[70RAIII]

I have a 1970 GTO with original suspension components except new coils springs and shocks. I've been experience severe rear wheel hop under hard acceleration. I've read online that it's the bushing that cause this problem. I'm really not looking forward to dropping the rear end out to change all the bushing but if that's the solution then that's what I'll do but I start I was wondering if there was anything else I could check/replace first. Thanks

[Rob B]

4 Speed cars have the extra anti hop arms/bars on the rear housing for that purpose. Does your car have them?

['ol Pinion head]

Actually, 4spd A-bodys did not have anti hop bars, just stamped steel diagonal frame braces which were first introduced in late '65 model to combat the twisting and eventual cracking of the frame crossmember.

make sure when you replace worn rubber bushing that you do not use the polyurethane replacements in the upper control arms or in the rear end center housing. Such poly bushings contribute to binding. what shocks are currently under the rear of the car?

[rustedgoat]

It's really not that difficult to do. Best way is to pickup some used boxed arms and rebuild them yourself or just buy new ones aftermarket or oem style.

[70RAIII]

I'm going to look under and see if I have the braces. The shocks are Monroe Sensatrac.

Does anybody have a trick on getting the bushings out of the differential housing. The only way I know is to drill and pick out the rubber then crush out the sleeve. I figure there must be an easier way.

[rohrt]

I did mine with a small section of PVC pipe and a ball joint press from Autozone. If I had the funds I would just get some boxed aftermarket ones. Way more solid then the stamped ones.

[HWYSTR455]

If your not concerned with originality, go boxed aftermarket, and you can swap a side at a time with minimal effort. You can have it all done in an afternoon, easy.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/68-72-GTO-Ch...922b13&vxp=mtr

If you want the braces, you can get matching ones:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/68-72-Chevel...b0148b&vxp=mtr

Drop the rear by removing the shocks with the car on a lift or jack stands. Remove one upper arm, and with a BFH, hit that biotch and it will pop right out. Clean the ear up with some sand paper and beat the new one in. If your a little gun shy, you can use a c-clamp press. Some auto parts stores will lend or rent tools, and a on-car ball joint press works great.

OTC has them cheap if you want one for your arsenal:

http://www.amazon.com/OTC-7249-U-Joi.../dp/B0002SRGXY

If you wanted, you could buy it, and sell it after you're done.

Ditch the shocks, they're junk. Bilstiens are inexpensive for the quality, and they last a long time. Eshocks.com has them at a good price:

http://eshocks.com/bil_veh.asp?Model...=All&SubChar=Q

You can use PVC, but I generally use short pieces of exhaust tubing, you can get sections at the auto parts store. You shouldn't need it if you use the ball joint press/tool.

The difference after you do replace the control arms, bushings, and shocks is so dramatic, you will want to do something with the front. You won't regret the investment in time, effort, and money.

.

[goatless]

...and then after you've done all of that and you still have the wheel-hop issue, install these-



http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/hal-5213

[70RAIII]

Thanks for all the great info. I really appreciate it!

[leeklm]

Originally Posted by goatless

...and then after you've done all of that and you still have the wheel-hop issue, install these-



http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/hal-5213

x2

I fought with hop in my 66 until installing the no-hop bars. Immediately took care of the problem

[tpssonic]

X3 on my '68.