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#1
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Front Sway Bar--Reinforcement???
I read some previous front sway bar threads and they seem to focus on the 1&1/4” bar and the need for reinforced mounting, e.g. nutserts, etc.
I’m putting a 1&1/8” OEM bar on a 64 GTO replacing the original 15/16” bar. Questions: Will this larger bar require nutserts or equivalent? OR, since everything is still apart play it safe and install nutserts? The bar is from a 70 GTO but I didn’t have access to the frame to see what type factory mounting was used. |
#2
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Depends on how the car is going to be driven and what type of tires it has on it.
This becomes an issue more in performance driving situations like auto-x and when sticky tires capable of generating more grip are concerned. If you're adding the bar to a near stock chassis and continuing to utilize basic street type tires, it's probably not necessary. If you intent to really hammer on the car a lot and use sticky rubber, I'd probably go ahead and do it.
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-Jason 1969 Pontiac Firebird |
#3
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You will notice a difference with the bigger bar.. I would use it, no sense spending money on parts you dont need.. The end links do the work. They make some real slick end links today but I would just use the polys..
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#4
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PTFB makes a brace that goes between the bar and the frame horns that helps prevent ripping out the bolts, works on both A and F bodies.
http://pro-touringf-body.com/chassis_components.html If you have it apart, and easy access, it makes sense to install nut-serts. Use only steel ones, and you have to buy the large type insert tools. Some use a plate with 2 nuts welded to it, slipped into the frame from the front, which is a good option too, but you may have trouble lining it up on install. Once installed, it's good. .
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. 1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2 http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624 1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be |
#5
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Quote:
Originally these were used in 1982-92 F's as when GM stepped up to large sticky tires (IROC, 1LE's) they had deformation issues in parking lots of all things! I tried the 2 bolts welded to a bar inside the frame on my 71 - difficulty with steering box bolts stopped that, along with the 2 frame halves making the mount uneven and went to nutserts. That, and the bolt spacing of the straps makes nuts difficult with large bars - you need Allen headed bolts to fit. |
#6
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Quote:
When the frame twists, it can put load on individual opposing sway bar bolts. .
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. 1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2 http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624 1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be |
#7
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Quote:
After install big difference. Plus the fact that it drove better at 135mph at the track. I was skeptical at first but it was a huge improvement that I could actually feel. They are on all my GTO's and my T/A now. That is good price on that one.
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66 GTO Nostalgia Super Stock/Street Legal Car 421 CID, stock block, Wenzler Intake, 2- Carter 750 AFB's, 3.90 Gears, Full Factory Interior, Full Exhaust, Stock Suspension 3750LBS 9.77@136.99 Multiple NSCA/NMCA World Champion 66 GTO 389 3x2, 4 speed, 4.33 gear, Montero Red 33K original Miles 67 GTO 2dr Post, 428, Tri Power, 3.55 Gears 80 Trans Am Black SE Y84 W72 WS6 |
#8
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Thanks for the info guys. The frame is off the car and totally bare so I have easy access to try the various methods suggested.
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#9
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I used large hex nuts inside the frame using the factory bolts for attaching the 1.25” F-body bar on both of my ‘64 A-body cars.
The hex size was 11/16” or maybe 17mm, I’ve forgotten whether the factory F-body hardware had metric or SAE threads. Either way the nuts weren’t too hard to place with the front bumper and brackets removed. One sits close to a steering box bolt but worked out fine. That large hex acts as a washer to keep from pulling through. The nuts can be held in place with body dumdum.
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1964 Tempest Coupe LS3/4L70E/3.42 1964 Le Mans Convertible 421 HO/TH350/2.56 2002 WS6 Convertible LS1/4L60E/3.23 |
#10
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b-man--sounds good. As I noted everything is apart so your method is something I will look at...Thanks...
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#11
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If you have a good frame, the NUTSERTS work very well with just a drilling operation.
And the NUTSERT tools are NOT that expensive for the improvement. I have helped probably 10 guys with installing NUTSERTS on their frames, for the cost of a Breakfast at a restaurant. Tom V.
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"Engineers do stuff for reasons" Tom Vaught Despite small distractions, there are those who will go Forward, Learning, Sharing Knowledge, Doing what they can to help others move forward. |
#12
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Brace has to help the main problem with the large bar, and that is the frame flexing. On my '67 GTO I could see the fenders move around on spirited cornering after installing the aftermarket bar. Swear that I had as much body roll as before except now the frame and fenders were involved. Just very little rigidity to the front of those A-body frames.
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Mick Batson 1967 original owner Tyro Blue/black top 4-speed HO GTO with all the original parts stored safely away -- 1965 2+2 survivor AC auto -- 1965 Catalina Safari Wagon in progress. |
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