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HWYSTR455 · 12-08-2011, 12:43 PM

You can overlap if you want, but you're going to have to spend some time with the roller and heat gun to get the ridge it creates to go flat, or you will feel it through the carpet. And like I said, it's an acoustical mat, if there's a 1/4" gap, it's going to play very little on effect.

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67ramairowner · 12-08-2011, 01:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

I did a bunch of homework on this topic before I took the plunge, and, after all was said and done, chose the Dynamat products. Yeah, I know they cost more, but I also know it has had consistent results, and all that have used it have said it worked as advertised. Do you really want to have to do it again? So, it costs a little more.

There is as all know some R value to Dynamat, but it's an acoustical mat, not a thermal mat. And as stated, there's Dynaliner, the heat barrier product. Why try to use or tout the acoustical product as a thremal barrier? You want a thermal barrier, use the thermal product, no-brainer to me. If you are only concerned with thermal, then use only the Dynaliner. And that's super easy to apply, light, easy to cut, etc.

I did the cutlass project with Dyna products. I didn't line up the labels, I didn't make sure every square inch was covered, and sure it's not as pretty as some other installs. But it works. It doesn't have to be perfect, the impact is so minimal, not even funny trying to compare.

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This is where I think I should go on this.

The Dynamatt and Dynaliner are indeed the high bucks solution but everything else seems to be a noise control solution only! I had been hoping for a cheaper solution that had heat and sound combined but what I read here doesn't seem to confirm any solution other than the D-matt & D-liner products.

It appears that you have used the two products on your floor. And I see the Dynamatt on the doors.

Question #1 Did you use the D-Liner on the doors with the D-matt?

Question #2 What if anything was used on the roof? There certainly are lots of heat sources under the car however the doors and roof certainly are adding to the heat load also.

Question #3 Whatever you used on the doors D-Matt or D-matt AND D-liner what was your experience getting the door panels into place? I wonder if the stuff is thick enough (especially if BOTH products are used) to cause issues with fitting the panels.

Thanks

67ramairowner · 12-08-2011, 01:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 70gtorag

The Ultimate product from B-Quiet is just about identical to Dynamat. It sticks, guaranteed! This product will flow easily when warm, and absolutely no issues with sticking, in fact be careful with your placement since it will not peel back for a retry, once down it is down for good.

THis sounds good with one exception. What happens if I want to get into the door area to work on a window mechanism? It sounds like this stuff uses an adhesive similar to the stuff used on furnace ducting. That silver tape used on duct joints is a "get it right the first time or else" product. GREAT adhesion but I am scratching my head about using this stuff on the doors.

2 Questions if you please:

#1 Did you use it on the doors?

#2 if you did use it on the doors what happened when you installed the door panels. How did the thickness of this material effect the fit of the panels?

HWYSTR455 · 12-08-2011, 01:58 PM

There are other thermal barrier products out there, if you search, you can find them. Most are competing with Dynamat, so will be cheaper. But most have little feedback, or at least at the time I did my homework, so I gave up. There are people out there that have done pretty good comparisons of products, one I think was on the pro-touring site, search it. There's different types of thermal barriers too, ones for deflecting heat, etc, and choosing the right one for what you're trying to do makes a difference.

Doors - No, because I reasoned, 1) with the acoustical mat, and the panel, a decent amount of thermal insulation would occur, and 2) the Dynaliner would have added enough thickness (the way I applied) that the door panel may not fit correctly. (Keep in mind, the majority of the radiant heat comes from the firewall and floors, especially from the muffler area. You can wrap the mufflers if you want more, and the exhaust, but it will make your exhaust rot faster).

Roof - Black car. I wanted to do something to the roof, but, it had the OE stuff on the roof, those panels of thick, asbestos-looking crap, and, honestly, I didn't want to mess with it! They were still intact, and I know it would have made a mess trying to gut it. Plust those braces are in the way. If that stuff is moist, or looks stained and rotted, you have no choice, but on this car, there was no evidence of moisture, so I left it.

Door Panels - Think I covered that. I really feel the mat and the door panel is enough to block most of the heat. You're not going to get much radiant heat from the center of the door, there's a pretty big air gap there. Air conditioning will mask anything that isn't blocked by the panel.

I bought 2 boxes of the Dynamat, bulk pack, and think I got each for like $115. That was from a place that offered free shipping, which will KILL you with that stuff, so keep that in mind when shopping it. Find a place that is as close as possible to you to order from, and even if it's like $20 or something more than another place, you may save it because of shipping.

Just checked, StreetSideAuto.com still has free shipping on it, and the 9-pak is $134. They have the liner too, which comes in different thicknesses:

http://www.streetsideauto.com/search...ywords=dynamat

Might be able to find it cheaper, shop it some...

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67ramairowner · 12-08-2011, 02:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

There are other thermal barrier products out there, if you search, you can find them. Most are competing with Dynamat, so will be cheaper. But most have little feedback, or at least at the time I did my homework, so I gave up. There are people out there that have done pretty good comparisons of products, one I think was on the pro-touring site, search it. There's different types of thermal barriers too, ones for deflecting heat, etc, and choosing the right one for what you're trying to do makes a difference.

Doors - No, because I reasoned, 1) with the acoustical mat, and the panel, a decent amount of thermal insulation would occur, and 2) the Dynaliner would have added enough thickness (the way I applied) that the door panel may not fit correctly. (Keep in mind, the majority of the radiant heat comes from the firewall and floors, especially from the muffler area. You can wrap the mufflers if you want more, and the exhaust, but it will make your exhaust rot faster).

Roof - Black car. I wanted to do something to the roof, but, it had the OE stuff on the roof, those panels of thick, asbestos-looking crap, and, honestly, I didn't want to mess with it! They were still intact, and I know it would have made a mess trying to gut it. Plust those braces are in the way. If that stuff is moist, or looks stained and rotted, you have no choice, but on this car, there was no evidence of moisture, so I left it.

Door Panels - Think I covered that. I really feel the mat and the door panel is enough to block most of the heat. You're not going to get much radiant heat from the center of the door, there's a pretty big air gap there. Air conditioning will mask anything that isn't blocked by the panel.

I bought 2 boxes of the Dynamat, bulk pack, and think I got each for like $115. That was from a place that offered free shipping, which will KILL you with that stuff, so keep that in mind when shopping it. Find a place that is as close as possible to you to order from, and even if it's like $20 or something more than another place, you may save it because of shipping.

Just checked, StreetSideAuto.com still has free shipping on it, and the 9-pak is $134. They have the liner too, which comes in different thicknesses:

http://www.streetsideauto.com/search...ywords=dynamat

Might be able to find it cheaper, shop it some...

.

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Ok ..read ya loud and clear!!!! I have the same issue..black car, black inside, black top and black paint. Thermal is a big deal on both cars that I am or will be working on. Both have A/C and in both cases we are converting or using to R134. Doing the conversion the right way POA recalibration and correct R134 condenser so the A/C will work as well as it can. Research indicates that this solution (thru Classic Air in Tampa) works well but the more I can keep the heat out the cooler the ride is gonna be because the A/C will be asked to do less work!

Another idea..some cars, and I don't know why this is, have a cardboard / fiberboard divider between the rear seat and the trunk. Not sure why some do and some don't might be they all did day one ..i don't know. I plan to insulate that also.

Last but not least..and this might not apply to your car(s) do you have tinted glass? I am giving consideration to adding a UV resistant tint to the windows. I think the tint products have come a long way from the factory stuff from back in the day these cars were new. Once car is a conversion to factory air..some firewall mods required) and the other is a Vintage Air install. Neither has tinted glass and I think that is impt. GM required tinted glass when A/C was ordered if my mind serves me correctly. Any comments?

HWYSTR455 · 12-08-2011, 04:10 PM

That's what I did on the Cutlass too, the Classic Auto Air conversion, they pressure tested and flushed the evap core, recal on POA, did the upgraded condenser, hose kit, and Sand compressor. They even refurb'ed the evap box, turned out real nice. It was a AC car to begin with though, so has the factory tinted glass.

Run the rear seat/trunk divider. I believe the all came with them, just got robbed over the years. Owners would jerk them out from the trunk side when they started to fall apart from moisture, etc. I threw a sheet of Dynamat on it, and then stuck the factory insulation on top. Leave the obvious areas of openings though, it allows for proper circulation in the cabin. It won't adversely effect cooling or heating either. Run the insulation under the rear deck, like, where the speakers are. That helps a lot too. You can dynamat that first.

On the glass, well, there may be some good tinting available now, but everyone I've ever seen, especially in areas that are real hot, like texas, that after-the-fact stuff blisters, peels, lifts, you name it. The only real way to do it is replace the glass. It's not as expensive as you think, can buy good used. Cars need new windshields like every 5-7 years anyway. Side glass lasts pretty long, rear glass gets beat up at about half the rate or less than the windshield. I think it offers about 8 - 12% reduction in heat, to give you an idea. Try without first.

Final thing you may want to consider is an electric fan setup with a controller. A two-speed fan and controller will run the fan on low while the AC is on. That adds to dead-stop and creeping traffic cooling performance.

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67ramairowner · 12-08-2011, 04:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

That's what I did on the Cutlass too, the Classic Auto Air conversion, they pressure tested and flushed the evap core, recal on POA, did the upgraded condenser, hose kit, and Sand compressor. They even refurb'ed the evap box, turned out real nice. It was a AC car to begin with though, so has the factory tinted glass.

Run the rear seat/trunk divider. I believe the all came with them, just got robbed over the years. Owners would jerk them out from the trunk side when they started to fall apart from moisture, etc. I threw a sheet of Dynamat on it, and then stuck the factory insulation on top. Leave the obvious areas of openings though, it allows for proper circulation in the cabin. It won't adversely effect cooling or heating either. Run the insulation under the rear deck, like, where the speakers are. That helps a lot too. You can dynamat that first.

On the glass, well, there may be some good tinting available now, but everyone I've ever seen, especially in areas that are real hot, like texas, that after-the-fact stuff blisters, peels, lifts, you name it. The only real way to do it is replace the glass. It's not as expensive as you think, can buy good used. Cars need new windshields like every 5-7 years anyway. Side glass lasts pretty long, rear glass gets beat up at about half the rate or less than the windshield. I think it offers about 8 - 12% reduction in heat, to give you an idea. Try without first.

Final thing you may want to consider is an electric fan setup with a controller. A two-speed fan and controller will run the fan on low while the AC is on. That adds to dead-stop and creeping traffic cooling performance.

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I have already added a Lincoln MK VIII fan (two speed) with Dakota Digital controller and an uprated 130 AMP alt.

Likely I will wait on the glass but I have a friend with a Dodge Ram truck...late model might be 10 years old now. I don't know why it came without tint and with A/C but it did. It was a BARE BONES stripper ...one of those "lure ya into the Dealer for an UPSELL sort of vehicles! He had tint added to the truck and the tint is staying very very well. He lives in on a HUGE lake outside Birmingham Alabama now and formerly lived in Atlanta. Doesn't get much worse than Atlanta and Alabama in August!!!! The added tint really made a difference!

Would like to talk about the Classic conversion? Have not kicked the project off yet..still collecting my thoughts but I am very interested in things like Classic Air Service (who to talk to / avoid if there are folks to avoid) outlet temps...whatever.

Don't want to derail this thread. Could we make contact via E-mail? You can get me at HPEXPATRIOT@YAHOO.COM Just put something about A/C in the topic! Also I am thinking of using a new A/C hose that clips together at the ends. No hydraulic press needed. My buddy with the Truck has a 34 Ford we did with the enw hose and it REALLY is nice. All ends are added via a special pliers and some special clips / fittings!!! I did the entire car in one day at his house w/o any trips to a A/C shop for press work!

HWYSTR455 · 12-09-2011, 08:53 AM

It's a great crew at Classic, Don helped me, though any will give you great service, all knowlegable.

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goatwgn · 12-11-2011, 11:45 PM

Beautiful detail underhood on that Oldsmobile, HWYSTR455!

HWYSTR455 · 12-12-2011, 08:45 AM

Thank you! Worked hard at it! It should be ready to pick up from the paint shop wednesday, will have it trimmed out by x-mas. Pretty excited about it, for a couple reasons, one, it will be done! (Not often a project comes to a completion like that!), and two, I get to finally get to the 'bird project!

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niceta · 12-12-2011, 11:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 70gtorag

The Ultimate product from B-Quiet is just about identical to Dynamat. It sticks, guaranteed! Prep the floor before applying it by wiping it down with a solvent soaked rag, ensure you have clean metal before applying. Overlap all edges and get complete coverage, use a heat gun and soft cloth to work it in the nooks and crannies where the roller will not go. This product will flow easily when warm, and absolutely no issues with sticking, in fact be careful with your placement since it will not peel back for a retry, once down it is down for good. Use the largest peices possible and pull off the paper backing only as far as you want to work the length. You will not need 3M glue for this application at all!

Thanks for the tips.