[RocktimusPryme]

I got a good deal on a Hyperspark setup to start taking advantange of timing control with the Stealth TBI Terminator X.

When I jam it in, how do I switch from no timing control over to the hyperspark?

Do I run the initial start-up Wizard again from the handheld? Would that give up a more than a year of learning on the system?

Supplmental question. With some many pontiacs having a similar setup, E-heads, mild roller, etc. Is there a good basetune out there that would be better than the setup on the wizard to start? I have bathtub heads which like a tick more timing, but I gotta think its all pretty similar.

[HWYSTR455]

You can checkout this Holley vid, or search for others:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=utMnoRj-3oc

You can use the handheld, but in the long run, you will get finer tuning with the desktop software.

https://www.holley.com/support/fuel_...r_x_and_x_max/

The 'learned' parameters are only changes to the base fuel map, based off the AFR values you selected. There is a learn table that has all those parameters, and won't be effected by making a change to the ignition.

EFI System Pro has some general info that can be helpful:

https://www.efisystempro.com/efi-pro...fi-instruction


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[RocktimusPryme]

Yeah EFi Systems has some info specific to the Terminator to Hyperspark setup. Apparently, there is a glitch that you have to change a number when installing with a Terminator.

Holley did respond to a tech help request, they said by far the easiest option would be to just run the set-up wizard again. So I will probably do that.

Not that the tuning is beyond me, Im generally computer saavy, but I really don't know where to start. Im thinking about paying for a custom tune from EFI Systems. I have to find my USB to Can bus port. I have one, but I cant remember where I put it.

[HWYSTR455]

It's not that difficult, once you play with it, get to know it, it's all downhill.

Most places that do a 'custom tune' really don't go deep with it, and the ones that do cost tons of money.

You can start with the tune based on your inputs on the wizard, and go from there.


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[HWYSTR455]

What 'number' has to be changed?


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[RocktimusPryme]

Yeah.

Let me get this installed and then I can revisit that.

I have a dyno sheet so I know where my car should make max power timing wise. I don't really know what to do with fuel maps.

[Lee]

That system will datalog, correct? Drive around collecting some data, then look at the log. Pull up the VE table as well. Close out the data you don't need. VE, target AFR and actual AFR are mainly what you need. Maybe %correction, as when it helps me to 'see' if I need to add or subtraction from the VE table.

If it works like the FAST system, as you scroll through the log, the "football" will move on the VE table to correspond with where you are on the log.

Say the football is right over a certain cell and the cell value is 60, the requested AFR is 14.0, and the actual AFR is 14.4 (postive % correction). That indicates that you are lean, so the VE is actually higher than 60. Quickie math says you are about 3% lean, so add 3% to 60.... make that cell 62.

Live tuning, if you can do that, is pretty cool. Get somebody to drive you around while you watch the data. If you are rich over a few cells, then lower the VE of those cells. If lean, the raise the VE.

Oversimplified, but it will get you started.

[HWYSTR455]

The out of the box base fuel maps are safe, but as long as you have accurate AFRs entered, it will adjust the fuel map accordingly. Creep up on it.

I think out of box learning is set to 100%.

Remember, 10% ethanol gas is 14.1-14.3 stoich or so, not 14.7 , and every engine is different.

Engine on a dyno is different than the same engine in a car on the street. I see too many people put too much timing in because that's what it wanted on a dyno. (no load)

Yes, you can do overlays of datalogs on the tune, but to really make things better you have to use the desktop software. You can also tune real time (live tuning) while driving too (with a 2nd person of course).


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[RocktimusPryme]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

What 'number' has to be changed?


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Ignition reference angle.

Click on the link you sent me and there is a link about Demystifying ignition wiring. Then look at terminator with hyperspark.

[RocktimusPryme]

I got it all installed. Was all pretty straightforward. It kinda hard started on me the early on, but it seems to have done some learning since because I haven't had the issue again.

I did have the change that IRA spot from 50.0 to 57.5 as EFI Systems Pros mentioned.

I set my Rev Limiter to 6400 and I initially set my WOT timing at 34.5. On the engine dyno I made the best power at 35-36*. I have the older bathtub E Heads that tend to want a bit more timing than the later models.

I also found my Can Bus to USB cable so I can use my computer.

[HWYSTR455]

Make sure you sync your timing, especially the inductive delay:

https://forums.holley.com/forum/holl...ng-Holley-EFI=



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[RocktimusPryme]

Whats the point? Other than verifying timing. Is this one of those things where stabbing it in with the little plastic cap gets you really close, but this just verifies you are exactly where the software thinks you are?

And why isn't it in the hyperspark instructions?

That whole thing is a word soup and difficult to follow. If this is something everyone should be doing I might try to write it more clearly.

[HWYSTR455]

The point is, it can advance or retard beyond what the programmed values are. And every install is slightly different, so you can't take it for granted. I know it threw me for a loop at first.

If you watch the holley dual sync install video, the adjustment is mentioned.


Here's one thread on it:

https://forums.holley.com/forum/holl...-what-is-right

" Just to recap - Synchronizing the EFI timing (laptop) with the engine timing (timing light):
NOTE: Temporarily disable the "Idle Spark" control (in Idle Settings).

1) Turn the distributor or adjust the crank trigger to synchronize the initial (idle) timing, then lock it down.
Next, ensure timing is synchronized at higher RPM using the EFI software.
NOTE: Now use the EFI software "Enable Static Timing Set". I use a static timing value of 25° or 30°.

2) Momentarily rev the engine, and watch the timing advance with your timing light. It shouldn't move.

If timing advances or retards, adjust the "Inductive Delay" until the timing maintains itself.
If the ignition timing retards, increase this value. If the timing advances, decrease this value."

In the dual sync vid, it was recommended to go in increments of 20. It's not difficult, and it is important. Has nothing to do with rotor phasing.

Why isn't in the instructions? Because the instructions are outdated, for one.


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[HWYSTR455]

As an example, in my case, timing was advancing more than 20 degrees once you got over 2000 or so RPM.


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[RocktimusPryme]

Ill play with it and see what I can find. Since it seems to be an overlooked item, I might film it for my fledgling youtube channel. Try do get an easy tutorial out there that might be easier to follow than that thread post.