[ZeGermanHam]

Instead of priming, you could just wipe down any bare metal surface with Eastwood Fast Etch, which will keep it free of rust for years until you are ready to prime and paint.

FYI, if you decide to prime it yourself but have someone else paint it, be aware that any painter who is worth using will not be able to guarantee their work because the surface prep will be a wild card from their perspective. Beyond that, some painters won't even take jobs that have been primed by someone else. They often just don't want to put their name behind something that runs the risk of falling apart due in no part to them, but they get the blame. Just something to keep in mind as you work through this process.

[nytrainer]

[QUOTE=ZeGermanHam;6305962]Instead of priming, you could just spray any bare metal surface with Eastwood Fast Etch….]
The problem with etch primer is body filler doesn’t adhere to it well (if at all) and it doesn’t play well with SPI epoxy primer. When ready for filler work I would want to remove any trace of etch primer and then I’d still then epoxy prime before filler. IMO using etch makes for much more work.

[ZeGermanHam]

Originally Posted by nytrainer

The problem with etch primer is body filler doesn’t adhere to it well (if at all) and it doesn’t play well with SPI epoxy primer. When ready for filler work I would want to remove any trace of etch primer and then I’d still then epoxy prime before filler. IMO using etch makes for much more work.

Not sure we're talking about the same thing. Eastwood Fast Etch is not primer, it's just a clear acid-based solution with zinc that removes rust and prevents it from forming. It's also an adhesion promoter. It comes in a spray bottle and you wipe it on with a rag. When you're ready for priming and paint, you remove it with lacquer thinner and then go through the typical metal cleaning process to prepare for spraying the panel with epoxy primer.

[Entropy11]

I think Ospho might be a good answer if you’re working here/there around different areas. As mentioned above, you’re going to be hard pressed to find any epoxy that doesn’t care about a minimum application/cure temperature that is probably unobtainable in most of the north without heat. With Ospho you can work an area, protect it, get back into it a day/week/month later and pick right up where you left off (with a side benefit of possibly “cleaner” or more well prepped metal than when you coated it last). If you’re using epoxy primer you’d also not be able to take advantage of the window to build your next coats up on without having to sand. Some brands of epoxy do take to sanding better (I won’t go there) than others so you might be creating more work.

I believe milkstone remover has the same qualities as “Ospho”. Not trying to push any one product!

[cdrookie]

I used Seymour Zinc Phosphate to cover the bare metal of my car after I removed the paint. The can has the worst finger cramping spray nozzle I ever used, which really surprised me being a Seymour. product. Aside from that, it worked well for the year or so it was on before it went for paint. I'm in the other corner of PA and my garage has a little heat, but not enough to paint in. I got a couple florescent lights I shine on stuff before I paint it. Electric heaters work ok but the kerosene one was the best.

https://www.seymourpaint.com/product...sphate-primer/

[misterp266]

Originally Posted by cdrookie

. . . . .The can has the worst finger cramping spray nozzle I ever used, which really surprised me being a Seymour product. . . . .

https://www.seymourpaint.com/product...sphate-primer/

Try one of these!

[drewm]

Thanks to everyone for the great ideas.

[78w72]

Originally Posted by Entropy11

My apologies, wasn’t trying to promote one brand or trash any others… there are many great products out there.

That being said, I recommend it because of the quality, the price, the ease of application, and the support the manufacturer gives to even the diy’er, as well as the free shipping for any order size. It’s also nice to mix a quantity of epoxy and use the leftover a day or 2 later without issue. Oh and the UV inhibitors. I’ll stop there because now it is sounding like a commercial.

Scratch what I said in my earlier posts… I’ll just advise using an epoxy, preferably sprayed.

thanks but no apologies needed, i was just saying that there are other brands that will work very well, doesnt always need to be 1 specific brand shot from a gun.... especially for this type of spot priming.

Originally Posted by dhutton

Summit epoxy etc is Kirker afaik. Ok for collision work imho. I don’t see how you can buy quality resins and sell epoxy for $50 per sprayable gallon retail with multiple price markups. Definitely not top shelf. Same goes for Eastwood….

I would rather buy from a known source than some private label of unknown origin.

Don

didnt suggest it was "top shelf"... & this shop doesnt do any collision work, only street rods & classics & higher end complete builds but he does work within customers budgets too & the car he used the summit epoxy on wasnt a high dollar job. was just mentioning there are other brands besides SPI that are very good quality.

i used a different brand epoxy on my firebird endura nose following the popular prepping steps & it worked out very well with no issues. professionals dont all use 1 specific brand & for the most part have very good results, my paint guy uses dupont for his paints & clears & swears by them, others like different brands. buy from the source you prefer, but there are other quality options out there.

[dhutton]

Originally Posted by 78w72

thanks but no apologies needed, i was just saying that there are other brands that will work very well, doesnt always need to be 1 specific brand shot from a gun.... especially for this type of spot priming.



didnt suggest it was "top shelf"... & this shop doesnt do any collision work, only street rods & classics & higher end complete builds but he does work within customers budgets too & the car he used the summit epoxy on wasnt a high dollar job. was just mentioning there are other brands besides SPI that are very good quality.

i used a different brand epoxy on my firebird endura nose following the popular prepping steps & it worked out very well with no issues. professionals dont all use 1 specific brand & for the most part have very good results, my paint guy uses dupont for his paints & clears & swears by them, others like different brands. buy from the source you prefer, but there are other quality options out there.

Sorry but $50 per gallon epoxy will never see one of my builds, budget or not. I’ll also never apologize for recommending SPI products. They are top quality and their tech support is second to none. I am doing folks a favor imho…

Don

[nytrainer]

Originally Posted by dhutton

Sorry but $50 per gallon epoxy will never see one of my builds, budget or not. I’ll also never apologize for recommending SPI products. They are top quality and their tech support is second to none. I am doing folks a favor imho…

Don

To add on to Don’s statement I only give recommendations for things I have first hand knowledge of, in this case, by using their epoxy primer for years now. I would never recommend anything I have never actually used. Btw I’ve used almost every product that they make.

[78w72]

Originally Posted by dhutton

Sorry but $50 per gallon epoxy will never see one of my builds, budget or not. I’ll also never apologize for recommending SPI products. They are top quality and their tech support is second to none. I am doing folks a favor imho…

Don

i wasnt suggesting it for one of your builds... it was a general mention of other brands related to the OPs question of what can be use for spot priming his patch work, it can be sanded down later for final prep. summit was mentioned only as a budget option thats better than a rattle can primer, i watched it being applied & then saw it cured over the next few weeks & seemed like a good hard coat. also, this wasnt used on the whole car, it was a shell of a body that was blasted & had some floor & trunk work done, it was provided by the customer as a lower cost way to seal those areas while the rest of the car is built.

Originally Posted by nytrainer

To add on to Don’s statement I only give recommendations for things I have first hand knowledge of, in this case, by using their epoxy primer for years now. I would never recommend anything I have never actually used. Btw I’ve used almost every product that they make.

my post was stating my first handl knowledge of using another brand of epoxy that had excellent results, i cant recall the name but it was sold through a big local auto paint supply store, but any decent brand epoxy will work for the OPs situation. & the summit stuff i didnt use myself but i watched 75% of it being applied & saw the car over the next few weeks, just relaying that the guy that used it was surprised it was pretty decent, or better than its price would suggest. SPI is great stuff based on what ive read, wasnt questioning that, only mentioning there are other good choices out there too for this type of situation.

[nytrainer]

78w72,
I wasn’t intentionally referring to anything you posted in this thread. I was just stating that I’ve used a lot of SPI and would recommend it. Obviously you’ve used another epoxy and if your results were good then your recommendation is as valid as mine.
We’re all just trying to give OP some options.