[FMile Pontiacs]

Just wanted to post a picture of one of the rod bearings from my 463. This engine has probably 350-400 passes on it shifting at 6400 and crossing the quarter at around 7200. What do you all think? Does this look like average wear or do you see anything concerning?
Thanks

[Half-Inch Stud]

Hmmm, looks like the Cap; not the usual wear. Oil psi was plentiful. How about the Rod' Beam Bearing.

[FMile Pontiacs]

Originally Posted by Half-Inch Stud

Hmmm, looks like the Cap; not the usual wear. Oil psi was plentiful. How about the Rod' Beam Bearing.

I will have to snap a couple more pics tomorrow.

[HWYSTR455]

Looks like rod journal and/or big end taper. Or the chamfer/radius is out of whack.


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[mgarblik]

Eagle connecting rods?

[FMile Pontiacs]

Here are some more pics. These are from cylinders 1-4. All Rod bearing are pretty much wearing just like these 4 examples.

[FMile Pontiacs]

Originally Posted by mgarblik

Eagle connecting rods?

It is a Eagle Crankshaft but Ohio Rods.

[Half-Inch Stud]

Could be said that side of the bearing sees the high RPM tension.

Wonderin about the other shells that see the compressive loads.

[FMile Pontiacs]

Originally Posted by Half-Inch Stud

Could be said that side of the bearing sees the high RPM tension.

Wonderin about the other shells that see the compressive loads.

Do you mean the beam end of the rod? Those were in thise pics. Each picture was the Rod cap pictured with the rest of the rod. I feel like it may have seen some detonation as the beam side bearings had some wear in the top most section.

[HWYSTR455]

Either the rod big ends or the crank journals are tapered or out of round is what it looks like to me, there's areas of the bearing that's not even contacting the journal.

I may be reading that wrong but that's what it looks like to me.

Is it possible you need chamfered bearings? Snap a pic of the crank journals with an angle that shows the radius.

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[HWYSTR455]

Take a pic of the big end from the side, with the bearings and cap on.

Make sure the chamfer of the bearing isn't contacting the radius before the rod bottoms against the side.

It kind of looks like the bearing is being crushed from the sides facing the journal throw, tightening the sides, or the big end or crank journal isn't true.

[mgarblik]

The bearings show "spot wear". No idea of your bearing clearances, but the crankpins or the housing bores are not showing straight and round conditions because the oil wedge is not consistent through the bearings and that's why it shows spot wear. Yes detonation can pound the bearings and produce similar results but I don't see any bearing material being ripped out. Just inconsistent loading. I would suggest cleaning and assembling the rods. Torque them to specs and take them to a good machine shop and have them measured for size, taper and out of round. I think they will need to be rebuilt to make them work properly in your engine. Not surprised at all by what I see. I asked if they were Eagle rods because this is what we see regularly when new. Many of them need to be reconditioned before use in a race engine. Crankshaft may need to be polished as well. No big deal.

[HWYSTR455]

Yeah, can't use rods out of box without prep, that's for sure, but think that's obvious, no?

My ohio crank needed to go 10 under on the mains and 20 under on the rods to be true. That's a pisser, it removes at least 1 rebuild off a new crank.



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[Half-Inch Stud]

Originally Posted by FMile Pontiacs

Do you mean the beam end of the rod? Those were in thise pics. Each picture was the Rod cap pictured with the rest of the rod. I feel like it may have seen some detonation as the beam side bearings had some wear in the top most section.

Ah, I so missed that due to the angle. Well, oil was present, maybe insufficient psi but maybe Rod or Crank Journal out of round, and trow in a taper somewhere. Overall i dunno for sure.

Seems the crank and rods need trued-up!

[steve25]

For the sake of general info any rod bolt should get replaced after five torque up session at most .
The factory torqued them up once to size them and then you did at least once to assemble the motor the first time.

So how many times have you assembled the motor and during each time did you set the pre-load by stretch like when they where first sized, or did you just torque them.

If it turns out that the rods do need to get re-sized and in turn you will be torquing them up for the 5th time then I would replace them now just to be on the safe side.

Heck some builders / racers replace them if the 4th time is coming up!

Also during assembly and do that you do not twist the rod from top to bottom they should get torqued up with a tight fitting feeler gauge in between the rods.

This means that until you have a pair of rods on the crank journal the bolts should only be brought up to being snug, then once the feeler gauge is in place the torquing up can start.

H beam rods will not twist, but a I beam type might.

Also if your crank is cast and just needs a polish or even need to be cut be tripple sure that the shop knows how to properly polish a Nodular cast crank, other wise the finish on the rod journals will act like a very fine sand paper.

[hurryinhoosier62]

Originally Posted by mgarblik

The bearings show "spot wear". No idea of your bearing clearances, but the crankpins or the housing bores are not showing straight and round conditions because the oil wedge is not consistent through the bearings and that's why it shows spot wear. Yes detonation can pound the bearings and produce similar results but I don't see any bearing material being ripped out. Just inconsistent loading. I would suggest cleaning and assembling the rods. Torque them to specs and take them to a good machine shop and have them measured for size, taper and out of round. I think they will need to be rebuilt to make them work properly in your engine. Not surprised at all by what I see. I asked if they were Eagle rods because this is what we see regularly when new. Many of them need to be reconditioned before use in a race engine. Crankshaft may need to be polished as well. No big deal.

X 2, Mike. Whether it’s the crank or the rods themselves something isn’t “true”.

[Dragncar]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

Yeah, can't use rods out of box without prep, that's for sure, but think that's obvious, no?

My ohio crank needed to go 10 under on the mains and 20 under on the rods to be true. That's a pisser, it removes at least 1 rebuild off a new crank.



.

I have had to hone the big end of every set of China rods I have ever bought, except for Molnar. Dead nuts on size.
Eagle crank, same thing. Had to go .010-.010
The 2 Scat forgings I have, on size out of the box.

[FMile Pontiacs]

I will take the crank and rods to the machine shop for reconditioning I will report back the results. It will probably be a few weeks before corrections are complete.

Machine shop Jail.

[FMile Pontiacs]

Thanks to all who commented.

[blueghoast]

Great info here

GT