, without cutting any braces but you won't get the factory type seal between the upper pan and the hood I don't think.
And like I said, cutting it is not that hard if you have an angle grinder with a trigger lock so you can manipulate it with both hands without having to hold the trigger down. The upper pan has a stamped area at the rear designed to hook onto the rear brace on the underside of the hood. That will support it while you center it side to side. Once it's centered just drill a hole for the very front center screw. Before doing that I put masking tape on the hood bracing in the area where I knew I was going to have to cut. Once I hung the pan up from the rear I was able to make all of my cut marks on the masking tape. Hanging it from the rear allows you to push the pan up against the bottom of the hood so you can make a mark, drop it down, make another mark so forth and so on everywhere you see interference.. Like I said before, measure twice cut once. I posted a thread on it, and it's somewhere in our archives, with photos
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
#15
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Got the pans from Ames. The upper and lower pans, vent tube, foam and air cleaner lid was an investment but this is going to look cool on top of that intake
Looks like I need to order a bigger air filter. For some reason the K&N I had with the stock snorkel is 13-1/2" diameter rather than a 14".
__________________
Ken '68 GTO - Ram Air II 464 - 236/242 roller - 9.5” TSP converter - 3.55 posi (build thread | walk around) '95 Comp T/A #6 M6 - bone stock (pics) |
#16
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Quote:
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#17
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That’s gonna look great . Nothing wrong w an an irate looking clone 90 % maybe more of the time no one thinks my RAIV bird is really anyway .
__________________
Happiness is just a turbocharger away! 960 HP @ 11 psi, 9.70 at 146. Iron heads, iron stock 2 bolt block , stock crank, 9 years haven't even changed a spark plug! selling turbos and turbo related parts since 2005! |
#18
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I’d imagine that’s the curse of having a rare car. I even get the “Is it real?” question with my plain GTO. My car has a/c so I’m not trying to fool anyone with the ram air assembly.
__________________
Ken '68 GTO - Ram Air II 464 - 236/242 roller - 9.5” TSP converter - 3.55 posi (build thread | walk around) '95 Comp T/A #6 M6 - bone stock (pics) |
#19
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Royal Bobcat mail order upgrade package .
original owner had to have it and its been there ever since. You basically committed yourself to the responsibility of the Induction Hardware when you bought those heads and built that engine ! Enjoy the Factors ! |
#20
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Well, I do have a Royal Bobcat sticker I got from Wangers on the windshield. That may be what started all this.
I actually had a hokey fiberglass ram air set up on it 20+ years ago. I hastily installed it - and it looked like it. I'm not even sure I had the upper pan installed the right side up! You can see it bulging off the hood in the pic. I didn't know I had to cut the hood back then, so maybe that was part of the problem. The super fat lower foam looks choice too. This setup is a million times better. The blue Crane plug wires, white Blackjack headers, yellow Accel coil are vintage Super Shops pick ups. Good times on a budget.
__________________
Ken '68 GTO - Ram Air II 464 - 236/242 roller - 9.5” TSP converter - 3.55 posi (build thread | walk around) '95 Comp T/A #6 M6 - bone stock (pics) |
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