[Big Injun]

I have used the product RAAMAT from http://www.raamaudio.com/. It is a lot less expensive than the "name brand" stuff and used by all of the top stereo installer.

[blue goats]

67,
Frost King is a HVAC product sold at Lowes where I live. It is a self adhesive wrap with an aluminum style outside and mastic black 1/4" thick part that looks like dynaliner sold at audio stores. It is much lighter than dynaliner and sticks to itself and clean steel pretty well. BUT the adhesive backed frost king would NOT stick well to my roof so I used 3M headliner spray adhesive on both the frost king and the roof then installed. The 3M product I used was a heavy duty headliner product that was yelow and took 15 minutes to set up properly before attaching.You had to do this outside the fumes were awful. My old boss used this stuff to install vinyl tops if I remember correctly.
Hope this answers your questions,
George

[67ramairowner]

Originally Posted by blue goats

67,
Frost King is a HVAC product sold at Lowes where I live. It is a self adhesive wrap with an aluminum style outside and mastic black 1/4" thick part that looks like dynaliner sold at audio stores. It is much lighter than dynaliner and sticks to itself and clean steel pretty well. BUT the adhesive backed frost king would NOT stick well to my roof so I used 3M headliner spray adhesive on both the frost king and the roof then installed. The 3M product I used was a heavy duty headliner product that was yelow and took 15 minutes to set up properly before attaching.You had to do this outside the fumes were awful. My old boss used this stuff to install vinyl tops if I remember correctly.
Hope this answers your questions,
George

Since you mentioned it....about your boss and the headliners. This project is gonna require a headline redo for me. Like you apparently now do I once worked in an auto upholstery shop way W-A-Y back when. I already need to get some of that glue for the headliner part of this project.

It sure sounds like you are using the same stuff I remember. If I recall correctly we brushed it on...one of those small brushes that are part of the lid of the can. Same as you say you did we applied it to both mating surfaces. The stuff went on the headliner and to the area that the headliner was gonna be stuck to. wait a few minutes and get to work fitting the headliner. The stuff was kinda gell like...sorta like the "slime" on Ghost Busters. It had a fair "working time" where you could move things around to get wrinkles out..tighten up corners ect. ect. ect. 3M makes some spray on stuff these days. The product I worked with back in the shop way back in the dark ages was much better for headliner work than anything I have ever seen come out of today's spray cans.

Can you possibly get me a Manufacturer name and a product number?

[blue goats]

67
Will do but I am gone till Sunday.
George

[67ramairowner]

Originally Posted by blue goats

67
Will do but I am gone till Sunday.
George

George

Thankyou!!!

If this stuff is from 3M they have a web site that you can use and a GREAT Call Center. The issue is that they make SOOOOOOOOO many products it is hard to actually get thru the endless list even when you are talking to someone.

Have a great holiday !!!

"67"

[beargfr]

I used Eastwood's "dynamat clone" on my 69. It's cut to fit but it's an easy job with a sharp utility knife. Price is right, and so far I like it a lot.

Bear

[70gtorag]

Search for B-quiet sound deader. Company is located in Alberta, Canada. Products are equall to Dynamat or better, and half the price. Comes in 50 foot rolls, 12" wide. I did my 70 GTO entire interior floor area and doors with two rolls. Also supplemented the floors with V-comp noise barrier. great products.

[67ramairowner]

Originally Posted by 70gtorag

Search for B-quiet sound deader. Company is located in Alberta, Canada. Products are equall to Dynamat or better, and half the price. Comes in 50 foot rolls, 12" wide. I did my 70 GTO entire interior floor area and doors with two rolls. Also supplemented the floors with V-comp noise barrier. great products.

70GTORAG

This is primarily a conversation about thermal insulation as opposed to sound insulation. I think this product has some merit based on what you say ..Dynamatt is is EXPENSIVE and the Pre Cut sets for the floors are REALLY crazy price wise so this might be an answer for me.

Having said that...what is your experience with this product from a thermal insulation point of view? I am working on an A/C installation and the heat load the A/C has to deal with is a function of the thermal barrier to hold heat out and cool air in.

Thx "67"

[67ramairowner]

Originally Posted by beargfr

I used Eastwood's "dynamat clone" on my 69. It's cut to fit but it's an easy job with a sharp utility knife. Price is right, and so far I like it a lot.

Bear

BEar

I assume you meant to say "it is NOT cut to fit"? I can live with that. Any qualitiative comments about insulation and sound deadening properties? This is mostly about heat insulation capability but at the same time I don't want to increase noise !!!

Thanks

"67"

[70gtorag]

My experience with the product was primarily for acoustic properties. The thermal properties of the products were also important, but did not influence the decision. The goal was to reduce noise caused by vibration, engine noise, road noise, etc. As well I installed an awesome stereo system and wanted to keep the sound within the vehicle, and cut down vibration. The result is a much quieter ride, and much less heat transmission from the engine/tranny area. The website www.b-quiet.com will only give you the acoustic properties, and will also price compare their product to the waaayyy expensive Dynamat, which is mainly why I chimed in on the thread. As I said, for my install I did the entire interior of the car, from the bottom edge of the front windshield to the back of the seats, and from door glass to door glass. The product is easy to install, as it forms and molds itself to the contours of the metal, with some persuasion of course, and in the difficult areas the aid of a blow dryer or heat gun help it flow better.
I wish I could help you answer the real question you are after about thermal resistance but I do not know. You could try the contact us button on the web page and ask if a tech can help you. Good Luck.

[67ramairowner]

Originally Posted by 70gtorag

My experience with the product was primarily for acoustic properties. The thermal properties of the products were also important, but did not influence the decision. The goal was to reduce noise caused by vibration, engine noise, road noise, etc. As well I installed an awesome stereo system and wanted to keep the sound within the vehicle, and cut down vibration. The result is a much quieter ride, and much less heat transmission from the engine/tranny area. The website www.b-quiet.com will only give you the acoustic properties, and will also price compare their product to the waaayyy expensive Dynamat, which is mainly why I chimed in on the thread. As I said, for my install I did the entire interior of the car, from the bottom edge of the front windshield to the back of the seats, and from door glass to door glass. The product is easy to install, as it forms and molds itself to the contours of the metal, with some persuasion of course, and in the difficult areas the aid of a blow dryer or heat gun help it flow better.
I wish I could help you answer the real question you are after about thermal resistance but I do not know. You could try the contact us button on the web page and ask if a tech can help you. Good Luck.

OK that is a lead I can follow. Thankyou!!!!!

Yes I am looking at the thermal as well as the insulation properties. I guess gettin old and craggy makes me want the perf and "charm" of the old cars with the amenities of the newer cars. I am going to be either installing a stock A/C system or a Vintage Air Gen IV.. HUGE struggle which way to go because I have almost all the parts for the factory sys but the VA is a quicker install. This car is 1/2 way to having the VA installed already....everything under the hood is done and everything under the hood can work with the old factory OEM in dash parts. Conversion to R134 is easy for the OEM parts I would retain inside the car.

Insulation is the real issue..sound is important but living in Atlanta I gotta be cold not "sorta cool" or I wont enjoy the car in the high heat and humidity. V Air sounds good from some reports..other reports no so good. Conversion of OEM to R134 seems better but I gotta be confident before money changes hands!

Thanks again

[niceta]

[QUOTE=70gtorag;4475881] The website www.b-quiet.com will only give you the acoustic properties, and will also price compare their product to the waaayyy expensive Dynamat, which is mainly why I chimed in on the thread. QUOTE]

Thanks for the link to the website and the b-quiet product. I have been looking for something in my own province so I dont have to pay large shipping charges as this stuff is fairly heavy.

[blue goats]

67,
08090 is the stuff I used to glue frost king to the roof.
George

[67ramairowner]

Originally Posted by blue goats

67,
08090 is the stuff I used to glue frost king to the roof.
George

08090 from 3M I assume???

[Engine-Ear]

I think so...

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...gl43V9HPSW7Gbl

[blue goats]

Yup

[67ramairowner]

Originally Posted by blue goats

Yup

Thanks to everyone!!!!!!

"67"

[niceta]

Just purchased 100 sqft of the ukltimate from B-quiet and a roller for around $300 CND. about $150-$200 cheaper than dynomat. And the part about it not sticking as well as the brand names (which I don't buy)... well, I guess I can use the spray glue (3M) if need be. I will post her once I get it in to let everyone know how it works.

[HWYSTR455]

I did a bunch of homework on this topic before I took the plunge, and, after all was said and done, chose the Dynamat products. Yeah, I know they cost more, but I also know it has had consistent results, and all that have used it have said it worked as advertised. Do you really want to have to do it again? So, it costs a little more.

There is as all know some R value to Dynamat, but it's an acoustical mat, not a thermal mat. And as stated, there's Dynaliner, the heat barrier product. Why try to use or tout the acoustical product as a thremal barrier? You want a thermal barrier, use the thermal product, no-brainer to me. If you are only concerned with thermal, then use only the Dynaliner. And that's super easy to apply, light, easy to cut, etc.

I did the cutlass project with Dyna products. I didn't line up the labels, I didn't make sure every square inch was covered, and sure it's not as pretty as some other installs. But it works. It doesn't have to be perfect, the impact is so minimal, not even funny trying to compare.


.

[70gtorag]

The Ultimate product from B-Quiet is just about identical to Dynamat. It sticks, guaranteed! Prep the floor before applying it by wiping it down with a solvent soaked rag, ensure you have clean metal before applying. Overlap all edges and get complete coverage, use a heat gun and soft cloth to work it in the nooks and crannies where the roller will not go. This product will flow easily when warm, and absolutely no issues with sticking, in fact be careful with your placement since it will not peel back for a retry, once down it is down for good. Use the largest peices possible and pull off the paper backing only as far as you want to work the length. You will not need 3M glue for this application at all!