[HWYSTR455]

Thread-serts and riv-nuts are good, but you have to make sure the hole is the correct size. In some cases, that means you have to buy a fractional drill bit.

Take care drilling the hole too, and don't go back & forth thru the hole, or it will loosen up.

Once you go over about 1/4" size, or if using steel inserts, no way can you use the plyers type of setting tool, has to be the larger setting tool.

I know a lot of people use a plate with nuts welded to them, and fished them into the frame from the front or from the spring pocket.



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['ol Pinion head]

Carefully weld the edges of the stripped hole, then re tap.
Alum riv-nuts have their place, a front swaybar mtg hole is not one of them.

[78w72]

bigger than 1/4" or steel rivnuts can be installed without the special tool... they dont use pliers, they use a bolt/nut/washer set up with wrenches that will set a 3/8 steel rivnut without a problem.

Originally Posted by 'ol Pinion head

Alum riv-nuts have their place, a front swaybar mtg hole is not one of them.

The rivnuts i showed from fastenal are not aluminum, they are steel.

[HWYSTR455]

Pics of both types of setting tools attached.

You can monkey it with washers/bolt combo, but if you've ever had to remove one that did not set right, you will always use the tool from that point on.


The inserts only compress so far, and if the hole isn't the correct size, they will either be loose, or won't compress enough to conform to the hole.



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[Greg Reid]

Originally Posted by 'ol Pinion head

Carefully weld the edges of the stripped hole, then re tap.

That was my original plan of action and still an option. Going to look into the rivnut first.

[78w72]

Im aware of the tools for this, was just stating that they can be installed properly, no monkeying, without the tool and that wrenches not pliers are used for the DIY approach from what Ive seen or watched others do. They even sell a "tool" that mimics the bolt/nut/washer DIY set up. https://www.amazon.com/Rivnut-Insert...a-726518485150

Heres a few vids showing how to do it without the tool for those interested, the riv nut compresses to the thickness of the metal its used on, the drilled hole has to be the right size of the rivnut used but being a tad too large or small wont make it not install right if fully compressed. for the 3/8 rivnuts discussed here, a standard 9/16" drill bit is what most call for.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=heLMQYwE1_o

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WYvvdwSMNVE

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u4huFzeQIgw

[HWYSTR455]

I wasn't saying use plyers for a diy approach, I was talking about the tool that has plyer-type handles, like in the pic I posted.

When using steel rivet nuts, when you do the bolt/wrench/nut thing, it can tweak to one side, and can cause it to fail prematurely from not tightening evenly/square against the bulkhead. Ask an airframe mechanic, they will tell you.

Do it however you feel like doing it, but can say for certain using the correct tool makes for the best possible installation.


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[b-man]

The original design was terrible, tapping threads in a relatively thin frame rail was a half baked way to do the sway bar attachment. As many of you have found the first time you try to replace the bushings or upgrade to a bigger sway bar the threads in the frame fail. Of course going to a larger stiffer sway bar increases the the stress and the ability of the one or maybe one and a half threads at best that are tapped in the frame to hold.

When I upgraded both of my ‘64 A-body Pontiacs to the 1-1/4” T/A front sway bar I had the front bumper removed which allowed fairly easy access to the inside of the frame. I was able to place some 17mm hex M10 metric nuts inside the frame and used the factory metric sway bar bolts. Nice and tight installation, those large hex nuts provide plenty of area inside to prevent any kind of pull through and are likely stronger than a Riv-Nut.

The frame rails are pretty straight in front so probably much easier to get those nuts inside on ‘64 - ‘67 A-body cars than on later ones.

[Scarebird]

I tried to make a welded strap across the top of a pair of grade 8 bolts then drop it thru inside the frame - the lower steering box bolt got in the way.

Were I to do this again, I would make a pad of 3/8" steel with threaded holes and weld it to the frame. May help idler arm interference too.

[78w72]

Im sure installing these or anything can go wrong, but Ive never seen a rivnut go sideways using the bolt/nut/washer set up, the vids posted & a bunch of others show the rivnuts being compressed nice & square as the bolt is tightened by hand or with a drill.

Just showing a DIY way to do it that doesnt require a ~$40-50 dollar tool for a one time or rare occasion use... if youre an aircraft mechanic or install a bunch of these then a special tool is best.

[Greg Reid]

That's my objection to buying the tool. I may never need it again for the rest of my life.

[HWYSTR455]

I use thread-serts/rivet nuts alot. I use them for all my grounds, into the frame and/or panels, ensures the best possible contact. I rarely use sheet metal screws anymore, all are thread-serts/rivet nuts.


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