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kk68 · 09-22-2005, 11:56 PM

Anyone successfully restored the tail light buckets/housing for 68-69 GTO? I have my original set in good shape except the light sockets are rusted pretty bad. Is there a way to clean them up or is it best to replace them. Original wiring is all there and in good shape so I would like to keep all original including the sockets if possible. If I need to replace what is best type/brand of socket to use and how do they install in fiberglass housing? Are OEM style metal sockets available? How do you get the old ones out without trashing the buckets?

I know this must be a common problem since the buckets are not reproduced - that I know of. Love to hear about some successful restos. Tips and photos would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

68 GTO convertible, triple white, 400 4bbl auto

Verdoro 68 · 09-23-2005, 12:49 PM

I had a couple bad ones on my car. As far as I know there isn't an easy way to repair them so I replaced them with a some similar metal sockets I found at the auto parts store. I know Ames sells replacements in their catalog if you can't find any locally.

I carefully extracted the rusty sockets and clipped the wires relatively close to the socket. I had to route out the socket hole to make it big enough for the replacement socket. I used a Dremel tool for that. I was careful not to route them out too much because I wanted a really snug fit with the new sockets. Once I got the sockets fit up I used a little bit of JB Weld to seal them in place. When the JB Weld dried I used the Dremel and some sand paper to smooth it over. Finally, I soldered the new leads to the original harness and used some heat shrink tubing to seal off the joint. If you use the tubing, don't forget to slide the piece on to the wire before you solder.

While you are back there be sure to check out your grounds. I made some new ground straps out of some scrap 22 gauge metal I had laying around. The original plastic insulation sheath slides right off the originals so I reused them. I also gave the inside of the housings a fresh coat of reflective aluminum paint and polished up the lenses. Don't forget to replace the housing to bumper gaskets and the lens to housing gaskets to keep moisture out.

kk68 · 09-25-2005, 10:02 AM

Ken, thanks for the tips. Sounds like you did a nice job. I will look for replacement metal sockets.

Kevin

CDN2PLS2 · 09-25-2005, 01:09 PM

I soldered new grounds on mine and they're the brightest '68 tailites I've seen.

h0trod389 · 09-25-2005, 02:07 PM

i also used generic light sockets,
i cut the old ones off, drilled a bigger hole to accept the bigger diameter socket and
WALLAA.. look good as new!
while your at the store, pick up 6 of them and do the front turn signals too!!
Brian

shineybike · 09-26-2005, 09:20 AM

Where exactly are the grounding straps for the rear lights? I'm facing the same repair. I have scoped out some replacement sockets at Napa that I think will work.

Verdoro 68 · 09-26-2005, 02:32 PM

The ground straps are 1/2" strips of metal that run from the bulb sockets to the bumper bracket. They have a black plastic sheath over them to prevent rubbing on the harness and there are two per side. I think it's a GTO-only item because LeMans tail light housings are metal and ground out by default. GTO housings need them because they are fiberglass. Attached is the best pic I could find. I highlighted the straps in red.

h0trod389 · 09-26-2005, 07:01 PM

neither my 68 lemans nor my 68 tempest has grounding straps for the rear assembly, its already grounded to the chassis.

the light socket should be the type that self grounds also, unless you would rather have a wire for a ground.

Brian

shineybike · 09-28-2005, 09:44 AM

Thanks for the info and photo, both were very helpful. I have a Lemans, so I guess I don't have them.

shineybike · 09-30-2005, 09:02 AM

I'm in the process of replacing my passenger side sockets. I removed the two outside sockets. The tail light housing socket openings are about 3/4 inch diameter. Napa sells 3/4 inch replacement metal sockets (Echlin) for the 1157 bulbs. They snap in place, but I'll use some JB Weld to make sure they don't come off. Clip the wires and join the new sockets to the existing wiring harness. Shrink tube the wires connections and hopefully I'll be all set. I'll have to update the progress when it's done. Probably finish this weekend.

shineybike · 10-02-2005, 05:42 PM

Well the tail light repair is complete on my '68 Lemans. Here are the details. Keep in mind this is a driver. I removed the old sockets by carefully uncrimping the edge from the inside that holds the socket in the housing. Took a little cursing, but they finally came out. I pulled the original boot off the back of the sockets and slid it down the wires. Cut the wires close to the old socket. The new sockets i used were from Napa, made by Echlin, part #LS6242, about 3/4 inch diameter to be pretty close to the size of the housing opening. They have the little clips around the open end of the socket to be able to snap into the hole. Two black wires and a soft rubber-like shield over the wires. I cut the rubber-like shield to within about 1/4 inch of the end of the socket and slipped the original boot on. It fits nicely on the end of the new socket. I connected the wires using crimp-type wire connectors and sealed them with shrink tubing. Make sure you pay attention to the wire colors and where they are in relation to the two little pins on the 1157 bulbs that lock in to the socket. On mine the green wire was to the right when the deeper pin was in back as you look at the housing. I got them switched the first time..^%$&^$%. The hole in the housing is slightly curved in toward the inside of the housing and this kept the socket clips from fitting snugly. Also, when the socket is inserted, the little clips that hold it in place get pushed slightly inward and prevent the bulb from fitting. I used JB Weld to secure the sockets. Once they were dry I carefully bent the socket clips outward so the bulb would fit. You could also cut them off beforehand, but they were helful in centering the socket for the JB Weld part. I placed a little bearing grease inside the rubber boots and inside the sockets so the wires and contacts would slide better. Don't forget to check your handy work before remounting the bumper. When doing this, don't forget the sockets have to be grounded to metal (I think). I also cleaned the inside of the housing and painted it with a gold-ish anodized paint I bought at Napa. It's all mounted and working great. Hope this helps anyone in this situation.

aitstra · 10-02-2005, 10:53 PM

I had kind of a rot thing going on on my housings. They were real fragile. I used POR 15 silver on them 2 coats - the first coat soaked in in places! This restored the strength, and then I found some tan spray paint that pretty closely duplicated the origional color. I was able to use my existing sockets, I sprayed a bunch of CLR in them to remove the corrosion and used green scotchbrite pads to clean em up. They look good... I had to try because the wiring harness was otherwise perfect.

speedshopmike · 10-07-2005, 11:49 PM

what the hell is with these housings that makes them such junk???
if anyone has any decent ones, mine are usable but shot and i'd like bettter ones....
the por15 thing is a great idea; im gonna try it

Ron Landis · 10-09-2005, 09:50 AM

The '68 and '69 housings are nothing alike. In 69, the housings were plastic composite and ground straps were necessary. Moot point, I guess, since we're dealing with '68s here. Just don't want anyone getting confused on this issue. Good ground straps are imperitive on a '69. Never done '68s, but a metal housing should ground itself to the body, one would think. Good luck.

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